MDPE supply pipe fitting depth | Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board | Plumbers Forums
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Discuss MDPE supply pipe fitting depth in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

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K

Keilo

Hello,

I have an old lead common supply pipe which feeds my house first then a few other houses, from underneath my terraced house.

I have contacted UU as I wish to change this to a MDPE pipe, which is fine, and they will take me off the common supply line, so I have my own feed.

Now the master stop tap is in my front garden, and the lead pipe is buried deep underground, before it enters my house, then it pops up under my living room floor, and runs on top of the soil, 3 ft under my floor boards to the rear of my house.

Is this how I will need to lay the new blue 25mm pipe? or does the new pipe need to be buried 750mm all the way to the rear of my house? Because this seem like a lot of work, burying is underground under the floorboards?
My kitchen is at the back of the house, and was going to put the stop tap under the kitchen sink

is this what i should use?

Brass Compression Stop Cocks MDPE x Copper
10482.gif

any other help would be great

Thanks
 
Wecome to the forum, if you're a mid terrace house you have no altenative but to enter the property at the front, if it then runs under the floor boards it would need lagging, even if the old isn't. The trench would need to be 750mm deep outside and if you doing this work yourself it will need inspecting by local water company. It may make sense to get an aproved plumber to do the work.
 
Thanks for the reply. Im aware there's no alternative to enter the property, but I wasn't sure if the pipe had to be buried 750mm underground under my floorboards, the full length of the pipe as well as outside.
So when the pipe runs under my floorboards, what lagging should I use, standard black pipe insulation or is it best to use a rockwell foil type?
Also does the ducting just need to be around the pipe while its underground and through my footings until the pipe emerges above ground, or the full length of the pipe?
I have contact UU and they will come and inspect the work done before they carry out the switch over from their main supply.
 
The supply needs to be buried between 750mm and 1350mm until it enters the property. Once across the boundary you can follow the same route as the current supply, but as has been said, make sure it's well lagged with quality lagging, not the thin cheap stuff. I reckon the black rubbery stuff will be fine, just avoid that 10mm foam.


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Thanks and is the Brass stop tap above the best to use, or should I use a plastic one, that most places sell?
PLUPB262515.jpg
 
This one's got me thinking.

750mm down (fair enough).

Say you've a pipe from the road to the house, which will be moled through to the back of the house because that's where the old one went and that's where the kitchen is (with bathroom above) and house owner doesn't want the pipe going through the house. Does it have to be 750mm below the ground when going under the house (despite the 7500mm of house above the ground?
 
This one's got me thinking.

750mm down (fair enough).

Say you've a pipe from the road to the house, which will be moled through to the back of the house because that's where the old one went and that's where the kitchen is (with bathroom above) and house owner doesn't want the pipe going through the house. Does it have to be 750mm below the ground when going under the house (despite the 7500mm of house above the ground?

I'm pretty sure you wont get anyone to mole under the house DKIA, services, footings and no access unless most of the floor taken up.
 
you can get 25mm lagging but most places will only sell 22 or 28mm, it will need to be atleast 19mm thick. i may be better to convert to copper under the floor and use 22x19 lagging this will allow you to fit a standard 22mm stop tap also. Make sure the lagging is for external use.

if i had the choice i would go for the mdpe stop tap over the brass compression, the brass ones can pop off if you get water hammer on the pipework or if its fitted incorrectly. They are alot bigger tho.
 
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There are companies that will mole under houses etc. Most will use a directional mole this is hydraulic and uses a number of steel rods and pushes its way through the ground rather then a pnuematic soil displacement hammer you are probably thinking of.
Either way there can be problems if the kitchen floor is of concrete construction! It is more normal to enter the house at the nearest wall then run it internally either under the floor or surface run.
Another alternative may be to bring the new service into a grage or outside toilet then back feed to the kitchen etc. using existing pipework.
 
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