leaking hot water tank advice needed

[dendenden]

Hello all

I've made this account so that I may see if anyone can offer me some help.
I've noticed that my hot water tank has a slight leak from the (What I assume to be) the outlet pipe where it joins onto the tank. The water has trickled down and overtime is has pooled inside the insulation.

Around where it is attached is some limescale.
What's the best way to deal with this? I was thinking of closing off the tap on the pipe at the top of the tank, then partially emptying the tank with the bleed tap at the base of the tank, them clearing off the scale and then tightening the nut. Or would this potentially make it worse?

The tank has a slight 'give' in it when you press into it. I'm assuming that this is normal?

I'm off on holiday tomorrow so would rather avoid a larger job now and seek a temporary fix in the meantime.

Any advice would be much appreciated- I've attached some pics for your reference.

Thanks in advance, Den

 

[SimonG]

Its goosey gooseyed and needs replacing.

 

[SimonG]

ps dont keep pressing it, you will push through it.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

+1 do not touch needs replacing asap

 

[dendenden]

Ok, thanks for the replies- would I be right in thinking it would be best to empty it then, considering I'll be away for a couple of weeks?

 

[SimonG]

Oh yes!

 

[gassafe]

Is that not a leaking Essex flange... The washer has probably failed.

 

[Rckape]

It does look like an Essex flange to me.

I've fitted them in the past when I was on the books and I always thought that the washer didn't seem up to much.

 

[solutions]

I have had cylinders where the junction to the coil is like that. Had the washer fail when changing a zone valve due to movement on the pipe. Had to drain cylinder in a hurry and then track down a big enough fibre washer to replace it but the cylinder I did it in had not been leaking long term and did not look as corroded as the op's. I would go with changing the whole thing might be time to considder going unvented if your main pressure and flow will support it.

 

[solutions]

Looking at pics again looks a little high on the cylinder to be coil. Change the cylinder either way.

 

[dendenden]

Thank you all for your replies- your input is much appreciated. It does look like the leak is coming from the fibre washer and when I return I'll look into replacing the cylinder as advised.

I'll empty the cylinder today. Would anyone just mind confirming that I'm on the right track- I've attached a couple of annotated pics with what I believe to be right, though please do point out if I've made an error with the labels.

There's also an additional pipe at the base of the cylinder on the right hand side. What could this be?

As for emptying the cylinder, would this get me there:
1. Turn of mains supply downstairs
2. Drain hot/cold water by running taps
3. Attach hose to drain valve (if I've labelled it correctly) and open valve.

Again, thanks for the advice in advance.

 

[Best]

When you have to ask what each pipe is, you are better to get a plumber in who will know what they are doing.
But here it is, - There usually is - pipe going to bottom of cylinder which feeds the tank with cold water (coming from a tank in attic). Possibly a drain off on it.
Hot pipe coming out of top to taps etc
In your cylinder - hot independent supply to a pump (for shower?) coming out of side. They might have an Essex flange which will leak as it can't take a lot of heat & that is very hot area. New Essex flange would seal it.
One side normally you will have the flow & return from your heating system that go into a coil of the cylinder to heat the water indirectly.
You probably will need a new cylinder & need to drain both the cylinder & the heating system.

 

[dendenden]

Thats a fair point Best- I will be getting someone out; I just keen on emptying the cylinder before I'm away from home for a while. That makes sense about the independent supply- it's linked to a pump then the shower. Which accounts for the other pipe (which I assumed was from the boiler.

So I've incorrectly labelled the photo- the 'from boiler' pipe must be an independent supply to the shower.

With this being the case, I suppose that I wouldn't need to drain the central heating as a precaution? Do correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks, Den

 

[jonnyswamp]

Turn off the mains supply to the tank in the attic (or your main stop tap) attach a hose to the "drain valve" in you last picture and drain the cylinder through it
Don't open any hot taps until you get water running through the hose, sometimes the drain off valve is seized (due to lack of use and plumbers like Garth tightening them up) and the extra bit of head ( water pressure due to the tank in attic still being full) can usually force the washer off the seating
When you get water through the hose, open your hot taps upstairs and down, wait until hose stops running and you're sorted until you get back from holiday
Before you go away, try and get a plumber lined up to change the cylinder as soon as you get back, don't leave it until you return as you'll probably struggle to get someone at such short notice

 

[dendenden]

hi Jonny- thanks for the guidance and advice- I'm on the case- connected hose to drain valve and have shut off the gate in the loft.

I'll empty the cylinder and have a professional lined up to sort it when I return.

Cheers again, Den

 

[Best]

Be careful leaving it drained, as the valve on the feed to cylinder from the cold tank could be passing water and you could come back to a flood. Make sure the drain turns off again and probably better to turn the mains supply off and turn taps on to drain cold tank more or less down.
When you order a new copper cylinder you can get one made with an 1" tapping up high on the side of cylinder or use a Warix, or Surrey or other method of supplying hot water to pump. Do not have a new cylinder drilled & one of those stupid Essex flanges fitted which will leak eventually

 

[jonnyswamp]

hi Jonny- thanks for the guidance and advice- I'm on the case- connected hose to drain valve and have shut off the gate in the loft.

I'll empty the cylinder and have a professional lined up to sort it when I return.

Cheers again, Den

Make sure you've turned off the cold mains, as I said in my post, not the gate valve on the cold feed to the cylinder from the tank in the attic
For reasons why, see Bests post above

 

[dendenden]

Best and Jonny- good to know, and thanks for suggesting that those Essex flanges are best avoided. I had someone come out today and they will replace the cylinder when I return; they agreed that they are a pain in the arse. I've learnt a lot today and can happily leave the house safe in the knowledge that a flood has been avoided.

To all that offered help, cheers again. Den.

 

[dendenden]

Best and Jonny- good to know, and thanks for suggesting that those Essex flanges are best avoided. I had someone come out today and they will replace the cylinder when I return; they agreed that they are a pain in the arse. I've learnt a lot today and can happily leave the house safe in the knowledge that a flood has been avoided.

To all that offered help, cheers again. Den.

 

[JCSPLUMBING]

Also, I've yet to find a drain off cock on a cylinder that actually works. What I do is crack off the immersion at the top and put a hose in there and siphon it out manually at a lower level then when it's near empty I stick my wet vac in there and get the dregs at the bottom

 

[gassafe]

I'm fitting an Essex flange tomorrow

 

[Best]

I'm fitting an Essex flange tomorrow

Shame on you! It's plumbers like you that are causing all this work with leaky cylinders! :smile: