JAPKAP high level cistern restoration help!

[Clare Curling]

hello,
I’m currently attempting (with very little knowledge) to renovate an old
JAPKAP toilet cistern.

I’ve so far fixed the wooden box, the lead is fine and flush arm is being re-cast.

However I’m really unsure of how to repair the flush pipe (I think that’s what it’s called) as it was sheered off.

Some have suggested that the copper
Pipe is just soldered in and can be removed and replaced with 35mm replacement, however through a bit of reading I’m wondering if this is actually a solid part of the syphon itself. If so, is there a way of joining to the broken part.

I’ve attached some pics for hopefully some advice and ideas of how to repair this section.

Thanks again,

Clare

 

[Sharp Point]

Heat the broken part up with a blowtorch and see if any solder starts to bubble out

 

[Ben-gee]

That is not the flush pipe, it is the down leg of the syphon.
What are you trying to achieve? By which I mean - a functioning lavatory, or a fully restored one.
If the former I would be tempted to offer up the two sections and solder a copper ring, made from flattening a cut open piece of 22mm copper pipe, as a bandage.
If you can't do this, try the same thing using a fibreglass repair kit (matting and resin).

 

[Clare Curling]

Thank you, I would like to achieve as fully functioning restoration as possible.

A repair sounds like a good option, although the pipe is around 35mm.

Would the pipe have been originally soldered in. I might give that a try. (Or find a plumber locally to help!) like I said, never tried anything like this before so a big learning curve.

Thanks again.

 

[Last Plumber]

The siphon will probably be antimonial lead and the melting point will be higher than lead/tin solder but you could easily reach that with a blow lamp. You need to take care as it would be a shame to damage the main siphon by trying to remove the tube.
Is there not enough room above the flange to sleeve/wrap/socket joint it using either lead, copper or a socket? to bring the two back together.
Is that not a brass tube?
You could try to make a piece of copper sheet fit around the tube and the top of the flange lip, then seem solder it out of position and eventually solder it in place but be careful to wrap the antimony in wet tissue to keep it cool and use a low melting point lead solder.
It is worth taking time over. You will need to dress the Copper at the wider end to make it fit. Copper work hardens so anneal it as necessary. The tube and flange lip will need to be very clean before soldering.