Leaking radiator valve fitted to micro bore pipe

[Paul Cockhill]

Hi

To all you experienced plumbers out there. I have a weeping radiator valve, where a 10mm copper pipe connects to it. I have tried tightening the nut, which I believe squeezes the olive, and should stop the leak. However this did stop the leak for a few hours but not permanently.

I do not want to keep tightening the nut for fear of crushing the pipe. Has anyone have any solutions.

many thanks

Paul

 

[ShaunCorbs]

The only way to guarantee it is to drain down and remove the pipe to see if
it's damaged etc
might not be all the way in etc
olive isn't crushed too much / damaged

If everything looks ok add some jointing compound to the pipe and re tighten

 

[JCplumb]

Probably one of those crimping 15/10mm compression reducers that allow 10mm pipe to go into a 15mm valve.
I hate them with a passion. The ones that snap to make the seal. Once you get a leak with them you're cutting the pipe.

 

[Paul Cockhill]

The only way to guarantee it is to drain down and remove the pipe to see if
it's damaged etc
might not be all the way in etc
olive isn't crushed too much / damaged

If everything looks ok add some jointing compound to the pipe and re tighten

Thanks, as you say it will need a drain down I think

 

[Paul Cockhill]

Probably one of those crimping 15/10mm compression reducers that allow 10mm pipe to go into a 15mm valve.
I hate them with a passion. The ones that snap to make the seal. Once you get a leak with them you're cutting the pipe.

Thanks you are right it has a crimping 15/10mm compression reducer and snaps to make a seal. When I orginally tightened it, it tightened a good half turn but still has not sealed properly. Is there any sealant I can put on it or will it need draining?

 

[JCplumb]

There is no reliable external sealant, you'll need a drain down if you're not able to either bung it or snatch it - both methods are best left to someone who has experience.
Something like boss white may help depending on where it's passing, but if you're going to the trouble of undoing the valve, my advice is to change the valve.
Due to the crimp reducer, you'll need to cut back the pipe and use a coupler into a new section of pipe. If you use an actual 10mm valve then it will be a standard nut and olive which is far more reliable and servicable. Beware though that shops advertise 10mm valves that are actually 15mm valves with a crimp reducer.

 

[DAVE01]

Hi

To all you experienced plumbers out there. I have a weeping radiator valve, where a 10mm copper pipe connects to it. I have tried tightening the nut, which I believe squeezes the olive, and should stop the leak. However this did stop the leak for a few hours but not permanently.

I do not want to keep tightening the nut for fear of crushing the pipe. Has anyone have any solutions.

many thanks

Paul

Hi paul only way to sort your leek is to cut of ring you cant do this under pressure but nock off both sides of rad only do this if you are working downstairs do not do this up stairs or you will have a big problem Or use a freeze pack to freeze pipe if you have to drain down heating knock off all rads and use masking tape to count how many turns it takes to knock off the on the return the lock shield valve that is reason i say this is all the rads at some stage were balanced so if you write down on masking tape the amount of turns should have no problems Geting back to leek when you cut pipe use a 10 mm incert and a new ring but in cert in pipe up to shoulder tighen nut job sorted just Rember your Nut first then Ring and incert hope this helps

 

[Best]

Paste on it - all parts and sides of compression reducer might solve it.