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Discuss heatline c24 hot water not working in the Gaining Plumbing Experience area at Plumbers Forums

J

Jdogg9380

Hi there,

my brother has a heatline c24 combi which was working totally fine for 3 years then few days ago the hot DHW just stopped heating up. The CH side of things is working perfect, it just the DHW. The flow of water coming out of the tap is the same as before but the boiler is just not igniting or sometimes ignites for 10 secs then goes out. Can anyone shed some light on this.


Thanks
 
is this all the bits i need?

thanks

photo_(78).JPG
 
Hi lot of hot water faults noe caused by dirty system, this will clog up the plate heat exchanger and give intermitant hot water, but try other things first , if sytem is dirty can start to cost a lot to put right ! Good Luck.
 
heat exchangers always sludge up on these **** boilers ive changed loads of them on these, wouldn't make the boiler not start though so probably not the hw heat exchanger in this case, if nothing what so ever happens when you turn on a tap then likely to be the flowswitch, if the thermistor goes it normaly shows a fault code on these, 1 of the led's lights up on the front, cant remember which one. You might get away with just changing the sensor part of the flowswitch, it just pulls off and no nead to drain although if it is one of the older types you cant and you have to change the whole thing either way.
 
changed the flow sensor and still no hot water. where would the hw thermistor be? so i can do that next? is it behind the silver panel? if so is that ok to take off?
 
That would be a No unless your Gas Safe Registered.Which I suspect not if you cant recognise a NTC.
Best to be safe Pal get an engineer and he will check its set up correctly and all the safty devices are working correctly.
The money and time for the 1st part would have paid the bulk off a straight foward job for a Gas man.
 
Left of diverter a back some are same as vokera some wider fitting you need to check the ohms reading or buy one try it dry first but normally if its faulty the 40 c light will be on as a fault code
 
agree with prs1 you should not be doing this if youre not gsr, it is illegal and for the sake of paying a gas engineer for a callout it is worth doing, you may end up spending more on parts guessing what the fault is then it would cost to call in a profesional who will diagnose the problem correctly and fit the correct part to the boiler, sounds like it could be a few different things, as i said in my previous post it could be ntc, also be main heat exchanger sludged so when boiler ramps up bp on hot water it gets to hot and cuts off (had this problem on same boiler), still doesn't o/h on htg as its sat at a lower bp, if you dont no what youre doing id calll someone in, you could easily get water on pcb and blow it or have a diff problem and you will regret it.
 
agree with prs1 you should not be doing this if youre not gsr, it is illegal and for the sake of paying a gas engineer for a callout it is worth doing, you may end up spending more on parts guessing what the fault is then it would cost to call in a profesional who will diagnose the problem correctly and fit the correct part to the boiler, sounds like it could be a few different things, as i said in my previous post it could be ntc, also be main heat exchanger sludged so when boiler ramps up bp on hot water it gets to hot and cuts off (had this problem on same boiler), still doesn't o/h on htg as its sat at a lower bp, if you dont no what youre doing id calll someone in, you could easily get water on pcb and blow it or have a diff problem and you will regret it.
I think most of us agree with you, unfortunately there's always some div who wants to show the world what they know....and so they go out their way to encourage people to undertake dangerous work
 
Some would say that gsr engineers should not be fiddling with electricity when they have only got qualifications for plumbing and gas but some gas engineers think they are Gods and really should not be changing PCBs pumps or stats
 
Some would say that gsr engineers should not be fiddling with electricity when they have only got qualifications for plumbing and gas but some gas engineers think they are Gods and really should not be changing PCBs pumps or stats
Wazzer it's the Law mate, I have on 3 different occasions had to attend where, if I hadn't been called (eventually), there would have been fatalities. Gas engineers are limited with what they can do with Electrics. You are in the wrong place to start saying things like that about Gas Engineers who know what the consequences are.
 
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agree, all gsr engineers can change a pump or at least they should be able to..... wazrer are u gsr? if you are i realy dont get ur comment, what do you expect people to do, call in a gsr engineer to change the pump and call in an elecrician to wire in the l/n/e ??? the person who started the post is obv not gsr and shouldnt be messing with boilers. i am happy to guide people in the right direction but this guy doesn't even know what a thermistor looks like, i was giving guidance so that he doesn't get a cowboy in who will tell him he needs a new boiler when he probably doesn't...... i realy think this whole forum should consist purely of gsr engineers for various reasons but i understand that the site needs to make money. just dont like the fact of random people with little knowlege atempting a job that should be left to people who have spent their lives training for it.
 
What is Wazrer on about ? If you call in a sparks to replace a pcb or any other electrical part on a heating system then they will have to be GSR to remove the boiler case then do the gas tests on boiler.!! :hammer:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Domestic Ho****er -Not working

Domestic Hot not working when in Central heating & DHW mode with tap open
Domestic Ho****er not working when in domestic hot water mode - No DHW Light and no demand for hot water. Burner not switching on

Replaced DHW Flow Sensor . Checked flow turbine and in water housing - No change still not working
Diverter valve motor works fine and checked motor closes and opens
Divertor Valve - Removed Divertor valve motor . Turned tap on . Pushed in the divertor valve pin and the hot water goes to tap. But this has no input to the controls

Big mystery remains - No DHW . As a Engineer . I am really struggling to find fault

PCB faulty- Doubt that .It must something simple that i can overlooked . Anyone been had simiiar issues . Totally baffled now

DHW water temperature sesnor - Will have to check this as last resort . Any ideas you wonderful people.
 

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