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T

tdlynn

Hi there,

I wonder if I can ask your advice.

We have (I believe) and open vented, gravity fed system with a very old boiler in the kitchen. We have noticed a drip of water coming out of the overflow from our F&E tank dripping onto the conservatory roof.

As it's the summer, obviously the heating has not been running however the timer has not been altered, just not heating due to the room thermostat being turned down.

I have been up to the the F&E tank, high up on the landing and notice that there was hot water running through the vent pipe. The water is quite sludgy and murky too.

The water level is well below the overflow pipe building up on the pipe
and dripping out, but the water in there is hot and condensation was on the inside of the lid.

i presume the water dripping out of the overflow is caused by the condensation and I presume we should not be getting hot water through the vent pipe when on HW only?

i changed the three way valve (port and body) a few months back but I am fairly sure that this has been doing this for some time as the pipe has dripped for a good couple of years I believe.

Any thoughts? I've googled extensively with various thoughts but just thought I'd ask before getting a plumber in!

The pump is set to setting 1.

Thanks

Tom
 
Maybe as mike suggested or it might simply be the diaphragm on the inlet valve needs replacing. Basically instead of closing it drips constantly into tank until it overflows. I'd try this b4 anything .
 
Pumping over need sorting. It's introducing fresh oxegen into the system, this mKes the sludge and rots your radiators. The position of the feed and vent connections needs sorting. Also needs a power flush.
could be a ball valve too!
 
Thanks all for your quick replies.

It doesn't appear to be the ball valve as the water seems to be coming in through the vent pipe (bent over the f&e tank) not the inlet.

Water was dripping out of the overflow so I immediately went to the tank and it was coming in the vent pipe (hot) and was well below the overflow which led me to believe that it was condensation running down the pipe and dripping outside.

My thought was sludge/a blockage.

I am cautious about getting a plumber to powerflush etc as it's such an old boiler.. Although funds are limited I wonder whether I am spending good money on an old, rusty boiler.

What do you think a ballpark figure for changing a system like mine into a combi would be? I'm based in the South East.

Thanks for your advice guys!
 
OK. If its coming through vent then circulation or overheat problem is what u have. Deco call in the good guys as isn't a quick fix.
 
Tdlynn,

When you signed onto this site why on earth did you not put where you lived, there maybe a member of the site living less than minutes away, people come on the site expecting there to be one simple answer to their problems, this will without doubt set people guessing for an answer for you, this will then confuse you more, there is only one way for you to get to the bottom of your problems, get someone who knows what they are doing in your house for about 15 mins, if they have not got the answer in that time then you have the wrong man.

I am not going to even attempt to guess what your problem is and I have been in the trade 55 years, where do you live will be a better start, you might live near me you can see where I live.

Tony

Your problem is common in trade, known simply has a pumping over problem and there should be no hot water in the small expansion tank ever, never ever.
 
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blocked cold feed due to sludge

+1 Try using a magnet around all the pipework in your airing cupboard, it won't be attracted to the copper but will if there is sludge in there.
Probably needs to be cut out and cleared, followed by a good flush.
If you convert to a combi system it will be even more important to have the system cleaned properly.
 
Hi guys im not really into heating repairs my pal has this scenario pumping over into header tank hot coming through vent pipe, tank feed to heating also hot there is only one 2 port valve to heating. Up to cylinder is directly pumped.There is no cylinder stat or no room stat on system also the upstairs radiators become hot when only on hot water.My plan was to cut in another zone valve (turning it into an S plan) fitting a room stat and also a cylinder stat and fit a diff automatic bypass valve after pump but before any zone valves as per normal practice.Would this work in theory guys cheers..brum
 
Normally in my experience if it's an old system and started pumping over, it's a circulation issue, normally a blocked cold feed. Or overheat caused by poor circulation.

Get a magnet around pipework in airing cupboard and find the blockage.

Best bet is to do as you say and upgrade to an S Plan, but at same time, drain/clean header tank, cut out cold feed and vent and position them in correct place (if not already) and give it a flush through.
 
Normally in my experience if it's an old system and started pumping over, it's a circulation issue, normally a blocked cold feed. Or overheat caused by poor circulation.

Get a magnet around pipework in airing cupboard and find the blockage.

Best bet is to do as you say and upgrade to an S Plan, but at same time, drain/clean header tank, cut out cold feed and vent and position them in correct place (if not already) and give it a flush through.

cheers bud would you rec a chemical flush only or a power/chemical flush.would feel un easy with a powerflush to be honest don't think pwk up to it and replacing pwk now is not feasible but if its needed to rectify problem then hey ho thanks..brum
 
If you cut out and replace blocked sections of pipework, clean F&E tank and refill, will probably get away with leaving F3 in for a week and then draining out.

Also if your converting to a fully pumped Splan, then you could do a lot worse than fitting a filter.
 
There may be some misunderstanding in this description. You don't have three port MV's on a gravity system. It must be fully pumped. Once this is established, next thing to look at, is the pipe configuration correct? (open vent/cold feed/pump) Then put your hand in your pocket and get the system power flushed with special attention to the cold feed.
 
There may be some misunderstanding in this description. You don't have three port MV's on a gravity system. It must be fully pumped. Once this is established, next thing to look at, is the pipe configuration correct? (open vent/cold feed/pump) Then put your hand in your pocket and get the system power flushed with special attention to the cold feed.

I was replying to Brum, sounds like he has some kind of C plan opposite way round? Never seen it but could work I guess?

But agree whatever layout it is cold feed/vent/pump configuration is essential to get right and cleared.
 
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