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hiretools

Hi, i just wanted to know if any 1 has any ideas about why the hot water comes out ok in my kitchen sink downstairs but upstairs in my bathroom my bath and sink come out sooo slowwww. i have a copper cylinder and boiler system with feed and expansion and water tanks in the loft copper boiler and gas boiler in the airing cupboard on same floor as my bathroom. sorry 4 the long expo any one help me pls fellas. :eek:
 
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it is not a recent problem i have replaced the pump in my airing cupboard and put in mixer taps in the sink and the bath but the water comes out quite slow then just gets slower i would say the problem is now quite old over 6 months any way
 
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well a pump can draw in air buy pulling it back down the open vent pipe, is there anyway you could turn the pump down a bit?

An Essex flange is a fitting you bore into the HW cylinder to take off to a pump. means the pump wont draw in air from the vent pipe.
 
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hello plamber listen geez the pump runs my heating and hot water (i think) i dont really know wot im doing just doing things by process of elimination so i will give u all the info i know and lets see if we can solve my problem (please god!) right i was having a prob with me radiators downstairs not workin and upstairs was workin so i replaced the pump and two x gate vales at the top and bottom of the pump. my pump is a three speed pump grundfos 15-50 it is currently on number 3. the thing is the old taps in my bath room were two seperate taps on the bath and sink (not mixers) so i put in a single tap in the sink left right operation and a mixer tap and shower on the bath.But even my electric shower comes out slower than b4 that is about all i know. It also has a motorised 3 way valve which is intermitant as im having to jam open the valve to solve the probs with my rads downstairs. so wot do u think then plamb am i up the creek without a paddle or wot m8. by the way the rad problem is now solved after balancing the system.:D:D:)
 
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can you turn down the pump to a lower setting? you also have an airlock at the moment. there is an "airlocks" thread on here somewhere that will help you solve that. give that a try and see how it goes.
 
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what a load of hypothesis - arrggggg!

Guys you dont know anything unless you have seen the set up, and none of you have given any good advice!

1) It is very unlikely that the pump boosts the hot supply - it is for the rads 99 times out of 100

2) Something simple - did you open the mains stopcock fully when you last isolated? This would effect your electric shower at least.

3) Restrictive new taps on the bath and shower are most likely your problem - are they high or low pressure taps? Did you alter the feed pipes in any way(like by adding flow restricting flexis by any chance??)

4) Airlocks do happen, but the explaination is likely more simple. Everyone cries 'arilock' as soon as they cant explain a problem!!

Main thing is if the flow has changed since you have done work, then something you did must have changed the set up somehow.

Let me know how you get on . . .
 
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Avatar hello m8 this is hiretools.To tell u the truth m8 i have no idea the work that i did was all i have done apart from take the shower off when redoing the bathroom and replaced it after tiling with a new chrome shower pipe but came from same feed as last shower pipe in the same place so ? the thing that im finding is a lack of circulation in everything and after i did the washing machine hose hot to cold routine my boiler went cold and i just dont know why im having these problems but even now my rads are still playin up going hot and then as soon as u touch the boiler or heating thermostast and the system starts up it reverts back to playing up again i have balanced the system and everything was working (except the water problem) now i just dont know but my main concern is the hot water flow i have a copper boiler honeywell thermostat st699 a honeywell motorised vale v4037a and a grundfos 15-50 130 pump 3 speed. The Header tank and Cold water tank are in the loft the rest is down a level in the airing cupboard upstairs any ideas at all avatar bruv.:confused:

Hello Avatar m8 listen i dont know whether the taps are high or low pressure as i bought the bathroom suite online but i have to say that the pressure was a bit better b4 i installed it and as for the mains stopcock b4 isolation i shut off the cold water from outside my house and shut down the boile and hot water system as well i cant seem to understand what the stopcock thing has to do with the shower it just seem to come out a bit quicker b4 do u have a answer to wot i could try pls geez i would appreciate it and cheers for the last message as well

Hello Avatar m8 listen i dont know whether the taps are high or low pressure as i bought the bathroom suite online but i have to say that the pressure was a bit better b4 i installed it and as for the mains stopcock b4 isolation i shut off the cold water from outside my house and shut down the boile and hot water system as well i cant seem to understand what the stopcock thing has to do with the shower it just seem to come out a bit quicker b4 do u have a answer to wot i could try pls geez i would appreciate it and cheers for the last message as well
 
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grunfoss centrall heating pump will have nothing to do with the preasure on your taps
water downstairs on a tank fed system is always better down stairs as there more head from the tank
some taps especially those from cheap outlets are often imports made to work on high preasure water and as such will restrict flow on a low preasure system like yours
 
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Hello steve right i understand the pump has nothing to do with the flow fair enough.I have another question if u can help me out, how comes my rads downstairs r struggling to come on even though i have changed the pump and changed the two gate valves at the top and bottom of the pump. Also i have two valves on each rad and with the downstairs ones open fully on one side and on the valve with the numbers on it at number 3 they stay hot and then i repeat the process upstairs but only put them on number two on the numbered valve but only open the other vsalves a couple of turns to keep the heat everywhere how comes this is. :confused::confused:
 
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Tell you
the truth a problem like this is tricky when you are on site!

