A
Aquarius
Thought I’d divert from hijacking the other thread 😁
I quite often fit class 2 wireless thermostats, sometimes battery thermostats (so just live and switched), and often Honeywell T6360 thermostats.
Questions if I may? (Can’t remember if I’ve asked on here before)
On the class 2 wireless thermostats, which usually take their load from the boiler or a fcu, do I still need to provide the cpc if it’s not connected at either end? I’m told from our electrician’s that I’m to provide the cpc, but leave the it not connected, but so it can be checked?
On the battery thermostats - not sure how I maintain the earth continuity? I presume this is connected elsewhere?
On the Honeywell’s I park the cpc, which is fine. If I’m replacing like for like, do i need to do any testing? The reason being, when I replace a pcb, I usually check the earth loop using my Martindale ez650.
Many thanks.
I quite often fit class 2 wireless thermostats, sometimes battery thermostats (so just live and switched), and often Honeywell T6360 thermostats.
Questions if I may? (Can’t remember if I’ve asked on here before)
On the class 2 wireless thermostats, which usually take their load from the boiler or a fcu, do I still need to provide the cpc if it’s not connected at either end? I’m told from our electrician’s that I’m to provide the cpc, but leave the it not connected, but so it can be checked?
On the battery thermostats - not sure how I maintain the earth continuity? I presume this is connected elsewhere?
On the Honeywell’s I park the cpc, which is fine. If I’m replacing like for like, do i need to do any testing? The reason being, when I replace a pcb, I usually check the earth loop using my Martindale ez650.
Many thanks.