freezing 8mm/10mm plastic CH pipe, is it ok?

[pjgtech]

Hi, I have a leak on the live side of one of my rads, in the GF loo.
Its a condensing combi system, the house is only 5 years old, so fairly new.
The leak is at the bottom compression fitting on the lockshield rad valve.
The rad is a chromed steel towel rail, and the valve is brass/copper, the pipe that comes out the bottom of the valve and then disappears into the wall is 8mm or 10mm plastic pipe.
I've tried nipping it up a couple of times, but it is still leaking, only small amount, but its annoying.
I really don't want to drain down the whole system if I can help it.
I'm happy to try freezing the pipe, (using an arctic freeze type kit) but just a bit concerned that the plastic pipe may split?
I'm an old school plumber, (eg: 25 years ago!) and used to freeze pipes ok back in the day with a Rothenbergher kit, but all the pipes were copper and at least 15mm (1/2") back then.
How likely is it that freezing a small bore plastic pipe will split? or is it ok to freeze and not to worry about it?
Thanks for any info, been a long time since I got my tools out! Lol...

 

[Ben-gee]

First I’d try undoing the nut and smearing a bit of paste on olive/fitting joint and retighten. As long as you hold the pipe this should be fine live.
Or get a turn or two of ptfe over the olive.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Would take the pressure off first then you can handle it fine might get a drip or two nothing that an old towel can’t fix

 

[pjgtech]

Would take the pressure off first then you can handle it fine might get a drip or two nothing that an old towel can’t fix

Cheers but can't do that.....I've turned off both rad valves, (and vented top of rad), but as its on the live side, (bottom nut) and rads on the GF, (its a two storey house), theres a head of pressure in the system. As soon as I start undoing the compression nut, water is pouring out, so can't undo it enough to get some PTFE or boss white on it? thats why I thought about freezing it. Is it ok to freeze small bore pipes?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

You would have to remove the rad to freeze it as you need a good 2” of pipe as your working on one end

 

[pjgtech]

You would have to remove the rad to freeze it as you need a good 2” of pipe as your working on one end

I've probably got about 3" of pipe before it goes into the wall, I have a small pipe freezing jacket, which just about fits, think I'll give it a go and just see how I go. I have used freezer kits a lot, but it was years ago and only on copper pipes, so I was just a bit unsure about the wall thickness of modern small bore pipes and whether they would split or not? cheers

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I wouldn’t recommend it then

 

[king of pipes]

I wouldn't waste my time close off all the rads on the system close valves on the boiler then let it go into a container and wet vac any water up chances are it will lock up and you can remove the valve give it a few turns of PTFE then replace . Kop

 

[pjgtech]

I wouldn't waste my time close off all the rads on the system close valves on the boiler then let it go into a container and wet vac any water up chances are it will lock up and you can remove the valve give it a few turns of PTFE then replace . Kop

Hmm, I suppose if closing all rads and boiler, I would only lose the water in the pipes, yes? but if I lose a fair bit of water will I need to add any inhibitor, etc? the water that came out 1st time I tried was completely clear, did not look like it had anything added? Its an Ideal Logic Combi ESP1 35? cheers

 

[king of pipes]

Your over thinking this do as I said the pressure will quickly reduce and stop if you isolate the valves on the towel rail first then you can drain this out and remove it completely you have more control then you can add the inhibitor into the towel rail when you put it back . Kop