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Discuss Kitchen Tap Loose in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

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WaterTight

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Before the barrage of abuse begins, I'm not working as a plumber. Chance'd be a fine thing. I am actually looking for work as a plumbers mate as it happens (with zero success) but am NOT working as a plumber on my own and wouldn't dream of doing so since I have no non-classroom experience.

This is a friend's mum's house and she asked me to have a go at a few things knowing that I'd done a fast-track course. The reasons being they seem relatively simple jobs and moreover I'll do it for free.

There's no nut fixing the tap to the sink unit. Nor does it look like there could be one added since the base of the tap body has no casing with a thread. It has no casing at all. The two flexi tap connectors just enter the base of the tap and there's nothing else to the body. It looks like the tap was held in position by the flexi-connectors being stretched taut to the copper pipe run which was clipped to the unit back. But since then the pipe clips have come out of the unit back, producing slack in the flexi-connectors and so the nut-less tap has come loose. The pipe work run was too far from the unit it was clipped to so it was bound to come loose eventually. And apparently it's been like it is now for years.

So firstly, to satisfy my curiosity, what is the deal with this tap? Missing something? Meant to be secured in this fashion?

And as for what to do, save for gluing it in position, I'm presuming the best thing to do is to install a new tap. Is this what you'd do?

And if yes, how would the proceedure go? Things to do first, check first. Only one side has a stopcock and there are no isolation valves anywhere on the runs. So would this have to be a drain-down job? How much of what's there would you get rid of and how much would you leave? The stop-cock felt too seized to turn by hand (had no tools on me at time so it might give with a bit of welly) and the fittings are pretty worn and scaled. And a proper job would no doubt involve getting the pipe work properly clipped back.

Thoughts please... Thank you.
 

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there will be a long threaded stem under the tap. there should be a nut on there which you tighten to secure the tap. it may be loose or missing.
theres a tool called a monoblock spanner just for this. theres a small plate that may have rusted which will give the nut nothing to tighten to.

you will need to drain down after shutting off the supply yes. if replacing tap fit isolation/service valves too so you dont need to do this next time.
 
thanks for being honest.
rip out the tap and chuck it, get one from skrewfix, about £20 - contract mono tap.
buy 2 iso's with it £2.50. you may need 2 new flexi's as i cant say wether you will get copper tails supplied or not with the tap so look for flexi's with iso on-makes it easier to install.
loose the 3/4 fe connector then bolt up ur new tap.
charge them £60, thats cheap but you make a few quid and they should be happy.
 
Cheers for the info guys. Some further very dumb questions a-coming...

The red circled fitting in the following photo. Just a compression coupling isn't it? Did he use it because the flexi wasn't long enough? I don't get why he wouldn't have just used a longer bit of pipe.

Also..

you may need 2 new flexi's as i cant say wether you will get copper tails supplied or not with the tap so look for flexi's with iso on-makes it easier to install.

I'm afraid I don't understand what you mean. Why would the decision of getting new flexi's or not rely on whether there's copper tails supplied with the new tap?
Like the flexi with isolation valve built in though, found those, makes it a good bit easier.


loose the 3/4 fe connector then bolt up ur new tap.

What's an fe connector? The thing I circled maybe? I googled it but none of the pictures I saw looked like anything there.
 

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The fitting you circle looks like it could be a non return valve to stop the cold mains pressure water going down the hot supply when both taps on the mono block turned on, it may be required ,it may not but it is not hurting anything if hot flow rate ok at present ,so just leave in
Redsaw mentioned using tap flex hoses, like fitted to old tap as easier to use for the inexperianced, they are the same as you have seen but on end fits into the tap
If you also purchase a 15mm compression coupling and a short piece of 15mm copper tube
Isolate supplies,
Remove compression nuts on top of stopcock and top of believed non return vive and pull out of fitting, removed tap, fit new tap, remove the two nuts and olives from coupling and fit onto top of stopcock and n/r valve fit short 15mm copper tails into them ,length as required and connect tails to tap flexi's
 
Brilliant. Thanks for that. Crystal clear.

Just out of interest, what's the reason you suggest changing the nuts on the n/r and stopcock for new ones? Is it just to be safe because they're a bit old?

Also, I don't suppose I'll bother since it's only a short run and they're fairly secure in a cupboard, but if you were asked to re-clip the pipes back to the unit, what would you do to make sure they didn't come loose like they did already. And is there any risk now that the pipe has been loose for so long that straining it back against the wall might spring a leak?
 
Good lord its a monstrosity, it looks like someone butchered a tap and improvised a way to fit it on the sink...
 
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