Honeywell 2 port zone valve not turning on

[Fieldbird]

There's power going to the valve head but the motor won't activate to turn the spindle to open the valve. The manual override will not activate the valve either. Should I replace the valve powered or Whole valve unit with pipe/spindle attached. My initial thinking the valve motor died and I would replace just that component but now I don't know if the motor is fine and maybe copper pipe spindle that the motor turns to open flow is seized and won't open.
It's on a 3 zone system with the other two zones operating fine. Also a new zone program controller was installed because I thought the controller's zone 2 selection switch was faulty.
Thank you

 

[Deleted member 120897]

• Have you tested the power going to the valve?
  If yes, then how?
• What is the voltage?
• Are you able to remove the head and check the spindle with your finger and thumb?

 

[Fieldbird]

• Have you tested the power going to the valve?
  If yes, then how?
• What is the voltage?
• Are you able to remove the head and check the spindle with your finger and thumb?

My brother who is an electrician tested the valve head and said power was being supplied. The voltage I don't know but I must assume it's okay if an electrician tested with a meter tool.
I haven't removed the head to inspect the spindle. Maybe I should but I'm unaware of if the spindle can be turned manually to check it's functioning capacity.
Normally would a spindle turn easily by trying do so manually. If it's easily turned manually and its seized I suspect that might be the issue. The fact the manual override doesn't click on with power going to the valve suggested the spindle issue I imagine?
Thanks for reply

 

[Ben-gee]

Yes should be able to turn with finger and thumb, if not then replace the whole valve and head as a unit.

 

[Deleted member 120897]

Normally would a spindle turn by trying do so manually?

Yes, if you can’t then use an adjustable spanner it should move quite freely, if not then it’s probably stuck/sludged up. If it moves freely then you could try the motor replacement, but sometimes easier to replace the head.

 

[steadyon]

1. If the motor in the valve head is powered and won't turn, it suggest to me that either the motor is faulty, or the valve is jammed.
2. If you mean by "manual override won't activate the valve" it won't fire the boiler, it doesn't. The boiler is fired when the motor runs, turns the quadrant gear inside the head, which at the end of its travel closes the microswitch which fire the boiler. The manual override doesn't turn the quadrant gear that far.
3. If you are sure it is a Honeywell valve, AND there is a small dimple bulging out from the metal of the cover, then the head can be removed without anything getting wet.
4. If you can, remove the head, and turn the spindle between thumb and forefinger. It should only move through an arc of around 20 or 30 degrees. If it won't turn by finger power, try a small pair of pliers and some very gentle effort.
5. If the spindle won't turn freely, replace the whole valve. This will mean draining down the system then refilling it.
6. If the spindle turns freely, then:
6a. You can replace the motor. It is called a Synchron motor. They're about £15 each. If you do this, you won't have to mess about wiring a new valve into the wiring centre. OR
6b. You can replace the actuator head. Expect to pay between £70 and £90. You can get just the actuator head but quite often its more expensive on its own than the whole valve.
7. Almost certainly the valves and their motors are mains powered. You must be confident you know what you are doing as there is a significant risk of a potentially fatal electric shock.

 

[John.g]

If you can pull the manual override lever slowly with one finger against the spring pressure then the valve isn't sticking (except the spindle is broken)

 

[Fieldbird]

Th

1. If the motor in the valve head is powered and won't turn, it suggest to me that either the motor is faulty, or the valve is jammed.
2. If you mean by "manual override won't activate the valve" it won't fire the boiler, it doesn't. The boiler is fired when the motor runs, turns the quadrant gear inside the head, which at the end of its travel closes the microswitch which fire the boiler. The manual override doesn't turn the quadrant gear that far.
3. If you are sure it is a Honeywell valve, AND there is a small dimple bulging out from the metal of the cover, then the head can be removed without anything getting wet.
4. If you can, remove the head, and turn the spindle between thumb and forefinger. It should only move through an arc of around 20 or 30 degrees. If it won't turn by finger power, try a small pair of pliers and some very gentle effort.
5. If the spindle won't turn freely, replace the whole valve. This will mean draining down the system then refilling it.
6. If the spindle turns freely, then:
6a. You can replace the motor. It is called a Synchron motor. They're about £15 each. If you do this, you won't have to mess about wiring a new valve into the wiring centre. OR
6b. You can replace the actuator head. Expect to pay between £70 and £90. You can get just the actuator head but quite often its more expensive on its own than the whole valve.
7. Almost certainly the valves and their motors are mains powered. You must be confident you know what you are doing as there is a significant risk of a potentially fatal electric shock.

Great information thank you!

 

[Fieldbird]

OK here