heating system - get hot water with programmer | Bathroom Advice | Plumbers Forums

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S

sebastienj

Hi,

I have recently moved into a new flat where I can only get the heating to work with programmer. In order to heat the water in the cylinder I have to use the leaver on the hot water valve and set it to manual. I I leave it to automatic and try to start it with the programmer, the boiler does not start. The programmer is a CP715.

I have also put together a table with how things are connected
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1IGnXbrCUVCH2xI4xt7CA0iuIkjKft2ju8TiSa3Fbiwk/edit?usp=sharing

This document shows a diagram how things should be connected
(page2 - Fully Pumped System, Two 2 ports valves zone, ... - bottom right)
I have not been able to post 2 different links on the same page so I have put it at the end of the document table here:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1IGnXbrCUVCH2xI4xt7CA0iuIkjKft2ju8TiSa3Fbiwk/edit?usp=sharing

When i connect all parts following the table I have put together I get to the same outcome shown on the diagram.

I have already replaced the hot water valve thinking it was broken but the problem remains.

Can someone help? Have made a mistake? Do i need to alter one of the connections?

It'd be nice to always have hot water... :)

Many thanks
Seb
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This morning I have tried something I did not try before.


I tested if some current was coming to the hot water valve which is pin 6 when the timer is on. Nothing...


Then i tried if i had pin 7 when the timer is on and off. There is current in both instances.


I am confused. I was expecting to have current on 7 only when the timer for hot is on.


since there is always current coming into pin 7 regardless of the timer being on or off, does it mean the hot water should always be on?
 
i forgot to mention in the original post.

the hot water valve is set to automatic. when set to this the hot water does not get heated. If I move the leaver to manual then the boiler comes on and the hot water starts heating up.
 
since pin 7 is the live of the cylinder which connected the timer (pin 3) and that the neutral of the cylinder which is pin 6 is connected to the live of the hot water valves. this pin 6 never get current. does this mean that the cylinder thermostat is broken?
 
I have just pressed a little red button on the cylinder's thermostat which i believe is called the reset thermostat cut-off button. and the boiler just started working with the timer.

Is this bad or good?

I am assuming that if I had to press the reset cut off button this means that in the past the water got too hot and the cut off system was triggered.

Does this mean that if I start using the timer to heat the water and it gets to hot the cut off system will trigger itself again?

Does this mean the cylinder's thermostat is broken?
 
Fault finding requires a process of elimination.

It also includes an ability to source the primary fault, which at times is often misunderstood and diagnosed by a secondary fault.

Saying that, the cylinder stat may be operating correctly and the fault is further down the line.

The whole system needs someone to check it over.
 
How are you testing for power ? testing screwdriver/ or multi meter ? if screwdriver just because it lights up does-not mean that you have the correct voltage. Also do you have a room stat ?
Can you give some information on cylinder stat & number of connections & wires connected.
 
Last edited:
Why are you posting under two different names - "sebastienj" and "unregistered guest"?

Check that switch 2 on the back of the programmer is set to P.

The thermostat at the top of the HW cylinder is for the electric immersion heater. It has nothing to do with heating the cylinder via the boiler. This is provided for emergencies, when the boiler is not working.

There should be a thermostat about 1/3rd up the side of the cylinder, held in place by curtain wire. That sets the temperature when heating the cylinder from the boiler.
 
Hi guys, sorry for the lack of response.

The HW is now working fine with timer after pressing the red button formth cut off. The cylinder is this.
Potterton Gold Unvented Cylinder 150 Litre INDIRECT


I will take some pictures tomorrow of the immersion heater. There are 2 wires coming out of that white panel which is located 1\3 up of the cylinder and they go to the wiring Center.

It would be good to know what triggered the cut off system and see if it is likely to happened again.
 
Hi,

My system is acting up again, when the HW time is up the leaver of the HW valves does not go back up to auto, it stays down on manual so the boiler never switches itself off.

I did 2 tests

1) when the water is cold in the cylinder or just a little warm. i set the timer to heat the water for 5 mins. when the time is up the HW valve goes back to auto and the boiler turns itllef off

2) when the water in the cylinder has been heated for 45 mins. i set the timer to the heat the water for 5 mins. the HW valve does not move it says on auto. so the boiler does not turn itself on which I believe it the correct behavior.

what could cause this to happen?

please any help would be very much appreciated.

Seb
 
Is no one else concerned that he's reset a safety device on an unvented or have I missed something here?? My honest opinion old chum is if it's unvented then get someone G3 qualified in in. Your family's safety is better than saving a couple of quid
 

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