Hep2O into Bullet Reducer

[balmain-by]

Installing HansGrohe I-Box shower valve. Using brass 3/4 elbow with a bullet reducer into Hep2o
15mm pipe for the hot and cold feeds. Not done much plastic and would like confirmation that this is a tried and true method.

Thanks

Paul

 

[Brambles]

Is this fully boxed in, or will you have an access hatch to the rear of the ibox?

The latter is preferable, if it can be accommodated.

For pipe size, you need to calculate / determine the required flow at the shower head (s) fed by the ibox. Some HG showers have a high flow rate and multiple heads. I would be wary of assuming that 15mm is ok - even on a balanced unvented system operating at full pressure. The incoming mains flow rate will give you a rough idea as to how the shower is going to perform

I would recommend plumbing the Ibox in completely in copper (preferably 22mm) and (if you must) reverting your plastic once the joints can be easily accessed.

If you are not accustomed to iboxes - make and test the joints to the box very carefully. The slightest error will result in a sweeping joint. Well, that is my experience anyway!!

If correctly fitted they are excellent.

 

[SimonG]

Another one here for copper. Nothing wrong with plastic if installed to manufacturers instructions, which includes the testing.
If things go wrong, and it's an if, then you may have issues claiming on your house insurance if you haven't installed correctly.
Not trying to frighten you it's just to let you know installing plastic correctly is not as easy as everybody thinks. Just this week stripped out a bathroom with hot and cold in plastic, not an insert in sight.

 

[balmain-by]

Another one here for copper. Nothing wrong with plastic if installed to manufacturers instructions, which includes the testing.
If things go wrong, and it's an if, then you may have issues claiming on your house insurance if you haven't installed correctly.
Not trying to frighten you it's just to let you know installing plastic correctly is not as easy as everybody thinks. Just this week stripped out a bathroom with hot and cold in plastic, not an insert in sight.

Thanks for your response. The hot and cold feeds are both coming down from the attic, so I didn’t want to run the torch up there.

I accept your point about copper over HEP2O but I always use the pipe manufacturers inserts and fittings. In this case I need to connect the plastic into the brass elbow coming out of the valve.

My merchant recommended a reducing bullet onto the HEP. Wanted to see if that was right way to go. I can connect up the feeds and check the joint cause the wall is open at the minute.

Cheers again.
[automerge]1570362953[/automerge]

Another one here for copper. Nothing wrong with plastic if installed to manufacturers instructions, which includes the testing.
If things go wrong, and it's an if, then you may have issues claiming on your house insurance if you haven't installed correctly.
Not trying to frighten you it's just to let you know installing plastic correctly is not as easy as everybody thinks. Just this week stripped out a bathroom with hot and cold in plastic, not an insert in sight.

Thanks for your reply. I do have the wall open, but the other side is the main bathroom and is tiled, so no access from there.

Wanted to know about the specific connection method that was recommended. I can hook up the feeds and connections to the valve and see if it weeps. If no good I can copper in the wall and then switch to HEP in the attic. Both feeds start life up there for both bathrooms and I was loathe to light up the torch up there.

Cheers

 

[balmain-by]

Is this fully boxed in, or will you have an access hatch to the rear of the ibox?

The latter is preferable, if it can be accommodated.

For pipe size, you need to calculate / determine the required flow at the shower head (s) fed by the ibox. Some HG showers have a high flow rate and multiple heads. I would be wary of assuming that 15mm is ok - even on a balanced unvented system operating at full pressure. The incoming mains flow rate will give you a rough idea as to how the shower is going to perform

I would recommend plumbing the Ibox in completely in copper (preferably 22mm) and (if you must) reverting your plastic once the joints can be easily accessed.

If you are not accustomed to iboxes - make and test the joints to the box very carefully. The slightest error will result in a sweeping joint. Well, that is my experience anyway!!

If correctly fitted they are excellent.

Hi Brambles - I did my I-Box pipe work in copper but when I turned on the water I have a weep from the cold elbow going into the valve. This was a difficult connection and I did not use jointing compound. Do you use compound on your joints to the I-box as a matter of course?

Not sure how else to resolve the error as there is no way I can get another complete turn on the joint and it has to point upwards for the feed. It is extremely tight and I did it Hans Grohe’s recommended way. Any suggestions?

Cheers

 

[Brambles]

I use Loctite 577 on difficult / problematic joints. Very clean threads and no other jointing materials / tape to be used with or combined with the Loctite 577.

I boxes are generally difficult to get a good joint right first time. I pressure test them before closing in the rear of the box.

 

[Chalked]

Hi
all joints into the Ibox need sealing. Ptfe, is ok . But we use loctite 577, or loctite cord.

 

[balmain-by]

I use Loctite 577 on difficult / problematic joints. Very clean threads and no other jointing materials / tape to be used with or combined with the Loctite 577.

I boxes are generally difficult to get a good joint right first time. I pressure test them before closing in the rear of the box.

Thanks for that, I’ll get some in the morning and go again. Your help is appreciated.

Hi
all joints into the Ibox need sealing. Ptfe, is ok . But we use loctite 577, or loctite cord.

thanks chalked. I ordered the 577 today and should have delivery tomorrow. No supplier near me. I watched the Loctite YouTube for 577 and they recommend 24 hours after tightening before putting under pressure. Appreciate you response.

Paul

 

[Chalked]

As long as it’s tight , It will cure and hold pressure straight away.
male sure it’s clean and dry.

 

[balmain-by]

As long as it’s tight , It will cure and hold pressure straight away.
male sure it’s clean and dry.

As long as it’s tight , It will cure and hold pressure straight away.
male sure it’s clean and dry.

thanks to Brambles and Chalked. I finally was able to get some Loctite 577. I removed all the connections to the I-box and redid them with Loctite. I reinstalled it into the wall and connected the shower head feed. Reconnected the hot and cold feeds and all is well. Thanks for your help. Regards Paul