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MZR

Plumbers Arms member
Plumber
Gas Engineer
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hey all

the above boiler has a slow flashing blue light and the red error light flashing, the pump and fan run and i have lifted the spark electrode plate on the board slightly and i can hear it spark, the power on the gas valve is 35 volts dc and manometer does not drop at all this tells me the gas valve is faulty ( i believe ) i called Worcester who also confirmed this BUT i have gave the landlord the price and now hes telling me its a flue sensor thats the problem and that i should check it again before he will pay for a new gas valve, i have advise him of the process that ive carried out and its left me thinking IS IT A SENSOR ? what do you guys think ???

thank all
 
hey all

the above boiler has a slow flashing blue light and the red error light flashing, the pump and fan run and i have lifted the spark electrode plate on the board slightly and i can hear it spark, the power on the gas valve is 35 volts dc and manometer does not drop at all this tells me the gas valve is faulty ( i believe ) i called Worcester who also confirmed this BUT i have gave the landlord the price and now hes telling me its a flue sensor thats the problem and that i should check it again before he will pay for a new gas valve, i have advise him of the process that ive carried out and its left me thinking IS IT A SENSOR ? what do you guys think ???

thank all

Does it take apprx 2 mins after reset to lockout again and reset flash again? Or does it lockout within 30 secs?
 
yeah about 2 mins mate

Cant be flue sensor or would not go to ignition, it's tries 5 times before lockout hence takes 2 mins, is it a sit gas valve (coils at front) or prettle ( coils at rear)
If sit coils should be 180 and 380 ohms
 
Vern, you seem to really know your stuff with these.
This is the open gas forum tho right?
 
The gas valves with the connections at the rear are common for going. You do need to check the resistance of the coils to confirm it though. Easiest way is to do it is disconnect the connector block off the board and put your multimetre probes on there. The 2 purple sets of cables.
 
Have you checked the condense pipe isn't blocked?

I Had a callout on Saturday where the soakaway to the house is totally blocked, solid up approx 1.5 mtr section of rain water down pipe, similar faults as you describe.

Sometimes the easiest of faults prove the hardest.
 
Ha the landlord, I think it's a flue sensor.
Where the hell did that come from?
 
coils at the rear mate i didnt check the ohms of the coils just the valve had power to it

Prettle valve now obsolete, you will need a sit valve comes with pipe mod etc, easy fit, will need co2 setting up though 9.8% max 9.2% min....

if you have gauge on inlet, and it does not drop on ignition attempt with approx 35v on coils it will be the valve pal
 
ahh that will be fun setting the co2

Doodle pal, be careful when first setting up or you will poison your FGA as this valve sets over a wide range for all greenstars, keep your eye on readings and keep pulling out until you are somewhere near.
 
If I remember correctly the easiest way to set these up is unscrew the cap get 4mm Allen key, screw all the way in and then 7 full turns out and that should get you in the ball park for the high co
 
It depends on the kw of the boiler as to how many turns you need. But I wouldn't touch it if it fires up, that's the first hurdle done! It'll most likely just need tweaking.

But ye, check the resistance of the coils before doing all this!
 
Call Worcester technical and they will give you a base setting for the valve which will be near enough, then will just need a little bit of tweaking.
 
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