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Discuss How to fit pump to hot water basin tap on conventional system? in the Bathroom Advice area at Plumbers Forums

T

thescottparkin

Hi, My names Scott and I've just passed my level 2 plumbing and I've been given my first job on my own.

On the job the customers hot water tap on the basin in the bathroom is coming out really slow and he's asked me to check it out to see if I can fix it but I've never really worked with pumps so I don't no how to install one its on a convention system. I've told him it could be the waster in the tap coursing it but he's saying it's already been checked and I've asked all the engineers in my work and there saying a pumps the only thing to fit then so just thought I'd ask you lot to, I've got a pump here but it's a hot and cold pump and I've been told just to cap the cold and just us the hot side of the pump that's another thing can I do that?, thanks
 
installing a pump on one tap is a waste of time and money. If all the other taps are ok, then the faults with the tap or pipework. re using a twin impellor pump for one outlet only, bit of a waste of more money and I would doubt if it lasted long being unbalanced at one end.
 
Thanks for the reply mate what would you do? Do you think I should take the tap of see what the pressures like though the pipe work or do you think it could be the washer? Just worried it being my first job ye see haha
 
If you were even considering using a pump for just one hot tap, then i'd suggest you aren't ready to go out working on your own yet.

Try and work with someone experienced in maintenance and fault finding. You will learn a hundred times more with a good plumber than you ever did at college.
 
My firms just heating so I don't get to do any plumbing with am kind of Gutted about but I've started going out with one of the lads in my work doing bathrooms so I'm picking more up now :) and I've been told to use a pump bu at least 8 engineers that's why I've come here because I didn't think there was a point for one tap haha
 
It depends on what type of plumbing system is there. If it is a gravity fed system with a copper hot cylinder somewhere and a cold tank in attic supplying the water at pressure, then full flow hot taps should work okay. But if the cold water tank is a bit lower, like on same floor level high in a cupboard that some flats have, then you won't get good flow.
You most likely have a faulty hot tap which is very common. Check the works and washer, as well as any valve below it. The standard modern works (washered type) are in 3 parts, - an outer casing with a spindle part that screws into a lower hexagon " piston" part with the washer on end of it. It often is this lower bit that has worn O ring that causes the two parts to come apart and keep tap near closed. O ring wears flat (especially on hot taps) and let's water into works. Just Vaseline or silicone grease the works and put them together if it seems decent and it might last a while. Perhaps you should first practice on an old tap if some plumber gets you one, to see how they come in bits & go together again. Good luck taking the spindle out as that can be hard to do as they are a metal to metal fit. I sometimes have to remove tap, take the head off & put the squared part of spindle into a vice and tap the spout of the tap with a hammer & piece of wood to slacken.
Sometimes you can be lucky to buy spare works that fit some taps that the works are too worn. Or you can get new pair of conversion heads with works, but basic cheap taps are often better replaced with new taps which can be very cheap.
Sorry it's a lot of wording for just a tap.
 
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From what he's told me his cylinder is in the next room from the bathroom and his tanks are in the attic his down stairs taps are ok and his cold tap is ok in the wet room but the hot tap is coming out really slow in his words "I **** faster then the tap" I'm going to check the washer in the tap and also check the pressure in the pipe without the tap
 
From what he's told me his cylinder is in the next room from the bathroom and his tanks are in the attic his down stairs taps are ok and his cold tap is ok in the wet room but the hot tap is coming out really slow in his words "I **** faster then the tap" I'm going to check the washer in the tap and also check the pressure in the pipe without the tap

I didn't think anyone was up at this time of morning! :smile: Check if tap head only turns a few turns compared with same cold tap. Classic symptom of faulty works or washer enlarged. On taps with airator on end of spout, make sure the airator is clean as it is really like a fine filter & will block flow if dirty, but usually only get them on mixer taps.
 
He's told me the wet room is 5 years old he said he's had the taps checked there fine but like people are saying on here don't trust the customer Ive taken taps apart before I'll give it a heck all this information is helping me out because college is no help and I work for a heating firm so I don't do any plumbing at all so not getting the experience do the odd bathroom with one of the lads but need to no more about faults etc.
 
Might be worth checking first - 1, is there an isolating valve to the tap & is it full open?
2, is there a flexi hose to it & kinked?
3, Does the tap turn open full number of times cold tap does?
4, Then remove works to see if anything wrong.
Everyday you learn. I come across loads of stuff I have never seen before, including oddball taps. Just do as you are doing now, - think it over before you start. Good luck & get back to us as & when you need.
 
I should have mentioned if nothing obvious is wrong with tap works when you remove it or washer or blocked nozzle on end of tap spout, then you could try putting your hand over the open tap body & turn the isolating valve (if fitted) on to see if decent flow.
I have seen a lump of crud blocking the nozzle outlet or the pipe/flexi. Especially on hot taps as you can get bits of scale coming from hot cylinders or other dirt originating from cold water tanks, some of which have no proper lids. Even fibreglass roof space insulation falls into tanks & blocks outlets
 
So just put my hand over the tap turn the isolation valve on and do you think I could give the tanks a quick check as well then just incase something has fallen into it?

Yes, perhaps use a rag if the water might be hot. Always good to check if the water is getting to the tap.
If you are at the cold water tank, then certainly take a good look at it to see if proper cover is on it & no debris inside it. See a lot where the plumber has just drilled holes for pipes and left the bits of plastic that later float around & get into pipes.
Very important you be careful if having to turn off supply valve from cold tank to avoid the red headed gate valves if possible. Very risky turning them off as they break inside & you end up with having to replace the valve on a tank full of water. If you can, reach down inside the tank & bung the correct outlet with a rubber bung kit, or similar. I carry replacement gate valves for when they break.
Lever valves are much better.
 
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If it is only one tap with the problem, then 9 times out of 10, it's gunna be that tap at fault...
Still... you live and learn mate! Sometimes coming up against these problems is the only way you will learn for yourself. You will know exactly what to do next time.

All the best.
 

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