I'm having trouble removing my radiator, how do I cut off the water supply?

[d3v]

Hi all, my radiator that I'm trying to remove to fix a cracked pipe features a thermostatic valve. Upon removing this valve I found a brass plunger that needs to be depressed to cut off the water supply to the radiator however I need some sort of threaded cap to keep this brass plunger in the down position. Does anyone know what these are called and if they come in different sizes?

Pics to follow...

thanks.

 

[1967skyblue]

when a tvr is fitted to the rad there should be a spare cap that come with it for this purpuse, however i find you explain this to the customer and they end up throwing them away until they realise they need one,, pop to your local murchants they should have some there

 

[Koogatubac]

Just leave the thermostat head on and in the off position

 

[erpkid]

Just leave the thermostat head on and in the off position

As long as the room stays warm if the off is a frost setting ! Been there and ruined the carpet....

 

[d3v]

Here's the photos with some captions I added for clarity. Any help much appreciated!

Just leave the thermostat head on and in the off position

Hi, I tried that but upon removing the nut that connects the feed pipe to the radiator it was spraying water all over. I think the off position on the thermostat is not quite fully off, but allows some water to pass? Is this correct?

when a tvr is fitted to the rad there should be a spare cap that come with it for this purpuse, however i find you explain this to the customer and they end up throwing them away until they realise they need one,, pop to your local murchants they should have some there

Well when we moved in here there were no such caps left here, it's been problem after problem with this house, this is just the latest and no doubt not the last! I can ask a plumbers merchant for one however what are they called?

 

[lame plumber]

the cracked nut seems to be below the rad so you need a complete drain down or freeze the pipe to the rad then drain the rad having shut the lockshied at the other end, then replace the damaged nut, probably good time to pop on a new trv now anyhow. If youve no idea what im on about call in a plumber who has.

 

[Best]

If the nut is cracked - I can't see as the photo is poor, then the valve, nut & olive can be taken off & replaced easily without draining, but by a pro. Few minute job.

 

[d3v]

the cracked nut seems to be below the rad so you need a complete drain down or freeze the pipe to the rad then drain the rad having shut the lockshied at the other end, then replace the damaged nut, probably good time to pop on a new trv now anyhow. If youve no idea what im on about call in a plumber who has.

Hi, I did shut the lockshield off at the other end by turning the nob all the way anti-clockwise then even unscrewing the nob and nipping the valve a little to ensure it was completely closed yet when I unscrewed the nut at the other end (shown in photo below) water was streaming out from the feed pipe. I'm guessing all I need is the dust cap to properly depress the little brass plunger which will cut off the water supply to the radiator and then repeat what I did earlier today?

If the nut is cracked - I can't see as the photo is poor, then the valve, nut & olive can be taken off & replaced easily without draining, but by a pro. Few minute job.

Hi, the photo clearly shows the crack down the length of the nut, it's a complete crack not partial.

 

[Best]

But why are you trying to remove the rad just to fix the cracked nut? And to do that would risk the valve with the cracked nut leaking very badly!
The lock shield valve on the other side to the Trv is all that's important as with that way all you have is a single live pipe to deal with.
If you really want to try to fix it yourself & are not too confident, then you will need to drain the system to that level. Or just get a pro in to sort it in a few minutes hopefully. Is it a sealed system or is it an open system with a small expansion tank in attic for the heating ?

 

[lame plumber]

But why are you trying to remove the rad just to fix the cracked nut? And to do that would risk the valve with the cracked nut leaking very badly!
The lock shield valve on the other side to the Trv is all that's important as with that way all you have is a single live pipe to deal with.
If you really want to try to fix it yourself & are not too confident, then you will need to drain the system to that level. Or just get a pro in to sort it in a few minutes hopefully. Is it a sealed system or is it an open system with a small expansion tank in attic for the heating ?

Arent you going to tell him how a pro would do it? me I just pop my freezer on it but i dont think he'll have one

 

[Best]

Arent you going to tell him how a pro would do it? me I just pop my freezer on it but i dont think he'll have one

I don't mind telling him how to do it live, but just afraid it might end up a disaster if anything goes wrong & I would feel guilty! :smile:
I thought the freezing method wasn't the best idea for DIY & was thinking maybe locking the water was the easiest.
I used to change them totally live with my father, - new nuts & olives if needed also. With two people it was easier & one could always hold the water in the pipe while the other fetched tools or anything. We used old towels, large sheets over & under the pipe & a split second swap!

