greenstar 24i junior lockout | Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board | Plumbers Forums

Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws

Discuss greenstar 24i junior lockout in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

Status
Not open for further replies.
R

rab250

Hopefully somebody will be able to throw a few suggestions my way.
Worcester g star 24i junior. Flashing for ignition lockout everything seems ok except getting 6vdc out of pcb to gas valve should be 35 according to the manual. Checked transformer 46 ohms across the 2 pins and continuity across the top 2 & bottom 2 . So i replaced pcb . Still not working. :bigcry:
 
Check that the molex plug on the gas valve is bone dry, precision air duster usually clears it.
 
Check that the molex plug on the gas valve is bone dry, precision air duster usually clears it.

Checked all that pal. Its the low voltage from the pcb i'm concerned about. The old pcb was 6vdc and so is the new 1
 
Hi rab250 - I must be looking at the wrong mi's coz I can't find much reference to voltages expected etc. However 35vdc seems small for any gas valve main solenoids? Do you have a link to the mi's you're looking at? I'm checking Junior 47-311-86... which are pants!! :)
 
Sure it should be 24vdc or above from memory? Are you testing at the board or on the end of the leads? Test at board end if you haven't already.
 
Last edited:
image.jpg

Your right diamondgas it doesn't say it in the manual this is a copy of some paperwork i got on a training day. I am testing at the board
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    95.8 KB · Views: 76
Testing aside, have you done the other stuff... condensate clearing okay, flue clear etc?

You could check for any fluctuation in pressure at the gas valve P1 or p2 to indicate gas flow of any kind :) Test resistance through the coils of the gas valve... as suggested in the picture you show.... :)

I haven't had enough personal experience with this boiler to give you anything concrete mate!!! :)
 
Testing aside, have you done the other stuff... condensate clearing okay, flue clear etc?

You could check for any fluctuation in pressure at the gas valve P1 or p2 to indicate gas flow of any kind :) Test resistance through the coils of the gas valve... as suggested in the picture you show.... :)

I haven't had enough personal experience with this boiler to give you anything concrete mate!!! :)

i don't work on many either to be honest. Ive done all what you suggested pal pretty much at a loss . Gunna be a call to technical on monday morn i recon ,
 
I'd be doing the same ... maybe carrying a gas valve on loan from the suppliers just in case? :) .... You getting a spark, smell of gas at flue/sample point? Sounds daft but gives you some other things to checkout, if not already done so :) Seems most likely the gas valve or PCB if it's doing everything else yeh? ... This isn't one of the Worcesters with the sticking 'flap' in the mixing pipe before the burner is it? ... I know Worcesters had the issue with some of their appoliances as do some of the Vitodenz... :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'd be doing the same ... maybe carrying a gas valve on loan from the suppliers just in case? :) .... You getting a spark, smell of gas at flue/sample point? Sounds daft but gives you some other things to checkout, if not already done so :) Seems most likely the gas valve or PCB if it's doing everything else yeh? ... This isn't one of the Worcesters with the sticking 'flap' in the mixing pipe before the burner is it? ... I know Worcesters had the issue with some of their appliances as do some of the Vitodenz... :)
Definitely spark, i do think its a gas issue but not gas valve , its not getting the correct voltage but I've put a pcb on it already i was hoping someone was going to tell me its supplied in sequence with one of the sensors. Dont really want to go down the road of getting another pcb incase the new ones dodgy.
Thanks anyway mate
 
Have known of pcb's being dodgy ... have also known me to check that gas is coming out of gas valves when I've been lost... :) If you can get a replacement PCB free then go for it ... otherwise get Worcester involved IMHO..............................

given the info and obvious competence you show (none derogatory) they may be your only hope TBH :) IMHO :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I think you will be replacing the fan, Im pretty sure the gas valve gets its voltage from the fan pcb.
 
Worcester always recommend that you change the transformer too if you change the PCB. They're about £15, so worth it anyway.

I assume from your training notes you've checked the resistance over the coils on the gas valve? The Prettle ones are the most likely thing to cause this fault.

The gas valve doesn't get it's voltage from the fan, the fan just opens up the diaphragm inside it. The PCB puts power to the solenoids to allow the gas to pass through as the fan sucks on the diaphragm to pull more or less gas through depending on speed.

Is the fan running at it's correct speed, ie not revving up and down or not spinning at all?
 
Worcester always recommend that you change the transformer too if you change the PCB. They're about £15, so worth it anyway.

I assume from your training notes you've checked the resistance over the coils on the gas valve? The Prettle ones are the most likely thing to cause this fault.

The gas valve doesn't get it's voltage from the fan, the fan just opens up the diaphragm inside it. The PCB puts power to the solenoids to allow the gas to pass through as the fan sucks on the diaphragm to pull more or less gas through depending on speed.

Is the fan running at it's correct speed, ie not revving up and down or not spinning at all?
Thanks arran, i have ordered a transformer to be delivered tomorrow i measured it the other day against what it should be ( between 40-100ohms & continuity between top 2 & bottom 2) i got 46 ohms. On speaking to wb today he said it was a little low and to replace that. Fan seems ok to me and resistances are spot on really. Watch this space !
 
Does it lock-out straight away or does it ignite for a bit first? If it does light, have you checked the max/min CO2 levels? I've had it before where the previous engineer had a fault FGA and altered the CO2 so much that the boiler would only light for a few seconds and then go to lock-out. Worth a check?
 
Hiya Rab250

Have you tried a new wiring loom? or tested the existing for the correct resistance/voltages as per Worcester's spec. As I have had duff wiring looms on the 24i's before.
 
Thanks arran, i have ordered a transformer to be delivered tomorrow i measured it the other day against what it should be ( between 40-100ohms & continuity between top 2 & bottom 2) i got 46 ohms. On speaking to wb today he said it was a little low and to replace that. Fan seems ok to me and resistances are spot on really. Watch this space !
fans are very weak on these are you getting 240v at the fan multiplug?
 
By the way, transformers only work with AC. Don't go on measuring DC voltage on the secondary! Have you checked condensate trap/bottle! If all else fails replace it with a Heat Line mate, or as someone once told me Vaillant Heat-line! :cheesy:
 
Thanks for all the advice , i have done pretty much everything you have all suggested except wiring loom. I bit the bullet yesterday and told the customer to call worcester bosch and get them to have a look , anyway he has been to day thrown a load of parts on it and its still not working! Which makes me feel better ( customer not so). He is going back tomorrow cos he thinks the gas valve he fitted today is faulty ( ive already put a g v on it also ). I will post the outcome when i know
 
had a nightmare with a glowworm spacesaver mk2 40b mate pilot would not stay on when button released diagnosed gas valve replaced a few days ago - boiler been ok today get call pilot goes out now and again so the gas valve must have not been the fault I am told by customer and I have changed it for nothing even though they saw me fit a temp new thermo into old valve to eliminate it on first visit.i assume its the pilot assy that's partialy blocked now or the thermocouple lead that's no longer available that's playing up.realy got to me this wk what makes it worse is that my merchant is putting security stickers on all parts it supplies now and once the box is open they are non returnable this is on pcbs gas valves fans etc which puts more pressure on us
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar plumbing topics

End to end test it would be my next port then...
Replies
3
Views
1K
Hello All- (Usual caveats apply: I am the...
Replies
0
Views
213
  • Locked
hi got it it sorted, boiler running on a...
Replies
8
Views
195
I did email a Lou, with my gsr#, few days ago...
Replies
5
Views
2K
Replies
3
Views
2K
Dotty
D
Back
Top