Gas fire not fixed to wall???? | Gas Engineers Forum | Plumbers Forums
  • Welcome to PlumbersTalk.net

    Welcome to Plumbers' Talk | The new domain for UKPF / Plumbers Forums. Login with your existing details they should all work fine. Please checkout the PT Updates Forum

Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws

American Visitor?

Hey friend, we're detecting that you're an American visitor and want to thank you for coming to PlumbersTalk.net - Here is a link to the American Plumbing Forum. Though if you post in any other forum from your computer / phone it'll be marked with a little american flag so that other users can help from your neck of the woods. We hope this helps. And thanks once again.

Discuss Gas fire not fixed to wall???? in the Gas Engineers Forum area at Plumbers Forums

Jennie

Gas Engineer
Messages
283
Hi all,
I'm puzzling over a gas fire Valor Homeflame. (I've fixed/serviced quite a few gas fires over the last five years, but am still learning).
Every gas fire I've so far come across has been fixed securely to the closure plate/back wall, so it can't be accidentally pulled out forwards (without unscrewing, etc) from the chimney opening.
This fire had less than the 150mm side access specified by the MIs to undo the side screws. Didn't look like the screws had ever been undone, despite previous servicing. From what I could see, the fire had had the side screws fitted (109 on diagram), and then simply slid into position. Only the gas pipe was holding the fire in position.
In addition, this was a former fire place (swept before installation). But anyway, it had a metal plate across the chimney opening made by the installer (rather than the usual bricked opening). Didn't sound right. So I AR'd the fire and recommended another engineer check it out (in case I was missing anything, in the hope of a simple solution before I looked into fitting a new fire, etc).
The other engineer declared it perfectly safe. Customer is happy (fire is now working) but thinks I can't handle a screwdriver. So what was I missing? I've been taught to stick to the MIs, etc, and err on the side of safety. I'd love to know.
Thanks for all your advice, screwdriver tips, etc.
Jennie
Screen Shot 2020-11-24 at 12.06.56.png
Screen Shot 2020-11-24 at 11.58.11.png
 
where in the mi's does it say it needs to be screwed to the wall
It doesn't... was it that simple? All I could find was two screws to undo on the sides, but couldn't see rear fixings on the diagram. Is that for real? Just held in with a gas pipe and it's own weight? What if a child tries to climb up on it, etc, and pulls it free? But if that's how it's designed, fair enough. It's all a learning experience.
 
It doesn't... was it that simple? All I could find was two screws to undo on the sides, but couldn't see rear fixings on the diagram. Is that for real? Just held in with a gas pipe and it's own weight? What if a child tries to climb up on it, etc, and pulls it free? But if that's how it's designed, fair enough. It's all a learning experience.
In theory it should be on a solid base (A hearth) and levelled correctly with it's feet to prevent it from moving. The gas pipe and the spigot into the closure plate is enough to hold them, along with the weight of the things.
 
They (as above have said) do just sit there, level and on a firm surface. The screws are only to take the case off as you now know and because they can be slid out of position, it's no real problem.
I don't know that the metal plate you are describing (instead of brick) is because I haven't seen it but it sounds like the damper?
Coal fires with back boilers had a damper plate set into what often looked like a letter box in cast iron, situated up above the throat. When you pulled them down to the forward position they allowed the draught to run stronger around the base and rear of the boiler to put more heat into the water. In the up or back position, the heat from the fire was thrown more forward into the room because of effect of the throat. The face of the boiler still took heat but to a lesser extent. If you see dampers in place in an old coal fire which is now used for gas, they should be removed or broken into the position where the flue/chimney is open to the fire.
 
The old baxi baxk boilers are the same just pipe and weight holding them
In theory it should be on a solid base (A hearth) and levelled correctly with it's feet to prevent it from moving. The gas pipe and the spigot into the closure plate is enough to hold them, along with the weight of the things.

Yes, all that was in place. Just had no idea that would be sufficient. I like fixings, and lots of them. But if that's how they're designed, fair enough. So interesting to know all this. Thanks everyone. :)
 

Similar plumbing topics

Some Gazco fires have the pressure test elbow...
Replies
1
Views
2K
Hi all, Thanks so much everyone for your...
Replies
4
Views
3K
I replaced a boiler at a property earlier this...
Replies
12
Views
163
Physically next to the pump, 22mm pipe goes up...
Replies
2
Views
1K
Back
Top