Leaking Isolation Valve Bathroom Taps

[Pete Nice]

First post here so I any help if possible would be greatly appreciated.

I changed a basin mixer tap in my bathroom yesterday but turning off the isolation valves. All fine except when I opened one of the valves it's now leaking from the screw. Reading online this seems to be a common issue with these type of valves especially if they're old.

I've just been to screwfix to get a replacement valve but my question is what is the process to be able to replace the valve?

I have a combi boiler and I've read that I should follow this process:

Turn of boiler at mains
Turn off main water supply
Drain water from taps.
Replace valve
Turn mains water back on
Run water through taps
Turn boiler back on.

Is the process above correct? Will I need to repressurise the boiler when it's turned back on?

Any advice would be a great help.

 

[Amateur]

Thats exactly how i do mine. The pressure gauge relates to the radiators not the water flow for the tap outlets.

 

[Pete Nice]

Thanks for your advice.

 

[Scott_D]

Sounds good
If you can, get someone to turn the water back on while you wait in the bathroom just in case

 

[Pete Nice]

Ok will do Scott.

 

[Amateur]

Sounds good
If you can, get someone to turn the water back on while you wait in the bathroom just in case

Ha ha, yeah, "just in case"!!!!

I like to use jointing compound on my compression joints, some use ptfe around the olive, others use nothing and rely purely on the fitting. I seem to get naff fittings sometimes (you get what you pay for!) so the compund is great if there is an ever so slight tolerance issue between the olive and fitting.

 

[Pete Nice]

Actually that was something I was going to ask whether I needed to use sealing compound. Also will it be OK to reuse the 30cm of pipe I'm fixing the valve to?

 

[Amateur]

If it were me i would look at the compression fitting and nuts to see if they are the same as your new ones. If they are i would just try swapping the isolator body over with the existing nuts and olives that are still on the pipe. Its worth a try then if you cant get a seal remove the old olives and nuts and replace with new. The pipe should be fine unless someones crushed it overtightening in the past.

I am not a plumber by the way, just a serial house mover/renovator!!!

 

[Pete Nice]

Ok thanks

 

[Pete Nice]

So I've remove the nut from the valve - what's the best way to remove it? - seems to be on pretty tight.

 

[Pete Nice]

It's OK it's off!

 

[Amateur]

Plumbers might prefer to use grips or waterpump pliers but i just use two spanners. One to sit over the isolator so the slotted tap part is in the back of the U on the spanner to avoid damage, this enables you to keep the isolator body still whilst you tighten the nut down to it with the other spanner.

 

[Pete Nice]

All done - water and boiler back on and everything is working fine. Thanks again for everyone's help.

 

[Amateur]

Glad youve sorted it. Check it again later just to make sure its not weeping. If it is then just give it a slight nip up at whichever end is leaking. Make sure you hold the isolator body still as you do it or you will end up with a leak at both ends of it.

 

[Pete Nice]

will do