My hot water seems far too hot 🥵

D

Deleted member 120897

Greetings members of plumbersforums,

Firstly - long post alert

I’m struggling with my hot water currently - I’ve only mainly dealt with combi boilers, even then, not really had hot water too hot. Anyway I digress, my system is an open vented pre-lagged cylinder, S-plan, Myson 2 ports with a Myson cylinder stat. My hot water seems far too hot, I haven’t measured it recently, but when I did a wholeness back, I was getting 68/69 from being set at 60. I reduced it to 40, and was manageable, but still seemed hot. I’ve been been trying to “test” it today, and wife’s has said it’s gone worse. Here’s what has been done so far:

  • Replaced Myson with Honeywell temporary, still same issue (although couldn’t have wired it wrong)
  • 2port isn’t firing boiler by itself (that I know of)
  • Checked spindle on 2 port - is fine
  • Immersion heater isn’t on - checked and double checked
  • Checked lever on 2 port head - not fantastic resistance
  • 2 port comes on when I turn dial up on stat, and goes off when I turn it down
  • Noticed just now, cylinder stat no longer clicking
  • When I tested for continuity between orange and grey it brought pump on? But was my multimeter acting as a link?
  • Cylinder stat is making good contact, and worked fine for approx 9 years
  • Felt tank by stat, seems cold?
I have checked wiring from cylinder thermostat and is as follows:
  • Common from programmer goes to terminal 1
  • There’s a blue wire (assuming switch live?) in terminal 2
  • Nothing in terminal 3
I read it as 3 is call for heat? I asked elsewhere and told call is terminal 2? This is where I’m struggling - can anyone explain it better? Can anyone help me test this properly? Someone has mentioned stratification?

A thanks already in advance
 

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3 is hot water off eg 3 ports easy way to check set your multi meter to continuity

Probe on 1 turn the stat down 3 should beep / circuit and 2 open

Turn temp up 2 should beep / circuit 3 should be open

Where is the stat located in the tank and is touching the cylinder?
 
3 is hot water off eg 3 ports easy way to check set your multi meter to continuity

Probe on 1 turn the stat down 3 should beep / circuit and 2 open

Turn temp up 2 should beep / circuit 3 should be open

Where is the stat located in the tank and is touching the cylinder?
Many thanks for the prompt reply Shaun. Yes I’ve already tested that (I’ve got a book by John Reginald - that test is mentioned, although it states it’s to find the common wire?).

Tank is approx 1m high, and stat is about 250mm from base to centre. Yes, it’s touching copper on the cylinder. After it had been on, I could place my finger in a gap and it felt cold?
 
Common is live in eg terminal 1 -thanks

Stat is abit low 330mm is about right 2/3 down from top - ok, might try moving it. It has worked ok though for number of years?

When the heating is on the port valve isn’t passing correct? Hmm?
I haven’t tried the heating, as it’s 2 port and house is like a sauna (only built 2009/2010), so no need for it too be on.
 
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Ordered a new Myson actuator, surely it can only be this or cylinder stat keeping it fired up? I did try a different stat which made no difference.
 
Update - this hasn’t worked, although, I did probably need one, as when I removed the head again, a screw hole had snapped. Also not sure if it’s relevant, but I hear the boiler fire up, water is heated, then, say 10 mins later it’ll fire again? Could it be a thermistor?
 
It did do, I haven’t tried it yet, house is warm enough without it just now. Should I try it? If so, how long for, and do I need rads to heat up?
 
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I might have to wait until colder weather, wife and I already sweating, or do i need to do I to before then? The boiler seems to work ok, I had to replace the fan about 2 years ago due to excessive noise. The heating pump was also replaced, from a Wilo to a DAB evosta.
 
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Is the cylinder stat making good contact with the cylinder? Have you done any electrical testing?
Thanks, I did some a while ago, cylinder stat seems to be making good contact yes, it used to work ok, but it’s now set on 40 but feels a lot hotter, haven’t measured this, but I reckon it would burn without cold mixing.
 
If the system originally worked fine then the wiring should be correct. I'd get my multimeter out and do some checks. It's going to be something simple I'm sure.
I’ll be doing that again next, think it was ok though. Shaun has suggested cyl stat is too low, so need to try’s this as well. I did try a Honeywell cyl stat (which was smaller in length), and it seemed the same, so chucked it back in my van.
 
An S plan yes? When the cylinder stat is satisfied it should close the two port and shut down the boiler. Check that that is happening.
If the stat is too low down hotter water will be at the top of the cylinder.
Yes s plan, 2 port closes and shuts boiler off. Thank you
 
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