Edwardian tap head - internal spline worn. Advice please

[Geoff Taylor]

I have an original Edwardian bath with a tap mixer in the wall. Until recently this all functioned perfectly. Recently though the cold tap has started to slip on the valve spline. By swapping the cold and hot tap heads I know it is the cold tap internal spline that is worn.
I don't want to replace the original with modern taps so is there any repair than can be done to the tap internal spline. Advice please - photo attached

 

[Ric2013]

Splines like that on a 110 year old tap? Really? I really think that is likely to be a relatively modern tap.

Well, I'm sure a long-lasting workaround (same as a bodge, but if it works, it's okay) could be made, but I think you're not far from needing someone with engineering skills to fabricate parts for that.

I don't think you'll be likely to find an easy fix, to be brutally honest.

 

[Geoff Taylor]

I have an original Edwardian bath with a tap mixer in the wall. Until recently this all functioned perfectly. Recently though the cold tap has started to slip on the valve spline. By swapping the cold and hot tap heads I know it is the cold tap internal spline that is worn.
I don't want to replace the original with modern taps so is there any repair than can be done to the tap internal spline. Advice please - photo attached

View attachment 34662

Definitely the original. It's a family house passed down over the generations.

 

[steadyon]

1. The engineering route:
1a. Identify diameter and number of splines of male shaft.
1b. Turn, mill, cut teeth and harden broach.
1c. Bore out existing tap head.
1d. Insert and fix brass rod. No heating to preserve chrome finish, so shrink fit or a screw inserted in joint under tap head.
1e. Drill brass rod.
1f. Use broach in press (vice?) to create new splines.

2. The bodge route.
2a. Drill out existing splines oversize.
2b. Grease male spindle.
2c. Mix up and apply epoxy (metal filled) to hole in tap head.
2d. Fit tap head to spindle and hold in correct place until epoxy cured.
2e. Tap off handle, clean up excess epoxy, refit.

 

[Geoff Taylor]

Many thanks very helpful.

 

[Best]

That looks like a more modern ‘old style’ tap head. Even the shape of the spokes look modern.
I have never seen an old tap with splines.
What do the works look like?
Could you post a photo of the works only, with the head removed?
(Not saying this is what happened here, but often work is done many years ago and new parts fitted and people forget. I have had people telling me that modern parts were original old parts from an era I know they hadn’t yet been invented)

 

[Gasmk1]

I would have thought an old tap would have a square head not splined also the tap handle thinner than that one

 

[Best]

I would have thought an old tap would have a square head not splined also the tap handle thinner than that one

+1 for above ^^
The head looks like the modern fat handles in every way

 

[Ric2013]

For clarification to the OP, what I think some people are suggesting is that the original tap may have been repaired using modern parts. (If so, this would make it entirely reasonable to do the same again).

 

[Welder]

Personally, it doesn't look like an original. How heavy is the head alone? That alone will tell you.

What I would advise, is to drill & tap 2 x M4 holes (on opposite sides) through wall into spindle void under the handle 'lugs'. I'd then use M4 cup point grub screws to hold it.

HOWEVER. If it's a 'traditional' mechanism this will not last because the stress of closing such valves off is 4-6 times that needed to close a ceramic disc type.

My preference would be to convert to CD type valves and then do as I said. We've done it lots of times and it works perfectly so long as your water system is compatible (i.e. not very low pressure).

HTH