 

[lame plumber]

He's asking, i offered my opinion p6, get in a man that knows, he continued asking, so theres going to be a job out there for someone nearby!!

 

[d3v]

But why are you trying to remove the rad just to fix the cracked nut? And to do that would risk the valve with the cracked nut leaking very badly!
The lock shield valve on the other side to the Trv is all that's important as with that way all you have is a single live pipe to deal with.
If you really want to try to fix it yourself & are not too confident, then you will need to drain the system to that level. Or just get a pro in to sort it in a few minutes hopefully. Is it a sealed system or is it an open system with a small expansion tank in attic for the heating ?

Well the way everything screws together it looks like the radiator must be removed in order to strip the valve down enough to get at the cracked nut? I'm all ears if you think otherwise. I think it's a sealed system as there is no water tank in the loft. the boiler is a BOSCH GREENSTAR 24i junior if that helps.

 

[Best]

5 minute job I bet I could do it in. (hope it's not pure White carpets though!)
If the customers not there, then it's a 3 hour drain & fill back up charge! :grin:

 

[Best]

Well the way everything screws together it looks like the radiator must be removed in order to strip the valve down enough to get at the cracked nut? I'm all ears if you think otherwise. I think it's a sealed system as there is no water tank in the loft. the boiler is a BOSCH GREENSTAR 24i junior if that helps.

You are lucky if it is sealed system as all you need is the pressure completely off the system from any point, like a drain off - should take only a minute or so to take it fully down. Turn your boiler off first! If there are no auto vents open (close their caps if there are any) then the water will be locked in the system & this means you can open one pipe in the system without water coming out. Just turn the lockshield valve off & remove the other valve & stick a rag in the rad valve tail from rad. Cut the olive off by cutting it nearly through with a junior hacksaw & split it with a smallish slotted screwdriver & pull nut off & fit new valve but don't over tighten it! The old valve hopefully will have enough sideways movement on the pipe to pull off tail first. Fill the system up again.

 

[lame plumber]

he thinks its sealed????????? could be fun idc

 

[d3v]

Thanks guys, epsp Best. I will buy a new nut tomorrow, or maybe a new valve all together. Why do I need to cut through the olive? Can't it it lift off the feed pipe?

 

[PlumbBobBob]

you have to cut the olive off because it will have compressed against the pipe to form the seal

 

[Best]

Thanks guys, epsp Best. I will buy a new nut tomorrow, or maybe a new valve all together. Why do I need to cut through the olive? Can't it it lift off the feed pipe?

The olive will have been slightly compressed into the pipe, - if it wasn't the nut & valve would fall off the pipe & you would have a big leak! You need a chrome 15mm nut & copper or brass olive but probably best a whole new Trv. A local plumber might do a wee job like that for very little money.

 

[tamz]

A local plumber might do a wee job like that for very little money.

Maybe the "Best" advice to follow here.

 

[Koogatubac]

Agree, 5min job for a pro to do it live without draining down. All u need is:
- grips
- spanner
- 15mm olive cutters
- plenty of towels

And a new 15mm nut and olive (also smear some paste on the olive)

Drain the pressure if its a combi though through your PRV

 

[dancinplumba]

Agree, 5min job for a pro to do it live without draining down. All u need is:
- grips
- spanner
- 15mm olive cutters
- plenty of towels

And a new 15mm nut and olive (also smear some paste on the olive)

Drain the pressure if its a combi though through your PRV

dont unless you want to have to replace your prv

 

[vern]

[/B]
dont unless you want to have to replace your prv

Deffo not on a WB!

 

[dancinplumba]

Deffo not on a WB!

nah, just the whole boiler

 

[d3v]

Hi all, I picked up the TRV from a local plumbers merchants early this morning and after much trial and error with draining the boiler and turning off the water supply under the kitchen sink I finally managed to stop the flow of water from the inlet pipe that feeds the radiator.

From then on it was easy, just had to pry off the old valve that was stuck to the old olive, and didn't have any paste so used a nicely fitting ring I had in an o-ring kit. It works perfect, no leaks at all. Thanks for all your help guys!