Bite the bullet and call in a proffessional - it may be worth £50 to get someone to at least tell you what to do.

Do check the stopcockd are on full, as this would effect some of the outlets.

Best advice - would come over meslf!!!
 
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Plamber said:
Have you tried to see if any airlock cure helped?
Click to expand...
i have tried every airlock cure known to exist but to tell u the truth m8 i think the motorised 3 way valve is knackered as i have had to jam it open the other day to see if it helped and in doin so i think i was a bit brutal does this sound like it could be at fault considering it is the downstairs rads that are affected.?

Avatar said:
Tell you
the truth a problem like this is tricky when you are on site!

Bite the bullet and call in a proffessional - it may be worth £50 to get someone to at least tell you what to do.

Do check the stopcockd are on full, as this would effect some of the outlets.

Best advice - would come over meslf!!!
Click to expand...
i have tried every airlock cure known to exist but to tell u the truth m8 i think the motorised 3 way valve is knackered as i have had to jam it open the other day to see if it helped and in doin so i think i was a bit brutal does this sound like it could be at fault considering it is the downstairs rads that are affected.?
 
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hiretools said:
i have tried every airlock cure known to exist but to tell u the truth m8 i think the motorised 3 way valve is knackered as i have had to jam it open the other day to see if it helped and in doin so i think i was a bit brutal does this sound like it could be at fault considering it is the downstairs rads that are affected.?


i have tried every airlock cure known to exist but to tell u the truth m8 i think the motorised 3 way valve is knackered as i have had to jam it open the other day to see if it helped and in doin so i think i was a bit brutal does this sound like it could be at fault considering it is the downstairs rads that are affected.?
Click to expand...

1) turn off boiler
2) when pipes are cold turn on and call for hot water only
3) check that the right pipes are heating up before and after motorised valve
4) turn off hot water then call for heating - repeat particully look at the heating flow pipe out of valve - does it heat up properly or partially ?
Unless it is the same temp as the pipe running up to he vavlve then it needs replacing . . .

This is how we do it!!
 
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Avatar said:
1) turn off boiler
2) when pipes are cold turn on and call for hot water only
3) check that the right pipes are heating up before and after motorised valve
4) turn off hot water then call for heating - repeat particully look at the heating flow pipe out of valve - does it heat up properly or partially ?
Unless it is the same temp as the pipe running up to he vavlve then it needs replacing . . .

This is how we do it!!
Click to expand...
i am going to sound dumb where are the right pipes located pls avatar i think u know wot system i have from previous posts m8 cheers geez.

Avatar said:
1) turn off boiler
2) when pipes are cold turn on and call for hot water only
3) check that the right pipes are heating up before and after motorised valve
4) turn off hot water then call for heating - repeat particully look at the heating flow pipe out of valve - does it heat up properly or partially ?
Unless it is the same temp as the pipe running up to he vavlve then it needs replacing . . .

This is how we do it!!
Click to expand...
also av the thermostat h/w and c/h programmer doesn't fire up the boiler if i just put the heating switch on only.T he heating only comes on when i put the h/w switch on as well also my motorised valve box makes a funny wirring noise if the heating switch is on only like its trying to start up odd.
 
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you have said you dont know what you are doing earlier, for gods sake, call in a professional, its their work they know what are doing and things may work properly again. diy can only go so far and from what i have read you are way down a one way sreet the wrong way
 
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I concur - if you dont know the right pipes then . . .

It does sound that the motorised valve is defective, but it could cost £60+ to put a new one in and you may make something else go wrong if you dont do it correctly.

Besides you can come unstuck when you start out on a monoblock tap - man heating systems are damn complicated and you better know what you are doing.

I have seen systems that have made me think twice, and I knwo what i am doing!!

Mind here is a very good book for those of you who want to know some more about this subject.

[ame=http://www.amazon.co.uk/Central-Heating-Fault-Finding-Repair/dp/0954601300/ref=pd_sim_b_2]Central Heating: Fault Finding and Repair: Amazon.co.uk: John Reginald: Books[/ame]

Remember though - a little knowlage does a lot of harm . . . .
 
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