Main Internal stopcock Sheared

[polydevs]

Hi,

Unfortunately I find myself in a bit of a predicament.. The house I live in is very old, 1917 so I presume that this pipework with the stopcock is lead.

I shut off the main and the shaft sheared, I attempted to grind a slot into what remained to hopefully open the water supply for a short term fix.. However, this just resulted in more shearing/shaving of what remained.

What can I do in this situation? Do I need a professional? Can the internals be replaced without the need to replace the valve body?

Curious as to what my potential solutions are. Hopefully I haven't made the situation too impossible!

Please see the photos attached.

 

[steadyon]

1. You are correct, the pipe either side of the stopcock is lead.
2. The best solution would be to have the pipe replaced from water main to the property, together with a new stopcock. Depending where you are in the country, your water board might offer a free or reduced charge lead pipe replacement.
3. It is highly unlikely that you would be able to get just the body of the tap if it is as old as you think it is. Even if you could it is equally doubtful you could unscrew the body without damaging the lead.
4. As an interim measure you might consider:
4a. Turning off the water at the water boards stop valve / meter.
4b. Digging the lead out from the concrete past the bulges where the stopcock has been sweated in.
4c. Cutting the lead before the bulge nearest the main and after the bulge nearest the property.
4d. Cutting a further 4 inches of lead of either side of the pipe, and weighing it.
4e. Getting some copper pipe (probably 15 mm) and a new stopcock.
4f. Getting two "Lead Loc" fittings. To get the right ones you will need to measure the inside bore of the pipe. Do this at several points round the circumference to get an average. It will probably be 1/2" pipe. You will also need the weight per foot of the lead. To get this weigh the 4" offcut and multiply its weight by three.
4g. Clean the outside of the lead, using a spokeshave or similar, making sure any joint line running the length of the pipe is shaved off.
4h Fit the lead locs, copper pipe and new valve.
5. I'd suggest this is NOT a DIY operation unless you are particularly adept.

 

[polydevs]

Thank you for your response, I called in a plumber and showed him your response, he says there isn’t 4” on the water main side, he’s going to make a few phone calls tomorrow. Maybe it is time to contact the house insurance and water provider.

again, thank you for your help.

 

[Basher]

4d. Cutting a further 4 inches of lead of either side of the pipe, and weighing it.

Given the lack of available incoming pipe, presumably a smaller sample could be taken (albeit with a risk of inaccuracy) to get the weight per foot? There's surely nothing magic about 4", other than the ease and accuracy of the sums?

 

[steadyon]

Nothing magic whatever, Its just generally convenient.
You could take the sample from the property side.

 

[Timmy D]

Given the lack of available incoming pipe, presumably a smaller sample could be taken (albeit with a risk of inaccuracy) to get the weight per foot? There's surely nothing magic about 4", other than the ease and accuracy of the sums?

I now use Primofit instead of lead loc. Works on steel, PE and lead. No need to get the correct lead poundage, just the external diameter. Then if needed, just shave a little off the OD.