Motorised Valve setting manually

[Stants]

Hi I was hoping my old Central heating would go the distance as I'm in the process of a loft conversion and I am going to upgrade .. alas its packed up , the boiler still fires up but its on for a while then goes off ( this was xmas day by the way ) when I last had it going I had hot water but no heat ( and the boiler was making knocking noises when it got to temp … its been suggested to me that this is called kettling ?? ) I thought at the time it might be the motorised valve as its ancient …… it was mentioned to me that you can set the valve manually so its open all the time with Heating and hot water ( which is not a problem ) can you do this without draining down the system ..I just need it to work for another month or so before I renew the whole lot....its a Honeywell 3 port motorised valve

 

[heliotrope]

I would suggest that you check out the heating pump.
I don't think the three port is playing up.
The honey well three port cannot be set manually open
to run continuously.

 

[Stants]

I would suggest that you check out the heating pump.
I don't think the three port is playing up.
The honey well three port cannot be set manually open
to run continuously.

Hi im fairly sure the pump is still ok as you can hear it running I turned it up to its highest setting and you could hear the change in speed

 

[Riley]

Just because you hear it it doesn’t mean the impeller is turning.

 

[Aire]

Hi im fairly sure the pump is still ok as you can hear it running I turned it up to its highest setting and you could hear the change in speed

A quick test to check your pump is working is, get a flat head screwdriver, hold a towel under the pump body and when the pump is in operation, remove the bleed screw (there will be water), you will see (or should see) the impeller spinning, then without using too much force, stick the screwdriver head into the bleed hole and try stop the impeller spinning, a good healthy pump motor will spit the screwdriver back out, an aged knackered pump will stop spinning.

 

[kris]

If the head was a removable type then you could manually move the paddle to CH and HW , but if your not sure then best to get it looked at and fix as kettling n knocking noises isn't good for the system, sometimes knocking is a different sound and issue compared to kettling but with your system it has to be the 3 porter as you had hot water so pump ok ,

 

[Aire]

If the head was a removable type then you could manually move the paddle to CH and HW , but if your not sure then best to get it looked at and fix as kettling n knocking noises isn't good for the system, sometimes knocking is a different sound and issue compared to kettling but with your system it has to be the 3 porter as you had hot water so pump ok ,

Not always the case. Just because he's got hot water, doesn't mean his pump is ok. I've never had kettling or banging on a system due to the 3 port been at fault. It's possible his pump is on its last legs but just has enough life to circulate water round his cylinder coil, but once he switches to heating, the resistance is too great and the pump can't distribute the heat quick enough before boiler begins to kettle and shut down.

 

[chris watkins]

Put the 3 port into the mid-position using the little lever on the side of the silver head, it can be lifted up into a groove which will hold it there. Do this just after turning on both the heating & hot water on the programer & make sure both stats are up high.
Check the pipe work on each side of the valve to see if the heating "A" port is getting hot.
This should tell you if it is the pump or valve.

 

[Stants]

I would suggest that you check out the heating pump.
I don't think the three port is playing up.
The honey well three port cannot be set manually open
to run continuously.

Thanks

 

[Stants]

Just because you hear it it doesn’t mean the impeller is turning.

Thanks

 

[Stants]

A quick test to check your pump is working is, get a flat head screwdriver, hold a towel under the pump body and when the pump is in operation, remove the bleed screw (there will be water), you will see (or should see) the impeller spinning, then without using too much force, stick the screwdriver head into the bleed hole and try stop the impeller spinning, a good healthy pump motor will spit the screwdriver back out, an aged knackered pump will stop spinning.

Thanks

 

[Stants]

If the head was a removable type then you could manually move the paddle to CH and HW , but if your not sure then best to get it looked at and fix as kettling n knocking noises isn't good for the system, sometimes knocking is a different sound and issue compared to kettling but with your system it has to be the 3 porter as you had hot water so pump ok ,

Thanks

 

[Stants]

Not always the case. Just because he's got hot water, doesn't mean his pump is ok. I've never had kettling or banging on a system due to the 3 port been at fault. It's possible his pump is on its last legs but just has enough life to circulate water round his cylinder coil, but once he switches to heating, the resistance is too great and the pump can't distribute the heat quick enough before boiler begins to kettle and shut down.

Thanks

 

[Stants]

Put the 3 port into the mid-position using the little lever on the side of the silver head, it can be lifted up into a groove which will hold it there. Do this just after turning on both the heating & hot water on the programer & make sure both stats are up high.
Check the pipe work on each side of the valve to see if the heating "A" port is getting hot.
This should tell you if it is the pump or valve.

