Kitchen hot water hose bursts at the connector (white)

[Greglu]

Dear Sirs



I had a kitchen hot water hose which bursts this morning. This is a new connection for a new kitchen tap only a couple of months. The plumber installed a white connector (similar to the one remaining on the top) to the isolation valve but it bursts to somewhere (probably behind the cabinet) this morning. What I am not entirely sure is whether this connection was correct/safe? It seems to lead a very rigid connection (via the white coupler) which connects the water pipe and a flexible hose above. This is not in my area but I just feel something was not quite right. If not, what kind of connection is expected if I called a plumber for help?

Is this something that I can fix it by myself (e.g. to purchase a half connector if this is right approach)? What spares and tools that I may need? Thank you very much! I wish to get something done and kids will be proud of too.

 

[Ric2013]

I don't understand what you have written completely.

From the picture it looks like your plumber hasn't tightened the metal connexion 'compression joint' on the isolation valve properly and has put a load of PTFE tape on the isolation valve threads. I think the copper pipe came out of the compression joint as a result. Your plumber doesn't know what he's doing.

Get another plumber and you will probably find he already has the right materials in his van.

It is alright to connect a flexible hose to a rigid copper pipe as long as it isn't being pulled.

If you want to try DIY, look up how a 'compression joint' works (you will find videos and explanations online or in a DIY manual) first. You can reconnect the copper pipe that is coming out of the white bit to the 'compression fitting' isolator. You'll need a spanner and something to counterhold the isolation valve with - two adjustable spanners would be ideal. It is okay to wrap the 'olive' with PTFE tape - if you can - but please try without PTFE tape first. You can always dismantle and add some PTFE tape to the olive afterwards, only if it leaks.

Do not put any PTFE on the threads.

This might not be easy for you. But if you want to try it, try it.

 

[Greglu]

I don't understand what you have written completely.

From the picture it looks like your plumber hasn't tightened the metal connexion 'compression joint' on the isolation valve properly and has put a load of PTFE tape on the isolation valve threads. I think the copper pipe came out of the compression joint as a result. Your plumber doesn't know what he's doing.

Get another plumber and you will probably find he already has the right materials in his van.

It is alright to connect a flexible hose to a rigid copper pipe as long as it isn't being pulled.

If you want to try DIY, look up how a 'compression joint' works (you will find videos and explanations online or in a DIY manual) first. You can reconnect the copper pipe that is coming out of the white bit to the 'compression fitting' isolator. You'll need a spanner and something to counterhold the isolation valve with - two adjustable spanners would be ideal. It is okay to wrap the 'olive' with PTFE tape - if you can - but please try without PTFE tape first. You can always dismantle and add some PTFE tape to the olive afterwards, only if it leaks.

Do not put any PTFE on the threads.

This might not be easy for you. But if you want to try it, try it.

Thank you very much for your response! I suspect I will need a similar white coupler at the bottom to connect the copper pipe (top) to the bottom isolation valve. Is there any recommendation about this ‘white’ coupler? Thank you!

 

[Ric2013]

The white thing is a "Hep20" brand push-fit connector. Looks to be an integral part of that flexible braided hose.

The copper pipe just pushes into it and can't be pulled out again without using a special Hep2O release tool. The Hep2O release tool is inexpensive.

 

[gpbeck]

The short copper pipe looks a little too short and damaged to me. Process is to remove copper pipe from white connector (with a cheap plastic tool), remove nut from compression fitting and discard old olive, put in lower part of new piece of pipe maybe 5cm longer or even longer, place a new olive over pipe then tighten nut over it without pipe turning preferably needs about half a turn with a wrench beyond hand tight. Finally push white fitting onto top of pipe.

 

[Greglu]

The short copper pipe looks a little too short and damaged to me. Process is to remove copper pipe from white connector (with a cheap plastic tool), remove nut from compression fitting and discard old olive, put in lower part of new piece of pipe maybe 5cm longer or even longer, place a new olive over pipe then tighten nut over it without pipe turning preferably needs about half a turn with a wrench beyond hand tight. Finally push white fitting onto top of pipe.

Thanks for your response. Sorry I haven't present the problem clear. The top (white) coupler contains the short copper which seems to be integrated into the white plastic. I remember there was a similar white stuff sitting on the isolator valve (female coupler?). But I am not sure what it is called and where I can purchase it.

Yes, it will be too short without the bottom part. It is a shame the the bottom part went missing this morning after the blast. I suspect it went to the back of the MDF. I have attached another picture showing the remaining white stuff (male?).

 

[Ric2013]

Okay. Let me see if I understand. There was an extra piece between the compression fitting on the isolation valve and the white thing you are pointing to?

If so, GP Beck's advice is spot on!

 

[Greglu]

The white thing is a "Hep20" brand push-fit connector. Looks to be an integral part of that flexible braided hose.

The copper pipe just pushes into it and can't be pulled out again without using a special Hep2O release tool. The Hep2O release tool is inexpensive.

Thank you very much and I found both HEP20 and tool at Screwfix (see attachment)!

I just have one question. Can the coupler be fixed on the isolation valve directly? Or another switch/connector is needed between HEP20 and the isolation valve? Thank you!

 

[Greglu]

The short copper pipe looks a little too short and damaged to me. Process is to remove copper pipe from white connector (with a cheap plastic tool), remove nut from compression fitting and discard old olive, put in lower part of new piece of pipe maybe 5cm longer or even longer, place a new olive over pipe then tighten nut over it without pipe turning preferably needs about half a turn with a wrench beyond hand tight. Finally push white fitting onto top of pipe.

Thanks for your response. So the short copper can be released using the special Hep20 tool, isn’t it? And what I need to do is to find a slightly longer copper and connect to it to the bottom isolation value. This sounds like a good plan and I will have a go later.

 

[Greglu]

Okay. Let me see if I understand. There was an extra piece between the compression fitting on the isolation valve and the white thing you are pointing to?

If so, GP Beck's advice is spot on!

Thanks for your response. Yes, I remember there was a similar white stuff sitting on the valve which gives a quite rigid connection between them. What I don't know was how the bottom piece was connected to the valve. I suspect it was another short copper but not 100% sure.

I plan to purchase some tools, a copper pipe, and an extra isolation valve just in case. With some magic the problem will disappear.

 

[Ric2013]

Thank you very much and I found both HEP20 and tool at Screwfix (see attachment)!

I just have one question. Can the coupler be fixed on the isolation valve directly? Or another switch/connector is needed between HEP20 and the isolation valve? Thank you!

The copper tube goes straight into the isolation valve. Then you don't need a coupler. I would recommend you also buy a new 15mm olive to replace the existing one in the compression joint in the isolation valve (the olive will be made of copper or of brass). Might have to buy a pack, but they aren't expensive.

And a roll of PTFE in case you need it because it's so cheap (less than £1).

 

[Greglu]

I had drawn a sketch showing the 'finished work'. A new longer copper is going to fill the gap between the Hep20 and the isolation valve. Hopefully it is going to work.

 

[Greglu]

The copper tube goes straight into the isolation valve. Then you don't need a coupler. I would recommend you also buy a new 15mm olive to replace the existing one in the compression joint in the isolation valve (the olive will be made of copper or of brass). Might have to buy a pack, but they aren't expensive.

And a roll of PTFE in case you need it because it's so cheap (less than £1).

Thank you. I will try to use tool to remove the existing copper to make the way for a longer one. Hopefully it is going to work.

 

[Greglu]

I just found this female adaptor which is similar to the missing one. But I am not sure it is going to work as a good couple.