Leak - pan connector from cast iron stack

[samdporter]

Hi all,

We've got a toilet that's been leaking due to a faulty seal with the pan connector. We've had a plumber in to replace the pan connector, but it hasn't done anything to fix the leak (and has cost us over £200). The plumber has told us that it can't be fixed due to the height of the old stack (1930s, cast iron) being unsuitable for the height of modern toilets. He has opted to move the toilet forward and insert a new solid pan connector into the old flexible pan connector (see attachments) because he was worried about causing more issues with the cast iron stack. This seems crazy to me, but he was adamant that if this didn't work we needed to either to lower the stack height (an expensive job that will have to be done by the council due to this being a leasehold property) or raising the height of the toilet (which will presumably look ugly and will mean spending more money). Adding a new pan connector has also meant that the toilet can no longer be bolted to the floor.
My questions are: would this problem be fixed by using a flexible pan connector? Do we need to do all this expensive work? Would it have been better to remove the old pan connector and replace it?
I have also attached am image of the toilet previously (with some added sealant that the plumber used as a failed temporary fix)
Any help would be really appreciated. I've got the feeling that I'm being messed around, but don't know enough to be sure.
Thanks
Sam

 

[SimonG]

Cut cast iron flush with wall. This will give enough space to fit a standard pan connector. Might need an extension as well.

 

[Original Poster]

Cut cast iron flush with wall. This will give enough space to fit a standard pan connector. Might need an extension as well.

Thanks. Pipes are council owned (leasehold flat) so we're unable to cut the pipe. Will an extender + standard pan connector do the job?

 

[Ben-gee]

I agree with SimonG.

As the cast is angled, if you cut it back you are also effectively lowering it.

The new leak is probably due to them putting a pan connector inside another one directly- whereas you need to put a short length of 110 soil as a sleeve ( this can be just 60mm then it’s all inside and doesn’t add to the length)

All of these things lead me to suggest you try a different plumber…

 

[Timmy D]

I wouldn’t call the chap a plumber. Completely bodged.

As above, cutting the collar off is ideal.

It currently looks like the old flex pan connector goes straight in to the collar. As some point it has leak and been smeared with some crap.

Ideally, if starting again with an empty collar. There should be a small section of plastic 4” soil pipe in the collar which you then cement in place. Once the cement is dry, you can add a new pan connector.

How it is currently, needs to be ripped out and done again.

 

[samdporter]

Hi all, thanks for the advice

I actually ended up fixing it myself yesterday and have sent the company an email with photographs asking for a refund. The council owns the pipe so I think we'll struggle to cut them down.
I bought an extender to fit into the smaller part of the stack beyond the lip (photos attached) but bought a flexible pan connector that was too long. It means that the toilet isn't bolted into the floor (I've sealed the bottom with some Mastik) and sticks out a bit, but is no longer leaking. What do you think about it? It doesn't leak, but doesn't look that great, either!

 

[SimonG]

It's a no from me, but each to their own.

 

[samdporter]

It's a no from me, but each to their own.

What does that mean? This has stopped the leak for now until I can get a proper plumber in for a more permanent fix

 

[SimonG]

What does that mean? This has stopped the leak for now until I can get a proper plumber in for a more permanent fix

Right.
1. I do it for a living, so to me it's a bodge. Appreciate that you wanted it to stop leaking, but the old adage sh!te doesn't roll up hill.
2. It's off the wall and will wobble, chance of a leak.
3. Yes the original contractor made a worse job of it than you actually did, but did you give them chance to fix it before diving in? If yes, then you may have some joy getting a refund, if not then very doubtful, just move on and forget about it.

Hope you get sorted. 👍

 

[samdporter]

Right.
1. I do it for a living, so to me it's a bodge. Appreciate that you wanted it to stop leaking, but the old adage sh!te doesn't roll up hill.
2. It's off the wall and will wobble, chance of a leak.
3. Yes the original contractor made a worse job of it than you actually did, but did you give them chance to fix it before diving in? If yes, then you may have some joy getting a refund, if not then very doubtful, just move on and forget about it.

Hope you get sorted. 👍

I'm not expecting to do a better job than a pro on my first try! But I've had these guys round 3 times now and this is what I've ended up with. I even got the plumber to come round on the same day when I noticed his handiwork was leaking. He said that there was nothing more he could do, aside from cutting the cast iron stack up outside the property and lowering it or raising the toilet with a plinth (which he said he'd do us a quote for, but doesn't seem ideal). He also hadn't bolted the toilet down and hadn't cleaned the edge of the toilet base, so the sealant was coming up within hours of application.
£30 and a couple of hours work seemed like the best option so that we don't cause any more problems (water going through the flat below's ceiling).

The plan is to get someone to permanently fix the issue, but plans won't stop the leak.

Is the issue specifically with the unsuitable flexible connector or does the whole thing need redoing?

Anyway, appreciate the advice. I'll know better what to ask/look for when we get a new plumber round