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layzee D

Hi Guys, I'm a newly Qual'd GS engineer. (plumber since 1991) I am to be assessed for my three jobs at the end of the month.
Yesterday my elderly neighbour asked me to have a look at her boiler, as her heating had stopped. After a bit of investigation, the boiler was fine and her 3 port valve sync motor had gone.

Obviously I got a professional electrician to replace it!

Her boiler (ideal condensing H/O) hadn't been serviced since it was installed 5 years ago. so I serviced it, following the MI. Completed and printed out an FGA and tightness test. and everything ticketyboo.

On my course paperwork wasn't really covered. so I filled out a Landlord's/Homeowner and a service/maintenance record. and stapled the reports to it

I realise this is probably incorrect, but I eer on the side of caution. I did all of the work for free as she is a widow in her 80's.
I take it this can count as one of the jobs?

any advice is appreciated.

Dave
 
of course it can count as one of your jobs. You have done the work even tho you took no payment.
 
thank you for your reply, What paperwork is the correct one to fill in? it never got covered on my course.
 
Components which form part of or are intrinsic to the operation of the heating system shall be considered to be part of the heating system.
You don't need a spark for that unless your not comfy with wiring which is fair enough if thats the case
 
ok lads I was gonna do a winky face, of course I replaced it myself, but you know how forums are! haha I was expecting a torrent of condescending comments
 
are you sure about that phill? so I could wire in an s plan completely myself? (and this isn't a sarccy comment)
 
Good tip when changing threeway valves if youve not done many first strip the outer sheth back on the new valve usually about 3 inches after disconnecting the power cut the wire on the old valve close to the box then pull the wire through into the box, push the new wire through into the box and then only remove one core at a time taking note of where youve removed it from and replace each one seperately this way the old wires are there to guide you
this is of course assuming there is a box and not a jumbled mess behind the time clock which is semi mounted on a platerboard box which is hanging half out the wall which is how most of what ive worked on are
 
changing like for like electrical components unless in a special location can be done by your paperboy :)

and as mentioned many sparks are best kept away from such things like heating controls.
 
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well be honest the valve was in zone 2, in an airing cupboard at the end of the bath, so within 600mm.
and steve I just change the synchronised motor, the body I leave on unless the microswitch has gone. just two wires connected with WAGOs
 
anyway, if I could repeat the original question, to the GS members, what's the correct paperwork to fill out on jobs? as they both seem to do the same thing?
and another one. I had a NCS, the ECV yellow tape was missing. other than advise the customer and write in report,no other action needed?
 
The paperwork you filled out is brilliant. It covers exactly what you did, including the important GSR26(9) check as required by legislation.
 
oh, I'm surprised, thanks Reg man, yes one thing they drummed on the course was 26 (9). just though I was doing something over the top and the GS man would be raising an eyebrow
 
Get a warning pack if you have n't already(labels, tapes etc i think i got mine from corgi site) i guess your self employed?
Inspector will want to see that / or he will advise you to get one anyway
 
ah thanks matt, I got the warning/advisory book, no labels or tape yet tho, good shout. my wife got me loads of good presents for xmas from corgi site. anything else you can think of?
 
Industry unsafe situations procedure booklet as he may ask how you would deal with different unsafe circumstances. If you have not got the purchased booklet, you can go on their web site and down load it electronically. He will also check you have all the safety Kit; Manometer, temporary continuity bond, smoke pellets, smoke matches, Leak detection fluid.
 
she also got me the unsafe procedures book, I had a look through it and it seems like not too much info contained, do I need to download all the inserts? got LDF no pellets or matches or the temp continuity bond. yet. awesome Reg man, you're a great help. On that subject I have a question and I hope this allowed to ask this in this thread.....

I just got back from a job, changing the FFDs (liquid Exp) in a rangemaster cooker. and the meter had no continuity bond whatsoever, how do classify this? and action?

I would say it NCS and an advisory to correct for the custard. as i'm going back I didn't do any paperwork as yet once the FSDs arrive
 
I did 3 jobs whilst he was there, no point in doing it twice!! just record what you have done and hand him a bit of paper with 3 addresses that he can follow you to. First one he will make you do everything, second one he will just get you to do a few things you didn't do on first and may not even go to third.

On finishing mine said, "if you don't know, don't be afraid to ask!" And off he went. Easiest thing I got worked up for ever!!
 
One major thing mine said to me is to use the brush LDF rather then the spray as easier to clean off and doesn't go everywhere
 
surely, he cant expect you to do the work while he's with you? I very rarely do jobs that only take an hour, and working in London sometimes it can take 2 hours to get to site. I originally thought he wanted to see you do the stuff, but we got told by an instructor to revisit tasks........confused now
 
Use of temporary continuity bond is essential, especially when removing a gas meter. Any spark though electrically charged pipework could end with dramatic results when the meter blows up. I know many will say, "oh I never bother" but it only needs to happen once and your in deep dodo.

You can take the GSR inspector to jobs you have completed and he will ask you to do the minimum tests required in 26(9) and a gas tightness.
 
thank you reg man, by coincidence I bought one yesterday, also if an earth fault is running down the pipe and you grab both ends at the same time......goodnight Vienna
 
I was doing a tightness yesterday, and there was 1/2 Mbar drop, on a G4 obviously that's allowed as it was on an old cooker. but I used my Kane leak detector wand. omg that thing is awesome. I found a tiny leak on a Mild Steel straight coupling. I would have missed it with just LDF it was that small and the custard had never smelt gas under the stairs.
 
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