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demiano

Hi, i'm new to this forum and hoping for advice on my CH setup.
It's my first personal heating system so my knowledge base is lacking, but I tried to be as much involved in installation process as possible :)

The setup for my central heating:
- WB Greenstar 15i condensing boiler (Greenstar 15i System - Worcester, Bosch Group UK homeowner site)
- WB FW100 weather compensating controller (FW100 Weather compensation controller - Worcester, Bosch Group UK homeowner site)

Heating is delivered mainly by underfloor heating and 3 rads in bedrooms (house is brand new, well insulated and quite small - 1100 sq feet) I've set "heating" interval temperature to 20 degrees and "saving" interval temperature to 17 degrees. Outside temp. recently is something around +3 degrees daily average. Max flow temperature is set to 60 degrees.

My concern is that the boiler is approaching the set temperature but never reaching it and burner is constantly on (while on "heating" interval of daily programme). I understand that burner can only modulate down to 35 degrees flow temp. And while it's still quite warm outside, demanded flow temperature is shown only 27-30 degrees (by controller). Boiler sticks to that temp (displayed on boiler showing actual flow temperature). It seems to me that boiler is wasting gas, trying to stay on all the time by any means, because it simply can't modulate less than 35 degrees (it even turns off the pump sometimes, but burner is still on). Shouldn't it just reach designated room temp and turn off, wait till it drops, say 1 degree, and then turn on again? Room temp is staying 0,5 degrees lower than set temp (if set at 20, boiler keeps it at 19-19,5, constantly burning gas and not reaching 20 seemingly on purpose). When programme switches to "saving" interval, it turns off and cools down (though usually room temp drops only 1-2 degrees during this interval until next heating phase comes, so boiler stays off for several hours). So I "solve" this problem by adding shorter heating intervals in the programme, but it seems to me as dumb work-around for a decently smart system. It's kinda annoying that boiler works that way, because having a decently insulated house i'd like to see boiler heating up rooms to, say 21 degrees, and turning off untill it cools down to 19,5 (it would take at least 1-2 hours, not just a few minutes) so average of 20 degrees is maintained during "heating" phase. Gas usage isn't big, but if it can be smaller - i don't mind :D
Is something wrong with my setup and/or controller settings or that's how this boiler is supposed to operate, is this more energy efficient or something?

Explanations and advices will be much appreciated!
 
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My understanding with this controller is you must have the integral diverter valve.

I was informed by a Worcester trainer that you cant have zone control with the integral diverter valve and the weather compensator!

How are you controlling the under-floor heating ?
 
Thanks for quick response.
If IDV is optional, then i haven't got it fitted in my boiler. I have a photo made just after installation, almost finished, so i put it here with some comments, hope it will clarify things:
1111111.jpg
As
As you can see there's a 3-way valve installed on a return pipe from underfloor return collector. Valve is controlled by stat head with capilarry thermosensor attached to return collector and insulated from room influence (Thermostatic head K with contact or immersion sensor). Kinda simple and primitive solution i guess. I've set the stat on 3-way valve at ~23 degrees, so when return temp on collector reaches this value the valve is closed (cut off the "main heating circle") and water is circulated by pump (constantly on) around underfloor heating pipes until return temp drops below 23 degrees. Meanwhile radiators are still allowed to be heated more. As the house is on a small size, i don't really need diversified zome control - just one temp for all house is enough. It's possible to control underfloor heating by adjusting flow-through to each of piping "loops" on the collector. Basically, all the boiler "knows" there is only 1 type of CH. Everything else is done beyond it's control.

Anyway, I don't quite understand how is that relevant to boiler burner not turning off in the first place?


P.S. I think i've been mistaken about IDV. It is probably preinstalled in my boiler (i forgot to mention, that boiler is not exactly "WB Greenstar CDi", but eastern Europe equivalent "Junkers ZSB14" - i thought they are same thing, but seems not...) Here's what's shown in my installation manual:
Clipboard01.jpg
Number 16 is called "3-way valve", number 18 - valve motor, so i guess this is the IDV, right?
 

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And because of that pic demiano " I am Out"

Please tell me that is fitted outside the UK :63:
 
Looks to me like a com pipe fitter on a sat morn fiddle
 
HEHEHEHEHEHEHE :rofl: :rofl: That pic has to be a joke surely? I hope you didn't pay someone to pipe this up? You had to do it yoursef for sure? That is TOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooo funny!!!

:rofl:
 
very good job ! I am sureis not in UK , very need install but no clips so pipe work not suported ! not safe !
 
Note To Self

Do not reply to a question on a Sunday Evening ??

I really thought I could help this guy, his links worked and everything.

Ps I was correct in my replies !!
 
And a shower hose for a gas pipe. Quality stuff which i'm sure is not to the regs anywhere in europe.

On looking again it looks like the stainless flexi stuff.
 
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i will ask my dad tommorow ,he will know about it

as i think this is how it gets done but will post tommorow
 
i have enough trouble keeping dirty hand marks of the condensate pipe work must be a nightmare working in all white plastic
 
First of all, i'm very disappointed in this forum. No replies concerning my question, no matter how much info i give. Yeah, making jokes is very "proffessional" :D No, this setup is not in UK and btw, that "shower hose" is a heavy duty flexible stainless steel hose provided by gas supplier (nobody else is allowed to install gas lines)...
 
First of all, i'm very disappointed in this forum. No replies concerning my question, no matter how much info i give. Yeah, making jokes is very "proffessional" :D No, this setup is not in UK and btw, that "shower hose" is a heavy duty flexible stainless steel hose provided by gas supplier (nobody else is allowed to install gas lines)...

Are you saying this is legal where you are demiano? Where are you?
 
First of all, i'm very disappointed in this forum. No replies concerning my question, no matter how much info i give. Yeah, making jokes is very "proffessional" :D No, this setup is not in UK and btw, that "shower hose" is a heavy duty flexible stainless steel hose provided by gas supplier (nobody else is allowed to install gas lines)...
 
yep you've said that already :)

If I may .. lets take aside the amount of plastic yeh .. can you explain the open ended pipe sticking out and the strange set up with the pump shown? is that the UFH pump?
 
open ended pipe - not yet connected condensate drain. pump is UFH circulation pump. everything is explained in my second post.
 
demanio
Im back in for a while, how is your FW100 Weather compensation controller wired in ? might be an issue here.
 
It's wired just as it should be (as shown in fw100 manual), nothing to mess up there - 2 wires from roomstat and 2 wires from outside sensor. I suspect the problem is not with installation but with settings...
 
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