Electric shower swap

[Ian Howe]

Gonna replace a faulty Triton Safeguard + in my rental property, was gonna change like for like until I noticed the price. Why is a Safeguard + £300 when I can get another, say a Triton T80 10.5 for less than £150?

 

[John.g]

Because they have a form of thermostatic control to maintain the selected temperature and also to limit the maximum desired temperature.

 

[Ian Howe]

Because they have a form of thermostatic control to maintain the selected temperature and also to limit the maximum desired temperature.

So if there's only one person living in the house and no chance of anyone flushing the loo or turning a tap on would you go for a cheaper one?

 

[John.g]

Yes, I would go for the T80 but check out a few items first.

Ensure that the shower you are replacing is a mains supplied shower and not supplied from the cold water storage tank (CWST), if supplied from the CWST it will have its own integral pump and should be replaced with a T90 which is also CWST supplied and also has its own integral pump and will be un affected by any mains pressure changes.

If the shower is mains supplied then the T80 is the replacement but IMO requires 2.5 bar minimum static downstairs to provide 1.5 bar dynamic upstairs if the shower if installed here.

Also, a 10.5kw shower will require 10 M2 cable, the existing shower may have 6 M2 and only suitable for a 9/9.5kw shower.

 

[king of pipes]

As above Thermostatic control with reliable water temperature delivery, a T80 easi fit will be ok as a replacement just match the kw output of the Triton safe unit 10.5 kw maybe a bit high for your electric supply , 8.5 kw is the norm . Kop

 

[Ian Howe]

Yes, I would go for the T80 but check out a few items first.

Ensure that the shower you are replacing is a mains supplied shower and not supplied from the cold water storage tank (CWST), if supplied from the CWST it will have its own integral pump and should be replaced with a T90 which is also CWST supplied and also has its own integral pump and will be un affected by any mains pressure changes.

If the shower is mains supplied then the T80 is the replacement but IMO requires 2.5 bar minimum static downstairs to provide 1.5 bar dynamic upstairs if the shower if installed here.

Also, a 10.5kw shower will require 10 M2 cable, the existing shower may have 6 M2 and only suitable for a 9/9.5kw shower.

Thanks for the info, shower is downstairs and comes from mains, electrician ran a new cable in last year was a huge thing but I'll check with him. Spec on the 9.5kw shower says 3.9tlts and 1bar min where the 10kw has 1.5bar minimum. What's the chances of a one floor cottage having less than 1.5bar or should I check it beforehand?

 

[JCplumb]

Check it beforehand. Sparkys can be tight with cable and generally won't oversize, so it's likely he put the right cable in for the wattage of shower you have now, not a higher one.

 

[Ian Howe]

Check it beforehand. Sparkys can be tight with cable and generally won't oversize, so it's likely he put the right cable in for the wattage of shower you have now, not a higher one.

Will check but I'm sure he up rated from the original cable, paid £60 for a roll.

 

[John.g]

Thanks for the info, shower is downstairs and comes from mains, electrician ran a new cable in last year was a huge thing but I'll check with him. Spec on the 9.5kw shower says 3.9tlts and 1bar min where the 10kw has 1.5bar minimum. What's the chances of a one floor cottage having less than 1.5bar or should I check it beforehand?

Downstairs is worth 0.5 bar but no harm in checking if you have a pressure gauge, also in the summer, a 10 kw shower will have to flow 5.7 LPM to give a showering temp of 40C from mains at 15C., the thermal cut out (TCO) would operate (48C) at 4.3 LPM from 15C. If the old shower, even broken, can still flow water you could turn it to its coldest setting (temp control) and see what it flows, any 9 or 10 kw shower should flow 8 to 10 LPM on the coldest setting.