leaking grant boiler

[CXR100]

I have a leak on one of my customers boiler. its a grant boiler. the filling loop tap is leaking at the point where it threads into a steel tee on the boiler itself. (other side goes to expansion vessel if I remember correctly) where is the cheapest place to get one of these valves? don't rally want to buy the whole filling loop (its leaking when its closed one small drip at a time) also does a hell of a bad noise . got called there today because it has gone to burner lockout, would this be caused by maybe the noisy bearing? or the fan? thanks

 

[MarkOil]

Any plumbing shop, those valves are always leaking, 1/2" to 15mm, bit of copper then 15mm ballofix.
That's what I do.
Trouble is they use a compression nut thread fitted in to black iron, which isn't the correct thing to do.

 

[MarkOil]

Noise and lockout could be any number of things, did it restart when the button was pressed?

 

[Jay Jay]

Hi maybe loss of pressure has ment pump running dry causing banging and locking out due to high temp might be wrong though

 

[MarkOil]

It may cause issues with the water pump, but they are pretty tough usually.
If the pressure drops and it isn't moving the water away from the boiler quick enough, then the limit stat may trip but the boiler "locking out" will only be caused by oil or combustion issues.
Has water been dripping on the burner and damaged the control box or motor etc?

 

[SimonG]

Leaky Grant, get away

If you are taking out the old filling loop then its a 9mm allen key, or a 10mm one and an angke grinder. Apparently 9mm allen keys are like rocking horse poop.

Pressure and lockout are not linked. Unless its leaking onto the burner.

 

[WHPES]

The valves on the filling loop are a common problem with the earlier Vortex boilers as the heat from the boiler tends to affect the rubber seals in them. It's best if you can to put a copper pipe length in between the tee and the loop if you can to reduce this effect.

 

[CXR100]

went to fix the leak the other day, but it had stopped, and boiler stayed on, but today I had a call, it had gone off and leak started again, don't think I can find time to visit till Thursday. what do you think is causing it to lock out each time? stays on for about an hour

 

[Millsy 82]

The valves on the filling loop are a common problem with the earlier Vortex boilers as the heat from the boiler tends to affect the rubber seals in them. It's best if you can to put a copper pipe length in between the tee and the loop if you can to reduce this effect.

I went on a course the other day and it is actually due to lack of expansion from the small vessel in the boiler. Because how many times have you seen an additional expansion vessel installed on the heating system.

The new boilers they have moved them so they come out on the bottom of the heat store and they will come with a larger expansion vessel.

 

[CXR100]

right I popped over to the property now and the boiler wont start at all . when I reset the burner lockout I can only hear humming. then the boiler sparks then goes straight to lockout, is it as I suspect the motor? thanks

 

[MarkOil]

Motor or capacitor, changed the capacitor today on a G20 that was taking 2secs to actually start spinning properly lol.
But it could be the motor is stiff and worn out the capacitor, what does the motor spin like by hand? fairly free or like a spoon in treacle?

 

[CXR100]

could it be a bearing or the oil pump? or do I just start with the motor complete? thanks

 

[Millsy 82]

I would remove the pump and see if motor runs ok?

 

[MarkOil]

Cost wise, I never really tend to muck about with the bearings, I just change the motors.
The Fuel pump may be seized, split the two and see which moves the easier, most times if the fuel pump is causing issues it will sheer of the drive dog between the pump and motor or badly wear it.
Changing either fuel pump or motor will mean combustion will need to be set up correctly again.

 

[CXR100]

https://hwos.co.uk/trade-store/#!/RIELLO-RDB-PUMP-AND-MOTOR-KIT/p/8881016/category=5516165

will tis on do?

 

[Best]

Remove the oil pump. Check it for turning easy with your hand on its spindle.
Turn burner on to see if motor runs freely & with quietly. If it doesn't turn give the fan a flick with a screwdriver & to check capacitor.
If motor bearings seized, replace the both bearings - it's very very easy - just a 5 minute job once the motor is removed. Use bearing pullers & something to tap each bearing on without damaging them. A hammer on a 1/2" brass part 1 ball valve bare tail will do.

 

[CXR100]

what is the humming noise I can hear now then? is the motor probably seized? thanks

 

[Best]

what is the humming noise I can hear now then? is the motor probably seized? thanks

Motor will hum if trying to turn, - which could mean simply the capacitor needs replaced (it is what gives the motor the kick & in the right direction of turn)
Or the motor can't turn because the oil pump is seized or motor bearing.
You will know immediately you remove oil pump if motor or pump is seized.
Change the capacitor if any doubts later about motor not starting to run up speed instantly.

 

[CXR100]

there was a bad bearing like noise in the boiler last time I visited the property.