Thanks

 

[Stants]

Put the 3 port into the mid-position using the little lever on the side of the silver head, it can be lifted up into a groove which will hold it there. Do this just after turning on both the heating & hot water on the programer & make sure both stats are up high.
Check the pipe work on each side of the valve to see if the heating "A" port is getting hot.
This should tell you if it is the pump or valve.

Hi I just tried this the lever is very slack no resistance at all …. I put the boiler back on and after only a few minutes I could hear the noise starting again so I turned it back off as I mentioned in original post its a very old system im thinking its had its day ...I'm reluctant to start fault finding by changing parts as its going to be all completely changed soonish im getting hot water from the immersion when we need it and ive got some electric fires to see us through...I may post another question about the immersion

 

[Riley]

If it’s slack either the motor has pinged or its getting constant power

 

[Stants]

If it’s slack either the motor has pinged or its getting constant power

thanks ……

If it’s slack either the motor has pinged or its getting constant power

hi …… im thinking there,s a few issues wrong as I mentioned its very old and im changing it soonish ie re siting the boiler , unvented system etc … im getting hot water from the immersion do you think its a problem using that for a month or so ? until I upgrade

 

[Riley]

Your only problem with the immersion is cost

 

[Stants]

Your only problem with the immersion is cost

I may have to suffer that im not sure its worth trying to repair the Old system ..its too old ...thanks

 

[Ric2013]

Hi I just tried this the lever is very slack no resistance at all

So it's in Central Heating mode it seems. I.e. 'permanently powered'.

Turn the system off at the isolator. Turn your mains switch at your fusebox off if in doubt. The 3PV should now revert to Hot Water mode and you should feel firm spring pressure against the lever.

If not, then it isn't working. On most valves, you can take the actuator head off without draining and put the spindle into the half way between the two extremes position to allow both CH and HW at the same time, but you'll lose temperature control of the system. Still, if you want to run it under manual control, this might be the very thing.

 

[Stants]

So it's in Central Heating mode it seems. I.e. 'permanently powered'.

Turn the system off at the isolator. Turn your mains switch at your fusebox off if in doubt. The 3PV should now revert to Hot Water mode and you should feel firm spring pressure against the lever.

If not, then it isn't working. On most valves, you can take the actuator head off without draining and put the spindle into the half way between the two extremes position to allow both CH and HW at the same time, but you'll lose temperature control of the system. Still, if you want to run it under manual control, this might be the very thing.

Hi I turned it off like you said and the lever is ok now ie it returns it has resistance..... is that al I need to do ?

 

[Stants]

Hi I turned it off like you said and the lever is ok now ie it returns it has resistance... is that al I need to do ?

So it's in Central Heating mode it seems. I.e. 'permanently powered'.

Turn the system off at the isolator. Turn your mains switch at your fusebox off if in doubt. The 3PV should now revert to Hot Water mode and you should feel firm spring pressure against the lever.

If not, then it isn't working. On most valves, you can take the actuator head off without draining and put the spindle into the half way between the two extremes position to allow both CH and HW at the same time, but you'll lose temperature control of the system. Still, if you want to run it under manual control, this might be the very thing.

Just turned it back on again and lever has gone slack again

 

[Ric2013]

Sounds like the valve is working correctly but being told by the system to stick to central heating only mode - except that you say you have hot water! Without testing what signals it is receiving (i.e. which wires are powered up) it is hard to be certain though.

 

[Stants]

So it's in Central Heating mode it seems. I.e. 'permanently powered'.

Turn the system off at the isolator. Turn your mains switch at your fusebox off if in doubt. The 3PV should now revert to Hot Water mode and you should feel firm spring pressure against the lever.

If not, then it isn't working. On most valves, you can take the actuator head off without draining and put the spindle into the half way between the two extremes position to allow both CH and HW at the same time, but you'll lose temperature control of the system. Still, if you want to run it under manual control, this might be the very thing.

It does look like the valve has gone ( there may be other issues to ) so when you take the actuator off ( silver box ) what do you set it too ? And would it be ok to use it in this mode ( safe ) for about 6 weeks ?

 

[chris watkins]

It sounds like you have established that the valve is working or at least there is a route for circulation. As you have stated that the boiler starts making noises associated with no circulation when turned on we have to look at what else could cause this, the pump has been mentioned but you seem to think it is OK so next I would check for lack of water in the system I have had a couple over the years where the float valve in the F&E cistern gets stuck & water is lost from the system to a point where it affects circulation.
Please check that the system is full of water.