how to level wall in shower before tiling

[nhenderson]

hi, i hope someone can help. i have an existing recessed shower area where we have taken down tiles etc and fitted new shower traty. however one wall (on the right as looking at pic) is totally uneven. i started levelling with bonding but then read that its not a good idea if going to tile after. i cant board as its too uneven and the walls (crumbly breeze block) wont hold screws well. am i ok to fit a bead at front edge (thinking of using one of those rendering larger ones) and levelling off with wickes one coat patching plaster. then leave for couple of weeks before tiling? also do i fit beading with the plaster or use plsater adhesive?
ive plastered a few times before so comfortable doing it but just want to know its the correct thing. also the gap i am filling out is about 20mm and the tiles are the ceramic 60x 30 ones)

any help much appreciatedx and ave added (pic here hi,

any help much appreciatedx and ave added pic here - www.flyingkiwi.com/contact-form/img/IMG00007-20120828-1651 (1).jpg
thaz
thanks
neil

 

[SimonG]

More easily answered on the tilers forum, but I would be dot and dabbing a board to the wall or fixing some hardibacker or aquapanel to the wall and then tiling on top of that.

Oh and welcome to the forum Neil.

 

[nhenderson]

thanks for that - i thought of dot dabbing but the gaps are hgue

 

[PlumbBobBob]

i would do as simon says and over board with hardibacker then you wont have to wait two weeks to tile

 

[nhenderson]

thanks guys - in no rush though and afraid walll is too faar out for board?

 

[Phil]

Not clear from pic but can that breeze block wall be replaced with studwork? If so do it.

 

[nhenderson]

thanks phil = unfortunately not as some fittings on other side

 

[Thoggy]

Like the other guys have said dot and dab just put plenty on if your unsure

 

[Dave]

Seen your thread over on our sister tilers forum.

If those blocks are soft and fixings will not take, then you cannot overboard with hardibacker etc , as you have to mechanical fix as well.

Chop all the plaster back to the blocks and then dot/ dab PB and then tank to waterproof. Tank all walls that will be subject to wetting.

 

[WHPES]

Whatever you do, don't use plasterboard anywhere. Use aquapanel or hardibacker

When I encounter that situation I use shower panel instead of tiling as you don't need to spend ages on preparation.

 

[Guest123]

Strap the wall out with batons. Fit your first baton to the wall that is projecting out the furthest and use a long spirit level on the baton and pack it out with shingles or timber behind the baton until it's level. After you have the first baton level, use your level on the next one and pack out accordingly. Fit the batons 300mm centres horizontally. Then you can fit Hardibacker board to the batons with screws or water resistant plasterboard. If you have problems getting a fixing into the block, use Gripfill to fix the batons.

An advantage of using batons is that you can fit insulation as well.

 

[petercj]

Why not take that plaster, or whatever it is, baton both sides, and cement render the area?

If you don't fancy it, get someone to do it for you, probably won't cost any more than buying expensive boards, and you will have a solid and flat surface to work on.