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southcoastboile

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I fitted a remeha avanta 28c (there new combi think its an avanta plus but not 100 percent)
anyway, I fitted a mechanical timeclock which was easy enough, just goes to terinal x2 on pcb, all wires labeled so you cant get it wrong.

From what I made out you needed l, n, e from fused spur to wireless reciever, then l,n,e to boiler out from reciever, then l and sl out from stat to t1 and 4 on x2 of pcb.

Drayton rf3, sl on t3. I have wired it up like this but for some reason boiler permanantly runs unless you disconnect wireless reciever/stat. I have tried switching t1 and 4 around on x2, still the same.

Really appreciate any help. Thanks
 
On the drayton you need a permanent live, neutral, earth. Then a feed from the time clock in the boiler goes to terminal 1 that switches to terminal 3, I think off the top of my head, and that is then your feed back to the switch live on the boiler which tells it to fire up. I fitted a couple remehas a few years back and cant remember exactly how they wire in but I think you need to cut a link???
 
there was a link in there before I removed the old treminal strip on x2 to swap for the new on with the timeclock, mabe thats why. Ill have another look but as its there new model the tech at Remeha dont seem to be that up on it yet. They said I had wired it correctly and it should be working. I even changed the stat and reciever for a new one incase it was that.
 
014.jpg012.jpg013.jpg015.jpg016.jpgAdded some piks, hopefully somewone will have wired the same boiler and knows were ive gone wrong. It was a Remeha avanta exclusive 28c
 
A bit hard to tell from the pictures mate but looks like you need to remove link in X2 between terminal 1 and 4 on the boiler and take 1 to C terminal (middle) on the stat and 4 to terminal furthest to the right.
 
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The Remeha's are great boilers, I personally always fit a RF prog thermostat as its easy to wire and only requires volt free switching.

The pics are not great, but my thoughts are, assuming the blue wire on its own is going to the boiler, you appear to have all the live wires together, rather than anything in the common? So the boiler is getting a constant live when the power is on, could be wrong :)
 
There are a couple of ways you could do this.

The Drayton stat is volt free so you could wire it from term 1 and 3 on the drayton to terminal 7 and 8 on X9 (remove the link) Make sure you don't connect 230v here or you will blow the board.

Or maybe safer for you

Remove the red and brown wires from terminal 1 (on X2) and put them into a bit connector block.
Put your blue wire (from the stat) into terminal 1
On the drayton move the wire brown wire (the one connecting to the red at the boiler) from L into 1.

Put a link back in between 3 and 4 unless you want the hw to run off the time clock which is pointless with a combi.
 
Thanks everyone. I will give that a go, I did wire straight into live rather than common as well. Going back tomorrow probably so Ill let you know how I get on.
 
There are a couple of ways you could do this.

The Drayton stat is volt free so you could wire it from term 1 and 3 on the drayton to terminal 7 and 8 on X9 (remove the link) Make sure you don't connect 230v here or you will blow the board.

Or maybe safer for you

Remove the red and brown wires from terminal 1 (on X2) and put them into a bit connector block.
Put your blue wire (from the stat) into terminal 1
On the drayton move the wire brown wire (the one connecting to the red at the boiler) from L into 1.

Put a link back in between 3 and 4 unless you want the hw to run off the time clock which is pointless with a combi.

Sorry Tamz, just to clarrify did you know the red wire in terminal 1 is connected to the integral programmer at the moment? Thanks
 
Yes it is the ch on. The stat needs to split this wire ie ch on (red wire) to C (1) on stat and call (3) to where you have the red atm.


Put the link back in between 3 and 4 (on X2) or the hw will only work if the clock is set to come on for hw.
 
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3 on the boiler is DHW by the looks of it, you need 4 and 1 and leave the link from 3 and 4 in as you have no need to control DHW

edit: 3 and 4 link not 1 and 3 :)
 
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Id have a junction box below the boiler, L, N, E to reciever and boiler from here, then a separate cable from the reciever volt free contacts, via the JB to X9 7 and 8
 
I get what Tamz is saying now that makes sence, so after wiring in the reciever correctly all I need to do is put a link between 3 and 4 as Tamz said so the hw is on constant. Is that what you meant by your last post Sambotc ? soz didnt know if you thought Tamz missed something or not?
 
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Yes mate, basically if you imagine as it was out the box the link between 3 and 4 (x2) stays and you remove the link between 1 and 4 and terminate your live and switched live cable into 1 and 4, then terminate them in the stat terminals C and whatever the name of the one to the right of common is.

So you are picking up a 230v feed from 1 (permanent live) which goes to common on the clock and then back down your switched live cable to 4 on the boiler so the boiler fires. When the stat is satisfied and switches it breaks that 230v supply and the boiler won't fire. So effectively all you are doing is adding a switch (the stat) to the link between 1 and 4.

The terminal on the far right of the stat is heating off.

Another way of wiring it just or future reference, you could take a 4 core from the boiler to the stat. L and N as you are now, then link L to common in the stat and switched live (the terminal to the right of common) back to the boiler terminal 4. You must make sure you take the permanent live for stat from boiler though otherwise if you isolate boiler you could still have a live on the board.

Hope that makes sense!
 
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From what you are saying Sambotc the way I have it wired atm is correct other than I put the brown wire that goes into t1 with red from timeclock to a permanant live on reciever rather than to common on the reciever, the blue sl on reciever (t3 of reciever) already goes to t4 on x2. (also I must link between 4 and 5 for hw)

This makes sence if timeclock sends 240v to red and brown on x2 which sends 240v to common on reciever which doesnt do anything untill roomstat calls and that sends 240v from common on reciever to sl (t3) on reciever and back down to t4 on x2.

Ive made this post really complicated now sorry.
 
yes basically L and N on the stat just power the display C is the power 'in' and then the other 2 terminals are 'out' (OFF/ normally open and ON / normally closed) on the switch.

The reason being so that you can switch volt free through C and open / closed terminals and still have a 230v supply to power the display. thats why I said earlier you could just link C and L on the stat as thats effectively all you are doing at the boiler end but the 230v supply has to come from the same source (boiler) to avoid 230v on the board when you isolate boiler from on/off switch etc.

"This makes sence if timeclock sends 240v to red and brown on x2 which sends 240v to common on reciever which doesnt do anything untill roomstat calls and that sends 240v from common on reciever to sl (t3) on reciever and back down to t4 on x2."

Pretty much but the stat breaks the 230v supply which tells boiler to turn off, rather than the stat sending 230v to the boiler to turn off, does that make sense?

thats why you can connect to the terminal on the far right of stat for OFF. When satisfied the supply from common is switched to this terminal which can be used for other controls, but you don't need that for a combi. Just like what you described in the above quote really just a different terminal for a different use.

Does that makes sense, probably a load of un-necessary waffle really but thought it may come in handy for future reference lol
 
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