Just a few questions.

[Aaron]

Im hopeing to start a plumbing course in september for college but before i can get a placement i need to complete an assignment given to me by the college.

The assignment is to fit an outside tap through the wall from the kitchen sink and connected to the cold water supply in a 15mm copper tube.
The to do list is .

- List materials and fittings you will need.
- Produce a neat sketch off a finished system
- Write a numbered step by step list off how i would complete the tast
- Include what tools i would use

So far my material's and fitting's ive come up with are .

Plastic retaining clips / Screws / plugs / compression nuts / 15mm copper tube / double check valve / olives / isolation valve / 22mm plastic pipe / 15mm diameter pipe / Outside tap kit.

The tools ive come up with so far are .

Power Drill / Hacksaw| Pipe cutter / flex connector / file / pliers / adjustable spanner.

im also curious as to how long something like this would take? ive been told roughly two hour's but don't want to just go on one person's word as some people work quicker than others.

i have written my step by step list so all i need to do is to write a letter to the family explaining how the work will affect them and how much he cost off everything. i.e materials/fittings tools and stuff.

if anyone has noticed anything materials or fitting's ive missed out or are willing to help me out a little please let me know any help given will be written down and will be greatly appreciated.

 

[nick99]

Hi Arron, just joined this forum today, as for your outside tap job i'd say you've got the tool list there although you probably wouldn't need a junior hacksaw and file if your using pipe slicers or cutters.
Yes the job would vary in time as too access to the pipes etc....but should take any thing between 45mins and 2hour max i'd say as its a straight forward enough job.
One thing i would do (to gain brownie points for yourself would be to fit a ball valve/isolation valve onto a tee piece where ever you decide to break into the pipework for the outside tap feed so you can then turn off the new ball valve as soon as you have fitted it then turn the mains back on so 1 The customer can have their water back on asap before you complete the job...2 It takes a bit of pressure off you in completing the work time wise.
All in all, you've got most of the fittings/tools etc sorted, the only thing i read that was missing was your blowtorch and solder....Maybe some Henry cloth or wire wool to clean the pipe ends and the inside of the fittings if your using capillary/soldered fittings.
Hope this little bit of info helps you.
Nick

 

[Mikey456]

Do not put ball valve down thats what you find in your toilet cistern and storage tanks.

 

[Aaron]

thankyou very much nick appreciate your help il add them asap!.

 

[Aaron]

Do not put ball valve down thats what you find in your toilet cistern and storage tanks.

okay thankyou for the head's up.

 

[WaterTight]

...o-fix

 

[nick99]

Ball valve as in a ballofix valve not one that goes on a cistern or F&E Tank.....Sorry if i confused this.
Thanks

 

[Aaron]

for the solder im not sure about. this is my step by step manual guide, i have no experience in plumbing what so ever so it might not be the best but this is what i did.

Step 1 - Turning off the water supply.
. I would make sure the water supply is off before I did anything.
. Once i have turned off the water supply i would run the cold tap until the water stops running and the system is completely drained.

Step 2 - Drilling a hole through your external wall.

. First I would to bore a hole through your outside wall for connecting pipe work.
. Now I would need to position your outdoor tap at least 250mm above damb-proof course, and then mark the screw holes where the tap will sit.
. Then I would use a 15mm diameter pipe to connect to the cold water supply inside the house. I would position the hole for this about 150mm above where the tap is positioned
. Before I start any sort of drilling i would need to run a 15mm diameter pipe through a piece off 22mm diameter plastic pipe. the reason being it will act as a sleeve, which will stop the pipes rubbing and a possible leak if the pipes were to burst.
. I would then drill a hole wide enough to fit the 22mm diameter plastic pipe sleeve.
. Then at a Slow and steadily pace i would drill through the wall with a heavy duty power drill using a large masonry bit at least 325 mm long.
. Once finished drilling I would remove the core bit regularly to clear loosened masonry and let the drill bit cool down for 5/10 seconds.

Step 3 - Pipe work for the outside tap.
. then Using the body off the isolation valve as a guide i would mark the exact section of pipe that needs removing.
. Next i would cut through the cold water pipe using a pipe slicer and then make sure to file the ends off the pipe smooth. Once completed I would slide a compression nut onto each piece off pipe followed by olives.
. Now to connect one end off a short piece off pipe to the T-piece and the other end to an isolation valve, so that the water supply to the new tap can we cut off when needed in the future.
. Next i would need to connect the isolation valve to the double check valve using the bit off pipe.
. After fitting the double check valve i would insert another short piece off pipe and an elbow. Then fit a length off pipe long enough to reach horizontally through the wall to the outside. When through the wall i would need to cut the pipe and leave about 25mm protruding.
. Finally i would need to cut a piece off pipe that reaches from the horizontal pipe protruding from your outside wall down to the position off your tap.
. These pipes are connected together using elbow joints.
. Then I connect all the parts together and tighten the joints with adjustable spanners.
Step 4 - Attaching the new outside tap.
. Now to attach the outside tap i will need to drill the fixing holes for the wall plate, insert plugs and attach the wall plate to the wall.
. When the wall plate is in place i would attach the tap but screwing it onto the elbow join.
. I would use plastic retaining clips for the pipes on the inside wall to stop the pipes vibrating and knocking against the wall.
. Finally, I would turn the water supply back on and check for any leaks.
. if any leaks occur I would simply tighten the joins.

