1. That's an unusual tap for the UK, at least in my experience. Do the fitting instructions in the top right of your first picture not explain?
2. It looks to me as if it has rigid pipe connections which require soldering. These are the two open ended pipes coming out of the base. However, if they are stainless steel, you probably can't solder them without hard / silver soldering.
3. I'd suggest:
3a. Remove the large fixing nut, the one with slots in the faces.
3b. If possible, unscrew the two open ended pipes from the tap body.
3c. If they don't unscrew reasonably easily they are hard fixed in the body. See 4. below.
3d. If they do unscrew, measure the diameter across the threads which screw into the body. They will probably be 10 or 12 mm.
3e. Get a flexible tap connector with the appropriate threaded end and a 1/2" BSP female connector at the other end.
3f. Screw the flexis into the tap body, and connect the other end to the pipework.
4. If they don't unscrew, you will have to connect to the flared ends. I'd suggest this is not a DIY job if they are stainless steel. You would also have to be careful not to let excess heat get into the tap body or it will be damaged.
Some other points:
A. You will need good hot and cold pressure to get decent flow through the tap, particularly through the flexible hose spray.
B. Make sure you fit isolation valves in the pipework. Good quality, full bore ones.
C. It would be advisable to fit non-return (check) valves at least in the hot feed, and preferably both feeds, unless you have equal pressure feeds, such as from a combi boiler.
D. Make sure you can get spares, particularly for the flexible hose. In my experience they don't last long.
E. Make sure the weight is fixed to the flexible hose in the correct position, and the weight and hose have plenty of room to move in the cupboard below.