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Hi,
I am in the process of replacing a 22mm gate vale on the cold water feed to a shower. I had to cut the gate valve off because I just couldn't unscrew it , no matter how hard I tried.
In the process of fitting the new ball valve, I have found that the pipe is a few cm short and does not go into the ball valve at all. As a result I can just about about screw it tight. This really makes me uneasy.
What will you recommend to make this pipe a little longer? Also should I use jointing compound on the compression fittings?

Thank you .
 
Hi,
I am in the process of replacing a 22mm gate vale on the cold water feed to a shower. I had to cut the gate valve off because I just couldn't unscrew it , no matter how hard I tried.
In the process of fitting the new ball valve, I have found that the pipe is a few cm short and does not go into the ball valve at all. As a result I can just about about screw it tight. This really makes me uneasy.
What will you recommend to make this pipe a little longer? Also should I use jointing compound on the compression fittings?

Thank you .

be-like-bill-plumber-uneasy.jpg
 
You are confusing me with Gate valve then Ball valve in your post but if you cut the pipe to remove the gate valve then you shouldn`t be surprised the pipe is now too short.

Somewhere you have to add a straight coupler and use a new length of pipe to reach the valve.
 
You are confusing me with Gate valve then Ball valve in your post but if you cut the pipe to remove the gate valve then you shouldn`t be surprised the pipe is now too short.

Somewhere you have to add a straight coupler and use a new length of pipe to reach the valve.

Thanks rpm. sorry i meant to say I was replacing a gate valve with a ball valve. I will need to solder with the straight coupler won't I? Is there an alternative without soldering?
Cheers
 
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Thanks rpm. sorry i meant to say I was replacing a gate valve with a ball valve.

Does the ball valve have a lever to turn the water off or is it a screwdriver slot type?
 
You need the pipe to fully engage so you're right to be uneasy. Easiest thing is cut the pipe back further and cut a new length of pipe. Then use a compression coupler at one end and the lever valve at the other to make up the gap. Yes use compound
 
Any more advice please?

See you`ve edited and added about soldering now. If your not confident in your ability and the straight connecter will be on show not hidden away then a compression fitting is what most DIYERs use. My view is that no tape or paste should be required but views do differ on this subject.
 
See you`ve edited and added about soldering now. If your not confident in your ability and the straight connecter will be on show not hidden away then a compression fitting is what most DIYERs use. My view is that no tape or paste should be required but views do differ on this subject.
to be honest RPM I'm inclined to agree re paste but i say use it as its all bases covered should something go wrong in a DIY project
 
to be honest RPM I'm inclined to agree re paste but i say use it as its all bases covered should something go wrong in a DIY project

lol. Well I did say views vary, I use a couple or wraps of ptfe tape on the olive if it`s an old joint I`ve separated but nothing on new, each to there own.
 
If the Pipe is slighlty short you will need to cut in and add a straight either compression or solder and a short bit of pipe,

as to jointing compound as Rpm says you shouldnt need any on a new joint, although i always use a smear of lsx on my joints as its belt and braces stops any potential leak if the pipe gets knocked
 
If the Pipe is slighlty short you will need to cut in and add a straight either compression or solder and a short bit of pipe,

as to jointing compound as Rpm says you shouldnt need any on a new joint, although i always use a smear of lsx on my joints as its belt and braces stops any potential leak if the pipe gets knocked

or leaks because of cheap fittings
 
If short length of tube not available, consider repair coupler, which is longer than normal compression fitting. It also helps if gap between pipes can not be moved apart to aid fitting.
Fit down flow of ball valve, then if leaks appear, 3 compression joints can be redone without turning off main.
 
My Favorite is when the cheap fittings nut wont fit onto the copper pipe

Yes and you have to file the brass nut a bit one of my pet hates cheap fittings
 
Use paste. V2 Lube is good, but you could buy cheaper pastes.
I wouldn't really want to even do a compression joint that was to be a temporary few weeks joint without paste.
Never seen a brass compression fitting that I could guarantee won't have slight weeps without paste. And it is so much easier to compress a fitting that has paste on olive, as less friction.
A microscopic leak you won't see, but you will see the corrosion on the fitting and pipe after a few months or years. A seized fitting is a result of this also.
 
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Always kept a couple of slip compression fittings in the van for those Sunday afternoon " my husband just punctured a pipe" calls.
 
I'm with best on the paste thing.
Best to use it as without it you may think joint is tight but actually may have an undetectable microscopic leak which only shows after a significant time.
 
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