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Discuss Flexi tap connectors in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

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adrian

Hi,
Just connected bath using flexi tap connectors(push fit).
There are no leaks,however i noticed that the cold connection after turning on the mains water pushed the plastic collar out.The hot water connection did not push the collar out.Is this normal.I think this may be due to difference in water pressure.
Any advice appreciated.
Thanks,
Ade
 
it is normal on mains pressure as the grip ring grabs the pipe.
i like to give it a final push tho.

bearing in mind they are not that reliable. i have one that blew a few weeks ago on a new build emptying the 150litre cylinder (on the hot side) into her upstairs bathroom while she was asleep. i didn't fit it
i am going to post the flexi some time when i get round to it.
make sure you have easy access later just incase?.:eek:
 
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I've worked for companies who wil not use flexi connectors. They use bent copper pipe connections.

I suppose they are right in a way, as the semi rigid pipe probably helps to hold the bath head/tap head steady.
 
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I prefer the flexi's with compression connectors and the ball o fix built in, though to be fair the push fit ones are handy.
 
Not really a fan of flexi's, only use them when they are the pratical option. M10 and M12 with compression ends for basin mixers and compression ball-o-fix for flush to wall toilets. Baths never, start of the decade use to watch plumbers bulk buying at the yards, dont see that no more, mostly D.I.Y and "bathroom fitters".
 
I have a box in the van full of every kind of flexi but I only use one if absolutely neccessary like if I'm pushed for time, say on the back pipe of the bath.

On things like monoblocks, I save the rigid copper tails if fitting on ceramic and use them on stainless steel sinks to limit movement, I also use a ply brace.

I like the copper flexi's, made from 15mm pipe (slightly thinner wall?) that have a spiral machined on its length for easy bending, picked up some 22mm ones reduced to hell at .......................Homebase!! :eek:
 
Just picked up on a couple of comments above. I.e. guys saying they will only use flexi's where necessary, or on basins or specific situations.

Now bear with me.

Water, no matter how much pressure it is subjected to, has no conscience. It will not decide to leak, say on a connection to a bath tap, just because it might "think" the plumber has been lazy and then not leak on the back of a tricky sink or basin connection, out of sympathy for the plumber, because it was difficult to get in there to do a certain job. In short, if you don't like flexi's, or don't trust them then NEVER use them, and if you ever do use them, in any situation, no matter how difficult, don't condemn those who do use them routinely in any situation because at the end of the day they will either leak or they won't, regardless of anyones opinions of them.
 
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I am not a fan because of performance purposes, hence why I dont use them on baths. Certain toilets, where pipe work is hidden, lend themselves to flexi's as opposed to rigid pipe work. With basin mixers, ecspecially on vanity units, they are more practical. It does not mean I have to like them, nor does it lower my tolerence for seeing them on baths, ecspecially gravity fed.
 
Can some one explain to be why when putting in kitchen sink taps,w/c's,baths,sinks,radiators,ect I have never had the need to use a flexi hose and have never thought to my self,just the thing I need,even on cheap jobs,what am I doing wrong?
Flexi hose on system filling loop apart
 
The last few monobloc mixers I have fitted on kitchens sinks came supplied with 10/12 mm flexi's and the actual connection to the taps were specific to those connectors. Therefore, as I see it, I had no choice but to use the flexi's supplied.

I actually wanted to use rigid pipework since some of the stainless steel sinks are now so thin that the sink drainer area flexes around the bottom of the tap body but I could not (easily) find rigid connectors with the right size threads.

Also 1 (white) plastic kitchen sink, with matching white tap, was so flimsy when assembled it leant slightly under the weight of the tap body, thankfully both purchases were made by the client, all I had to do was install them, client was not entirely happy with what he had bought, and it wasn't all that cheap (£95 for sink alone £60 for tap).
 
we'll use flexis if supplied we fit a lot of kitchen taps and most are flexis even the expensive britas ones - problems on gravity fed if using them upstairs on monoblock - but given the choice its copper tap connectors everytime - even if when brought down its push fit there after.
 
i actually like them, but i dont think they are as good as they could be:eek:
 
i actually like them, but i dont think they are as good as they could be:eek:
i have no problem with them in the right place Trouble is there made to a price not a standard we were using flexis 25 years ago on the first tilting back wash basin imported for use in sasoons salons and the quality was such that they were never a problem even with the hard usage they got
I wonder why there not made like short washing machine hose as apart from when their mistreated i dont think ive seen oneof those fail espcially as theres 2 in most houses
 
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i have no problem with them in the right place Trouble is there made to a price not a standard we were using flexis 25 years ago on the first tilting back wash basin imported for use in sasoons salons and the quality was such that they were never a problem even with the hard usage they got
I wonder why there not made like short washing machine hose as apart from when their mistreated i dont think ive seen oneof those fail espcially as theres 2 in most houses

worked on a couple of those salons myself last year near brighton!
i also did a w/m hose about a year ago, it was like someone had stabbed at it with a needle but the only one i have seen altho plenty of leaking rubber washers and one snapped elbow. but i know what you mean/.
 
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