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G

GBZ

Hi there

I'm new to the forum and have a question.

Have installed a new ballcock in an F & E cistern. Can't seem to get the level right for where the float should sit. Have left it low on the stem, although water still tricking out of overflow.

Any ideas?
 
You really don't need a lot of water in the F & E tank, presuming you have renewed the whole ball valve, at the end of the valve where the ball sits, you should have the ball sitting at the bottom end of the arm.

Part 2 valve allows the ball to sit lower make sure ball is tight.

After its done, watch the level, then turn heating on etc. If its still overflowing make sure its due to the ball valve not another problem.:eek:
 
yeah, not much water needed in F&E tanks. i've had this exact problem before. what i realised was that there was too much water in the system. i ran the heating for a day and it sorted itself out.
 
Yes, have replaced the whole valve.

What's the difference between a part 2 valve and I presume a part 1?
 
as the name suggests an F&E (Feed & Expansion) tank should accomodate the expanded (heated) water so the cold water level should only be about 50-60mm above the outlet at the bottom of the tank, when the water heats and expands it will still be able to be accomodated in the tank, if the original level is too high when it expands it will go out the overflow.
as mentioned by others you need to check whether the ballvalve is actually shutting off
 
Yes, have replaced the whole valve.

What's the difference between a part 2 valve and I presume a part 1?
Part 1 piston type valve
Part 2 diaphragm type (metal)
 
Agree with all that's been said.

You should adjust the height of the float to get the water depth in the tank only a couple of inches with the system cold. This will allow the water to expand as the system heats up and never rise above the overflow hole. You should check this when the system is at maximum temperature.

If the overflow dripping does not stop after a day or three you probably have set the water level too high. This must be rectified, because each hot/cold cycle of the heating will expel some inhibitor and introduce some fresh aerated water into the system (via the ball valve), both of which will accelerate radiator corrosion - not good!
 
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