 

[Mikey456]

On the sleeve part, none of that is correct the sleeve is just acting as a protective barrier to the pipe inside from corrosion from the cement in the walls etc.

Filing isn't needed on copper pipe only thing they want you to do in college is deburr the inside of the pipe not to restrict the flow.

Elbow joints - Compression Elbows would be a better term. Cant you solder this ? Clean your pipe and the inside of the fittings apply flux use a blow torch to get the copper to temperature and apply solder rule of thumb is 15mm pipe should use only 15mm of solder (Nobody ever does this but you'll find alot of stuff you learn in college is completely irrelevant)

15mm Talon clips for on the wall to keep the pipe secure and fastened.

 

[WHPES]

Don't forget you need a double check valve on the inside between the stopcock and the outside tap. This is required under the Water Regulations. Use a standard stopcock where you come off the mains rather than an isolation valve as most householders can't be bothered to hunt for a screwdriver when winter comes. Also you want to make sure there is as little exposed pipe as possible on the outside to prevent frost damage in winter. Traditionally, backplate elbows are used but more popular now are the type called a hose union backplate.
Make sure all components are the correct way round (usually have arrows on the castings).

Technically a "ball valve" is an inline valve with a ball inside the fitting which rotates to open / close the flow such as an isolation valve you find under a sink, however sometimes a float valve as you find in a cistern is incorrectly called a ball valve which can lead to confusion. Avoid using the term "ballvalve" altogether.

 

[Aaron]

Mikey and Whipes thankyou very much for your help

 

[WHPES]

If you're using a backplate elbow I use the compression type and deliberately do not tighten up the olive any more than necessary to stop leaking. If it freezes it just blows the fitting apart rather than splitting the pipe, and can thus be easily reassembled.

 

[kirkgas]

i would add a measuring tape to your tool list, not technically required but would be used most of the time, i would always use a 6mm x 350mm drill to drill a pilot hole then use a 25mm drill from both sides to ensure a nice neat hole, you can get a round flange backplate with about 350mm copper brazed into it, this is ideal for taps and gives a really neat finish.

 

[Aaron]

Don't forget you need a double check valve on the inside between the stopcock and the outside tap. This is required under the Water Regulations. Use a standard stopcock where you come off the mains rather than an isolation valve as most householders can't be bothered to hunt for a screwdriver when winter comes.

Technically a "ball valve" is an inline valve with a ball inside the fitting which rotates to open / close the flow such as an isolation valve you find under a sink, however sometimes a float valve as you find in a cistern is incorrectly called a ball valve which can lead to confusion. Avoid using the term "ballvalve" altogether.

the top paragraph you write what part off my step by step process would i write about that? im new to plumbing and hopeing to get a place in college so i might come across as a little dumb lmao.

. Cant you solder this ? Clean your pipe and the inside of the fittings apply flux use a blow torch to get the copper to temperature and apply solder rule of thumb is 15mm pipe should use only 15mm of solder (Nobody ever does this but you'll find alot of stuff you learn in college is completely irrelevant)

the same for this quote aswell not sure where i would talk about this part? and suggestions would be great thankyou guys.

 

[Aaron]

sorry for the double post but im supposed to do a neat sketch off what the system will look like when complete.

is this picture along the right lines?

 

[double d]

On the sleeve part, none of that is correct the sleeve is just acting as a protective barrier to the pipe inside from corrosion from the cement in the walls etc.QUOTE]


Also if he was going by the ' book ' it would help the pipe incase of the building moving LMAO

I remember reading that in JTL plumbing book

 

[PlumbBobBob]

also when you drill through the wall start off with a small dia drill to prevent blowing the face off the brick, and increase to a bigger size to drill back through to the inside.

 

[billybob150811]

have to say youre much better than me one or two very small points when you turn the water off and open the kitchen tap often very little comes out flush the toilet as well as this in a system with a storage tank introduces air into the rising main put non setting mastic (plumbers mait/similar) in the annular space between the pipe and the sleeve and put sand and cement mortar between the pipe sleeve and the brick work