Greenstar 28I Junior common/age related faults

[helpmeguys]

Hi. Looking for some advice. Recently had the flow adaptor fail on my Greenstar. Replaced it and all is good again but; judging by the reason it failed I am due for some more sh*tty plastic parts to let me down anytime soon. This thing and the internals of it were crumbling apart in your hand.
Can any of you let me know what would be prudent to change as a proactive maint strategy? I believe the boiler is 10-15yrs old but i'm not certain.
Further to this I was looking at getting a service but it seems the service is basically a visual inspection with filters clean and combustion check which is not really what i'm after. I've also seen various burner services etc performed on youtube and wondered if this kind of thing is necessary for a well maintained machine.
Cheers all.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Common faults

Left hand hydro block (pin holes)
Right hand hydro block (right at the top it leaks)
Flow adapter / restrictor

Tbh that’s it

Sounds like yours needs a full strip down service eg if you can remove the baffles if not two options new boiler or fixed price repair from Worcester for a new hex

As they need to be done every 4 years

 

[helpmeguys]

Common faults

Left hand hydro block (pin holes)
Right hand hydro block (right at the top it leaks)
Flow adapter / restrictor

Tbh that’s it

Sounds like yours needs a full strip down service eg if you can remove the baffles if not two options new boiler or fixed price repair from Worcester for a new hex

As they need to be done every 4 years

Much appreciated man. Exactly what I need. What sort of cost should I be looking at for the hex clean? Of the companies I have contacted so far; not one of them has suggested this might need to be done. Would the need to do it normally be highlighted by measurables on a std service/inspection?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

It all depends if you can get the baffles out I’ve just done one took 3 hours plus parts

I find a lot just stick the probe in and go around 15 mins etc

With Worcester’s they build up alu oxide the pics below are an example got a cup full of particles/ alu oxide out of this hex it’s still not 100% clean but as it 14 year old it’s not bad

 

[Scott_D]

I've also seen various burner services etc performed on youtube and wondered if this kind of thing is necessary for a well maintained machine.
Cheers all.

TBH it doesn’t sound like a well maintained machine if it’s crumbling to bits and never has the burner cleaned.
Lots of people don’t want to this kind of service on a boiler of that age (near the end of it life) as it may finish it off.

 

[Chuck]

Further to this I was looking at getting a service but it seems the service is basically a visual inspection with filters clean and combustion check which is not really what i'm after.

The measurements made during a combustion check are actually a pretty good guide to what maintenance procedures are needed. For example, the fan pressure is a diagnostic for aluminium oxide in the heat exchanger channels. This pressure gradually rises towards zero as aluminium oxide builds up over the years and eventually reaches the point where the service manual says the heat exchanger needs cleaning, which is what @ShaunCorbs's pictures show. Since cleaning the heat exchanger takes several hours and involves a load of dismantling you don't want to do it more often than WB say is necessary.

 

[helpmeguys]

TBH it doesn’t sound like a well maintained machine if it’s crumbling to bits and never has the burner cleaned.
Lots of people don’t want to this kind of service on a boiler of that age (near the end of it life) as it may finish it off.

I suspect this part has never been changed before tbh. The heating and cooling of a cheap injection moulded component over 10yrs plus clearly has this effect. I think that is only indicative of age/cycles and the design for failure consumer culture we have embraced. Not how well maintained it is.
Were you intending for this information to be constructive? It seems like you are implying I shouldn't bother to set up some maintenance in favour of just slinging a load of money at a new boiler?
Could you perhaps tell me what causes the end of life scenario? Offering advice as to what I am looking to stop happening would be far more useful to me. Cheers.

 

[helpmeguys]

The measurements made during a combustion check are actually a pretty good guide to what maintenance procedures are needed. For example, the fan pressure is a diagnostic for aluminium oxide in the heat exchanger channels. This pressure gradually rises towards zero as aluminium oxide builds up over the years and eventually reaches the point where the service manual says the heat exchanger needs cleaning, which is what @ShaunCorbs's pictures show. Since cleaning the heat exchanger takes several hours and involves a load of dismantling you don't want to do it more often than WB say is necessary.

Cheers man. I will get a service and checks done and see where the fan pressure is. This might give me an idea as to whether the unit has had HEX cleans in the past. What sort of loss would you expect to see if the HEX has never been cleaned at about 10yrs old?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

It wouldn’t of done (had any cleaning)

 

[Scott_D]

I suspect this part has never been changed before tbh. The heating and cooling of a cheap injection moulded component over 10yrs plus clearly has this effect. I think that is only indicative of age/cycles and the design for failure consumer culture we have embraced. Not how well maintained it is.
Were you intending for this information to be constructive? It seems like you are implying I shouldn't bother to set up some maintenance in favour of just slinging a load of money at a new boiler?
Could you perhaps tell me what causes the end of life scenario? Offering advice as to what I am looking to stop happening would be far more useful to me. Cheers.

Although pretty reliable its not a great boiler, mostly made of cheap components and poorly designed for maintenance and repairs in my opinion.
Expansion vessel charge will help stop large pressure fluctuations on the heating side, regular checks on the pressure as there is no low cut out.
System water quality and regular cleans of the magnetic filter if fitted.
Mini shock arrestor to reduce pressure spikes on the hot/cold side.
Adjusting the gas valve to keep in within tolerances.
If the heat exchanger has never been cleaned the baffles may be stuck inside.

 

[helpmeguys]

It all depends if you can get the baffles out I’ve just done one took 3 hours plus parts

I find a lot just stick the probe in and go around 15 mins etc

With Worcester’s they build up alu oxide the pics below are an example got a cup full of particles/ alu oxide out of this hex it’s still not 100% clean but as it 14 year old it’s not bad

Hi Shaun

Found another leak today. Def looking at new boilers now but could do with an intermediate fix. It looks like the CH PRV is in the area of the leak. I can't find anything coming from anywhere else and the leak is internal so its not just venting pressure to outside. In your experience is there a likely failure nearby that could be throwing me off.
The main reason I ask is because if I shut to cold water feed then the leaking stops. I cannot understand this if the leak is coming from the CH PRV itself. Any insight appreciated.

Just as an aside; suggestions for models around 3kw that you'd recommend?

Cheers

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Right hand block by the sounds of it

Problem is getting one these days been waiting for one 8 weeks to date

 

[helpmeguys]

Right hand block by the sounds of it

Problem is getting one these days been waiting for one 8 weeks to date

Nice one. I can't even find a part number for that in the manual. Do you have a part number you can give me?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Best to contact a gas safe engineer and say the right hand block is leaking

Or phone Worcester up for a fixed price repair normally around 300 inc