How to replace cold water supply line without using a torch or soldering any fittings. | UK Plumbers Forums | Plumbers Forums

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Discuss How to replace cold water supply line without using a torch or soldering any fittings. in the UK Plumbers Forums area at Plumbers Forums

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I would like to simply cut the flex copper pipe off just past the cut-off valve and attach a Shartbite male fitting or a compression fitting on the remaining copper stub which would be 7/8 inch in length after the cut. Would that meet code? Live in North Texas.

Thanks,

Don
 

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I think you need much more length for the sharkbite fitting, compression possibly but it'll be tight. The problem I suspect you'll actually have is by cutting the flexi copper which is uusually thin gauge you'll distort or damage the integrity of the pipe which might render using either impossible. Looks like an earth on one connection which you don't want to touch, get someone into to remove and solder in a small pipe extension for both.
 
I think you need much more length for the sharkbite fitting, compression possibly but it'll be tight. The problem I suspect you'll actually have is by cutting the flexi copper which is uusually thin gauge you'll distort or damage the integrity of the pipe which might render using either impossible. Looks like an earth on one connection which you don't want to touch, get someone into to remove and solder in a small pipe extension for both.

Thank you for your reply. I am trying to make this a DIY water heater replacement, but the city requires a homeowner's permit if I DIY it. I did get an estimate of $150 from a plumber to solder a copper male fitting onto each line, but the homeowner's permit requires that I do all of the work myself; I cannot have a plumber help in any way.
An electrician friend told me to just move the ground & clamp back into the wall, but I am concerned that using a Sharkbite fitting might disrupt the ground to the heater since it uses a rubber seal. Not even sure if the ground is there for the heater since the ground is the primary ground to the electric load center & the ground rod is the secondary ground.
Looks like I might just have to hire a plumber to do the install.
 

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