External Tap project?

[MrBusagain]

Hi all, first post on the forum, appreciate all your help and advice, so many thanks in advance gents... and lasses!

About to fit an external bib tap outside my Kitchen tomorrow but am a little confused/concerned about the wall plate elbow I have been provided with...

You see the water inlet to the tap almost runs 'inline' with the wall plate, thus only giving me about 1cm gap between 15mm copper pipe and the wall!!! Is this normal, and if so, how can I be expected to lag/insulate the inlet pipe and protect it from the cold this winter. Surely I am not epected to drain the water through the DC Valve every time I am finished using the garden tap during the winter months to prevent potential pipe bursts?

Secindly, I have nticed that the directional indicator on my 'in line' isolation valve has an arrow to indicate flow. How important is this to fit the right way, as the isolation valve appears geometrically identical at either end/ Confused...

Any advice?

 

[stevetheplumber]

if you need to insulate mount the tap on a block of wood or leave tight and build a boxing round it ball type valves go either way stop cocks only one way

 

[MrBusagain]

Steve, when you say 'boxing'... what exactly do you mean mate. Wooden boxing or plastic? still a little confused buddy (thanks for clearing up the isolation valve query, I susepcted water direction was irrelevant in the ball valves.. many thanks!)

 

[WHPES]

You should also have a double check valve fitted between the mains and the tap to comply with water regulations.

 

[REDSAW]

Hi all, first post on the forum, appreciate all your help and advice, so many thanks in advance gents... and lasses!

About to fit an external bib tap outside my Kitchen tomorrow but am a little confused/concerned about the wall plate elbow I have been provided with...

You see the water inlet to the tap almost runs 'inline' with the wall plate, thus only giving me about 1cm gap between 15mm copper pipe and the wall!!! Is this normal, and if so, how can I be expected to lag/insulate the inlet pipe and protect it from the cold this winter. Surely I am not epected to drain the water through the DC Valve every time I am finished using the garden tap during the winter months to prevent potential pipe bursts?

Secindly, I have nticed that the directional indicator on my 'in line' isolation valve has an arrow to indicate flow. How important is this to fit the right way, as the isolation valve appears geometrically identical at either end/ Confused...

Any advice?

welcome to the forum

plastick boxing ok.
check valve could be in bib tap.
some b/v narrow dia in one end

 

[Winston]

Still need a check valve, taps with the valve in arent compliant to the regs.

 

[WOLDEN]

you can buy outside tap jackets , from any DIY store .

 

[WaterTight]

Might the ball valve be a check valve? Was it supplied with the kit or were you sold it to use with the kit by a merchant? Either way, if it has an arrow might as well put it so the water flows in arrowed direction just in case.

You could prob lag a pipe 10mm from a wall anyway couldn't you? Possibly even bung lagging on pipe before connecting it up? Then it'll squeeze up against wall. Or you can prob buy some spray on lagging or something.

 

[WHPES]

The check valve doesn't have a screw slot for isolation. It usually has a hex cap along the length

see Google Image Result for http://www.genesis7.co.uk/images/double%20check%20valve.jpg

Check valve in the bib tap is only for replacement of taps for existing installations.

Always fit in the direction of the arrow. Would not make any difference when open but ball valves are designed to sit against the seals when closed and when water pressure is behind.

 

[MrBusagain]

You should also have a double check valve fitted between the mains and the tap to comply with water regulations.

Cheers WHPES.

Have fitted a dcv straight after the isolation valve to comply with 'water regs' etc. My bib tap was the 'cheapo' model without any check valves.

welcome to the forum

plastick boxing ok.
check valve could be in bib tap.
some b/v narrow dia in one end

Thanks RedSaw34.

Have been to B&Q today, but could only find thin plastic trunking (conduit style) for the 15mm pipework. This trunking apperaed to made for indoor pipework, and I suspect it would be useless in insulating my external pipe to the bib tap from the cold.

Whad'ya reckon mate?

Still need a check valve, taps with the valve in arent compliant to the regs.

Thanks Winston. Have fitted a DCV after the isolation valve under the sink.

you can buy outside tap jackets , from any DIY store .

