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Keefy

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When you have to remove (break) a kitchen unit backboard to access hidden pipework what do you normally put in its place? Sometimes it's just impossible to remove them without ripping them out and I've noticed a lot of new kitchens now have them stapled on rather than slotted in.

I try to explain to customers before I proceed that I'll do my best to take it out without damaging it but may have no choice but to break it.
 
I would cut a hole in the existing one, then you would have something to fix to, and put a new piece backing in. The white mastic around the edges, will make it look good as new
 
SDS drill on hammer, chisel bit in & smash the •••• out of it!!! It's only a piece of wood in the back of a cupboard so what should it matter?!?



No seriously, if the customers that particular about keeping it in place source a similar colour for replacement once you've finished what you're doing. If they're not so particular replace with another piece of wood, melamine or the like but make sure it's sealed to prevent water ingress.
 
I reckon cutting a hole as big as possible into the backboard leaving a border round it to attach a new one to sounds the best way so far.

Stupid kitchen fitters!
 
cut it with one of these and put it back afterwards
Bosch GOP250CE 250W Multi-Cutter 240V | NoLinkingToThis
 
cut it with one of these and put it back afterwards
Bosch GOP250CE 250W Multi-Cutter 240V | NoLinkingToThis

I was going to say...

Just multimaster it out and L bracket it back in place.
SDS chisel? mmm...
 
In an ideal world the kitchen fitter would stick a few magnets on the board for future access - but we live in this world.
 
9/10 times id just rip it out tbh and leave the customer to sort it out. If they ask me to replace it then id batton and fix back some white hardboard with screws for future access.
 
I do a lot of work for a kitchenfitter supplier who supplies symphony units and I use my recip saw to cut the top rail out on each side the bend the back panel out of the grove when working in kitchens that's backs are impossible to remove without breaking I usually go to Howarth timber to get a 15mm chipboard panel in the nearest colour I can and cut it to fit
 
Last one I mullered, I used guttering fascia board ( a long L profile), thinnish guage, applied G*****x,placed it in front of the saw cuts and against carcass side, then finished off the joins with caulk.Customer likes it better than paying for dismantling of unit.
 
Sorry, you applied what?
 
the solvent free adhesive in the yellow tube. Got it in my head no advertising of brand names. Got it out of my head how to spell it. Gripfill.
 
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