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Discuss Milwaukee pipe cutter. in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

Scott_D

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Anyone got one?
I used one today, it’s good for 28mm but is it worth the money?
 
I had one until recently. It was no advantage to me on installing pipework as I found it a bit fiddly to make accurate cuts with it. I just prefer a pipeslice for that. However when it comes to ripping out and sorting out scrap it was a godsend. Working in the trade school I do a heck of a lot of ripping out and decommissioning jobs. Being able to cut up loads of pipe for re-use or recycling quickly saved my wrists and does a good quick job.

Sadly mine has finally broken and I'd like a replacement for all my scrapping jobs again. I definitely had my money's worth out of it. Saved me a repetitive strain injury I reckon.
 
0000114_monument-size-2a-copper-pipe-cutter.jpeg
Still the best in the right hands IMHO, 15 to 42mm adjustment in seconds, certainly quicker than hunting for each slice, de-burring of each cut quickly (if you get it the habit). Far better control of the cut, I can take less than 5mm off if required, try doing that with your slices !!
& a spare blade in the end if required.
Why reinvent the wheel ?
 
0000114_monument-size-2a-copper-pipe-cutter.jpeg
Still the best in the right hands IMHO, 15 to 42mm adjustment in seconds, certainly quicker than hunting for each slice, de-burring of each cut quickly (if you get it the habit). Far better control of the cut, I can take less than 5mm off if required, try doing that with your slices !!
& a spare blade in the end if required.
Why reinvent the wheel ?
Do you honestly use that on 15mm?
 
Risks deforming the end of the pipe a bit though doesn't it? I have gotten pretty good at getting away with it. I find making the first turn as full and 'committed' as possible helps. And the older, thicker and less clean the pipe is the better. But 2mm off a new pieces of modern paper thin copper sounds likely to deform. Do you a trick up your sleeve Shaun?
And also you are sometimes restricted by the depth of the slice itself f cutting pipe in situ. Although with Chris' one you'd be restricted by it's turning circle for pipe in situ. Horses for courses. Prob good to have one of each floating round.
 
Risks deforming the end of the pipe a bit though doesn't it? I have gotten pretty good at getting away with it. I find making the first turn as full and 'committed' as possible helps. And the older, thicker and less clean the pipe is the better. But 2mm off a new pieces of modern paper thin copper sounds likely to deform. Do you a trick up your sleeve Shaun?
And also you are sometimes restricted by the depth of the slice itself f cutting pipe in situ. Although with Chris' one you'd be restricted by it's turning circle for pipe in situ. Horses for courses. Prob good to have one of each floating round.
The trick is gentle pressure, first on the blade until a groove / track is formed all the way round but also by applying it towards the longer side of the tube being cut with the palm of your hand, as you turn it around.
Like all these things it takes a bit of practice, I didn't want to show off so said 5mm but like Shaun if needed I can take 2mm off of new tube with ease :oops::rolleyes:.

PS. You need to keep the cleaned & oiled so they freely spin.
 
Risks deforming the end of the pipe a bit though doesn't it? I have gotten pretty good at getting away with it. I find making the first turn as full and 'committed' as possible helps. And the older, thicker and less clean the pipe is the better. But 2mm off a new pieces of modern paper thin copper sounds likely to deform. Do you a trick up your sleeve Shaun?
And also you are sometimes restricted by the depth of the slice itself f cutting pipe in situ. Although with Chris' one you'd be restricted by it's turning circle for pipe in situ. Horses for courses. Prob good to have one of each floating round.

Turn the pipe and not the tool
 
The trick is gentle pressure, first on the blade until a groove / track is formed all the way round but also by applying it towards the longer side of the tube being cut with the palm of your hand, as you turn it around.
Like all these things it takes a bit of practice, I didn't want to show off so said 5mm but like Shaun if needed I can take 2mm off of new tube with ease :oops::rolleyes:.

PS. You need to keep the cleaned & oiled so they freely spin.

Yes, exactly it's kind of hard to describe but that's it. When I need to do that I only hold and turn the bottom half of the slice towards the long end of the pipe, turn it slowly until the first "track" around is done then still go slow until cut through. It's possible to take only a couple of millimetres off that way.
 
Rothenberger pipe cutter is in my opinion the best adjustable cutter. The adjustment is done by a spin of the handle rather than a slow screw thread.
 
Totally agree Shaun, nothing worse than a 150mm length of pipe with 3 straight couplings on...:eek::oops:o_O:mad:

Or a 3” piece with a coupling on then into a tee
 

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