Cheers Wolden, popped into B&Q today, but no jackets of anysort to be found! When you say 'tapjacket' am I to assume you are referring to insulation for the tap alone, or associated pipework. To be honest mate, I am more concerned about the 30cm of 15mm pipe which leads down the wall from the exit hole to the tap. This small section is exposed to the elements at the minute, and cannot be lagged as the pipe is only a few millimetres from the wall and is very tight to it to be honest.

As the others have suggested, I suspect 'boxing off' the pipe should do the trick... fingers crossed!!

Might the ball valve be a check valve? Was it supplied with the kit or were you sold it to use with the kit by a merchant? Either way, if it has an arrow might as well put it so the water flows in arrowed direction just in case.

You could prob lag a pipe 10mm from a wall anyway couldn't you? Possibly even bung lagging on pipe before connecting it up? Then it'll squeeze up against wall. Or you can prob buy some spray on lagging or something.

Cheers Watertight. The isloation valve I have fitted is basically a standard cheap isolation valve, operated by 1/4 turn via flatblade, which roates the ball valve in the housing. I mistakenly forgot to check the body for a water flow indicator and only noticed it after installation. Really don't to want to re-install, which is why I posed the question about water flow direction in the first place. I honestly cannot see why there is a flow indictor stamped on the body as the housing is identical both ends, both inside the valve and outside!!! Hmmm.....

Reference the lagging issue, I think l I was being generous in quoting a 10mm clearance between wall and pipe...more like 5mm mate! That B&Q lagging is thick as hell, and would never squeeze into gap. Plus, I don't want to put any undue stress on the pipe ( us DIY'ers aren't all cowboys you know!!! LOL )

PS. Does 'spray lagging/insulation' exist? If so, I reeeeeeally want some!!

MrB

The check valve doesn't have a screw slot for isolation. It usually has a hex cap along the length

see Google Image Result for http://www.genesis7.co.uk/images/double%20check%20valve.jpg

Check valve in the bib tap is only for replacement of taps for existing installations.

Always fit in the direction of the arrow. Would not make any difference when open but ball valves are designed to sit against the seals when closed and when water pressure is behind.

Yep, WHPES, my DCV does have a hex cap along its length, does this or can this act as the 'drain cock' for my tap in really cold weather... like now for example...LOL!

The check valve doesn't have a screw slot for isolation. It usually has a hex cap along the length

see Google Image Result for http://www.genesis7.co.uk/images/double%20check%20valve.jpg

Check valve in the bib tap is only for replacement of taps for existing installations.

Always fit in the direction of the arrow. Would not make any difference when open but ball valves are designed to sit against the seals when closed and when water pressure is behind.

That settles it then WHPES, I will change the valve around then buddy! Don't want to cause any unneccessary pressure build up on these seals!! many thanks mate.

MrB.

 

[stevetheplumber]

easy way to lag is screw a pice of half round gutter to th wall and fill with filler foam

 

[MrBusagain]

easy way to lag is screw a pice of half round gutter to th wall and fill with filler foam

Sounds promising Steve... might give that a go when it stops snowing here in Norfolk!! Cheers...

 

[WHPES]

If you undo the hex cap on the DCV, the thing will fall to bits!.

In freezing weather, close the isolation valve inside the house and open the tap and leave it open to avoid any build up of pressure should residual water freeze.

 

[MrBusagain]

If you undo the hex cap on the DCV, the thing will fall to bits!.

In freezing weather, close the isolation valve inside the house and open the tap and leave it open to avoid any build up of pressure should residual water freeze.

Hi again WHPES!... and thanks for reply.

Have plumbed the DCV in such a manner that I cant get to the hex cap that easily anyway.. doh!! However, draining the water in the system via the DCV will only drain the water on the 'Kitchen side' as I have plumbed my external pipe to the tap in an upwards direction... So even when I open the tap with the isolation valve closed, I will always have a small amount of trapped static water (my horizontal 'pipe run' through the wall slopes downwards towards garden side). Fortunately, I have lagged, and thermal wrapped this small section of external exposed pipe (about 30cm long) and am hoping the bitter winter will be forgiving!!!

MrB

 

[WHPES]

Should normally be OK just to leave the outside tap open over winter.