Duel zone heating control setup

[bigrinks]

Hi all. I'm mid way through updating a 20 year old heating system replacing rads and pipes from micro ore to plastic. Large house so set up two 22mm arterial branches feeding upstairs and downstairs circuit.

The idea is to connect both 22mm circuits via a 3 way moterisied valve and operate the valve via the programmer. Would like two thermostats, one for each zone.

im at the point to making the connection to stick in the zone valve which I can operate in the short term using a basic toggle switch.

can anyone advise of a controller, double thermostat setup that would meet my intended system operation?

 

[joni os]

Would it not simplify things to use 2, two way motorized valves,one for each zone, paired with appropriate room stats.

 

[bigrinks]

Hi Joni. Thanks for the reply. It would but it would mean that in some cases both valves would be open together. What I was trying to achieve is operating each circuit separately. Whilst you can get programmers on the market that have more than one thermostat they only operate a single valve. What I think I need is a programmer that talks to two thermostats and as two zones with two valves and can be configured each zone separately.

 

[snowhead]

As above you only need 2 port valves.

If you want completely independent timed control of each zone use a programmable thermostat and 2 port valve for each zone.
If you want the same times for each zone a standard programmer will do.

Personally I'd always use Programmable thermostats.

 

[AWheating]

Better off with zone valves and programable stats, wireless if you don't want to run cables everywhere. Make sure you fit an auto bypass.

 

[Gez2312]

I'd agree with that more versatility with 2x 2 port valves rather than one three port. At least you can run upstairs without downstairs or vice versa !

 

[bigrinks]

Update. I've now plumbed in two Honeywell moterised valves(5 wire) with end switch. One for each of my two heating zones. I've bought a eph sauter 3 zone wireless programmer with wireless 2 thermostats. With the plumbing done I can operate each zone by manually opening each valve. Now the tricky bit. I tried a s plan wiring layout on a test circuit and it works fine. Both end switches trigger the boiler to fire once valve is open. Problem is that the boiler has a overrun feature which I can not see how this can work with the end switches as the valve when closed won't allow the overrun to complete. Thoughts on how to deal with this seemingly last issue?

 

[jonnyswamp]

Auto bypass

 

[Worcester]

That's why you need the auto bypass installed before the 2 x zone valves.
The zone valves send a call to heat to the boiler and the boiler controls the pump.
Just go to the honeywell site and download the wiring diagrams.

http://www.honeywelluk.com/documents/All/pdf/Wiring Guide Issue 16.pdf

 

[lame plumber]

And thats why using a decent plumber saves time and money in the long term

 

[bigrinks]

Thanks for the advice. I fitted a non adjustable rad in each circuit in substitution to the auto bypass. This seemed acceptable as per the boiler manual..

I have a manually adjustable (wheeled) valve betwee main flow and return 22mm. I guess for balancing. Could be easily swapped out for the a bypass.

Thanks.

 

[lame plumber]

Pity your design doesnt meet building regs requirements!

 

[stani]

Are your non adjustable radiators on each circuit after the zone valves?

 

[bigrinks]

The zone control valves are located about 3m from boiler on main f/r. I have a 15mm branch to two rads just before the valves. So no the non controlled rads act as bypass.


The system is 20 years old and doesn't meet current standards.

What would the wheeled valve be about 2m from boiler(so right place for bypass)? Bridges f/r and looks like a red wheeled valve. Certainly not a bypass.