MCZ Pellet central heating system

[jarnold231]

Good morning,

I'm trying to get an MCZ Hydro-22 pellet stove to provide heating. The stove is operational and is providing hot water to the taps, but it is not supplying the radiators.

Things I have done:

1. Bled radiators
2. Re-pressurised system (all gauges showing 1.5 bar)
3. Set thermostat to 30
4. Checked electricity to pumps (the lights are on in the diode in the switches) and there is heat on both sides of the pumps (Grundfos) - but there are no power lights on the pumps and pressing the button on them doesn't do anything.

I spoke with someone who suggested that the pumps may have gone, or I need to open a valve somewhere in the system. I've tried a number of valves (returning them to their previous positions after a few minutes).

[This system is at my mum's business in the highlands - she's in hospital - and the installer is now out of business and other engineers are hard to come by, so I'm turning to the internet as a final hope before I make an expensive call to an engineer from some distance away]

Any help greatly appreciated, I've put some photos on from the boiler room at the back.

Thanks
Jake

 

[snowhead]

Is there a programmer / timer?
Is it that on the board near the top under the switch and socket?
Is it set to ON or Auto and is the time correct?

Post a photo if you locate the programmer

 

[Rob Foster]

Some poor quality pellets on the market do not supply enough beans . Poor input poor output centralheatking

 

[Rob Foster]

I would look for a 3 way valve not shifting from Dom hot to Dom hot and ch , it’s not rocket science, a local fella can check this dead easy, do not be baffled by cow poo. centralheatking

 

[jarnold231]

Thanks both for replies - the programme is set to P01 (which from the manual means on pretty much all the time.

I've taken pictures of all programme settings I can find - there is hot water, so I can only assume its doing what its supposed to, but hot water is not entering the central heating loop.

I'm sure it's an easy fix, but we are in the middle of nowhere and getting someone to come look is a big effort

 

[jarnold231]

Checked the three way switches all look to be in correct positions

 

[Rob Foster]

Ok ,then see if there is a manual override to th three way
Unit, you could try setting it to change back and forth, and I would give it a sharp smack with a wrench , it is probably stuck Chking
And give it a dose of wd40 plenty right down he holes by the lever,
Plenty mind you, let it penetrate for an hour or so smack it again,
Then see what happens , let me know Centralheatking

 

[jarnold231]

Set them to on and gave them a thwack with a wrench. The lights on the Grundfos pumps came on, but pressure on the guage went up to above 2.

Going to bleed the radiators again.

Also the switches on the honeywells dont feel sprung and aren't locking into the on position. Suppose that means they need replacing?

 

[jarnold231]

So just to clarify - I spray WD40 into the grey box which has an electrical wire coming from it?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

So just to clarify - I spray WD40 into the grey box which has an electrical wire coming from it?

No

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Is the lever loose or does it take some force to move it ?

 

[jarnold231]

Lever is loose, but does not lock into the open position.

The electrics on it seem to be working fine. I can hear and see them changing when I change heating to off / on

Took the electrical unit off. There is very little movement on the valve adjuster (maybe 1/3 turn) does it need to be more than this?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

No that's fine

Does the pump turn on when you manually lock it open

 

[jarnold231]

No, the Grundfos pumps aren't lighting up (although I have seen them light up this morning).

Is there anyway to tell if the valve is in the open position?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Do you have a multi meter?

 

[jarnold231]

Unfortunately no

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Unfortunately no

Best to call a pro out then sorry to say

 

[jarnold231]

Should the grundfos pumps be lit up all the time?

The nearest engineer says he can do it in 2 weeks...

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Only when there's call eg the port valves open

 

[jarnold231]

So if I'm not getting any lights, even when the system should be working and I'm pressing the grey arrow button then its probably an electrical issue to the pumps?

 

[Rob Foster]

If it’s stuffed spray it
Chk....thinking check all fuses etc

 

[ShaunCorbs]

So if I'm not getting any lights, even when the system should be working and I'm pressing the grey arrow button then its probably an electrical issue to the pumps?

Yea sparky who knows heating systems should be able to help

 

[snowhead]

Post no. 8 you said when you set them (valves?) to on, the pump light came on?

Did you hear or feel water move around the pipework?

To latch the valve in manual, push the lever across to on, then push it down into the wider part of the slot that's got the tooth like part on it.
Hold there for a second, as the spring tries to reset the valve it should latch on. (to release push lever up to the longer part of the slot.)
Does the pump stay on?

 

[Harvest Fields]

Yea sparky who knows heating systems should be able to help

A heating engineer that knows heating should also be able to help you.

 

[jarnold231]

Yeah I saw that the lights came on for an unknown reason earlier in the day, but haven't been able to get them to replicate that since.