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Discuss FLUX in new system install - how to get rid in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

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James Rose

A full system install in a new build (4 weeks ago) and we are still getting turquoise flux in the tap filters etc....
how long does it take to get rid of this stuff? shouldn't the plumber get rid of this before he installs taps / showers etc.....
 
Needs to be flushed out with water. Plumber should of done it, but no regulations on it. Try both taps open on bath for 10-15 minutes. hopefully this will get rid.
 
As above, no reg on it, usually running the taps for a while will do the job, nothing else the plumber could have done, but run taps.
 
"The Byelaws state that every water system shall be flushed out before it is used.

This means every new installation, alteration, extension or any maintenance to existing installations is required to be thoroughly flushed to remove debris."

the quote above is taken from the Water Bye-Laws, so it is covered in the Regs, there is no way a properly fitted system still has flux in it after 4 weeks, get the plumber back to check it out, there was a very severe case a right few yrs ago where a plumbing contractor went out of business, granted the job was a biggie (hospital or care home etc) when the plumbers were dipping the pipe ends in the flux for speed/laziness, and the whole lot had to be ripped out and changed b another contractor
 
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I had this a few weeks ago and it wasn't due to flux ( I had used mapress).
It was due to an old main run in copper and the extra flow had caused the lining of the walls to break away. Cleared after about an hour of flushing and hasn't comeback since
 
James Rose, Would this turquoise looking stuff in the filters be little solid bits?

If so it is most likely to be insulation from the cylinder (if indeed you have one). This very often happens
when fitting an immersion heater without making sure bits dont drop in when cleaning the seating.

If that is the case then it is just a case of clearing the filters till the problem stops.

Worst case is if there are large pieces which can catch in isolating valves or narrow flexi pipes.
 
Kirkgas how do you flush out the hot and cold after fitting a new boiler or piping a bathroom??

before any showers or fittings are fitted a temp connection should be made and the water flushed through full bore, TBH on a properly fitted system the flux should be minimal, however i have seen people putting flux on the pipe with a shovel, then half filling the fittingd, no wonder their systems get polluted
 
But you do the same as all of us though, turn on the taps. I have never seen anybody flush out the water pipes. I have only ever done it when installing cold mains, due to pebbles in feeds to new build properties.
 
I have seen the very same fitters Kirkgas, them who cannot be bothered to buy a flux brush, I knew a guy who used his finger to flux most joints.
 
But you do the same as all of us though, turn on the taps. I have never seen anybody flush out the water pipes. I have only ever done it when installing cold mains, due to pebbles in feeds to new build properties.

"DO AS I SAY, NOT AS I DO" springs to mind, but in saying that i use minimal flux in a house, therefore extra flushing not usually required with my work!!!!!!!!!!
 
But you do the same as all of us though, turn on the taps. I have never seen anybody flush out the water pipes. I have only ever done it when installing cold mains, due to pebbles in feeds to new build properties.


i usually connect a bit of hep with a valve on the end to the tail coming out of the wall for a shower and flush that through before i connect a shower, but never really found the need to do it for taps
 
James Rose, Would this turquoise looking stuff in the filters be little solid bits?

If so it is most likely to be insulation from the cylinder (if indeed you have one). This very often happens
when fitting an immersion heater without making sure bits dont drop in when cleaning the seating.

If that is the case then it is just a case of clearing the filters till the problem stops.

Worst case is if there are large pieces which can catch in isolating valves or narrow flexi pipes.

heliotrope - yes these blue bits are solid to look at then they crumble when pressed or squeezed !
They have been ending up in all the tap heads so i have been clearing with toothbrush.
Also flexi hoses on all taps here ! and i suppose it would be wise to un-couple all shower heads and massage jets to clear out and run through.

Plumber back here at 8am tomorrow - fingers crossed !
 
I have seen the very same fitters Kirkgas, them who cannot be bothered to buy a flux brush, I knew a guy who used his finger to flux most joints.

For me its not the brush thats the problem its trying to keep it clean so you don't get dirt in the fitting.
 
I used to use the coill of solder dipped in the flux and run round the pipe/fitting...that was years ago mind
 
what has probably happend is that after the 1st fix installation then the second fix the pipework has layed unused for a while (no water supply)and excessive flux has been left to degrade/oxidize. The pipework should have been flushed after the 1st fix and then flushed after the second fix. Excessive boss white use can also cause major problems with valves anf fixtures.

There have been cases with new builds where pipework had been left with debris inside for very long periods and major problems where encountered after water was finally connected needing complete repipes. im unsure without reading the water regs book but in these cases you need to decontaminate the pipework before commissioning of the system.
 
Must say I have never had that problem, I just leave the brush in the flux pot.


i drilled a hole in the lid of the flux for the brush to go in so the lid can be screwed back on to keep the flux clean, and as long as you keep buying the same flux you just swap lids when the tub is empty
 
I would say thats what we all do, I warm up a bit of copper pipe though, saves getting bits from the drill in the flux.
 
You warm up a bit of copper with your blow torch get the piece of plastic you want a hole in and push it through. Some do it on CWSCs but this isn't advisable as it does weaken the molecular structure of the plastic and cause it (in worst case scenario) to split. Also you have to then file off all the plastic that was pushed through and get it out. Best to just use one of those drill bits (The name has just slipped out my head, it'll come to me later, everyone will know what I mean) that has a guide bit then a circle bit with sharp teeth to cut a perfect hole in it :)
 
And what is the best brush to use? Most cheap brushes fall apart.
 
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