Need a plumber to do a quick attic ballcock job - Liverpool

[robbieh]

Hi. Hope its okay to sign up just to look for a plumber.

I have a dripping overflow - I've been in the attic and identified the problem as the valve not shutting off properly. I've bent the arm and it has slowed it but not stopped - I suspect its a perished washer or some such. I'm smart enough to work things out (just) but not confident enough to change it myself.

I'm after a few quotes for someone to come and fix it - should just be a quick 1/2hr job to one of you experts.

I'm in the dovecot area of liverpool.

cheers

Robbie.

 

[dontknowitall]

If you've an adjustable spanner and willing to give it a go we can give you instructions, and what to buy. It's a pretty simple job, even for a novice. When it's easy for a plumber (who's had practice) it can be done in about 10 minutes.

 

[robbieh]

If you've an adjustable spanner and willing to give it a go we can give you instructions, and what to buy. It's a pretty simple job, even for a novice. When it's easy for a plumber (who's had practice) it can be done in about 10 minutes.

Thats very kind of you mate - I'm willing to have a crack.

 

[dontknowitall]

Excellent!!

There might well be a youtube video as well.

You'll need:
Towel
Adjustable spanner
Pump pliers if you have them - don't buy them if you haven't though - not necessary but might make the job slightly easier
Part II ball valve
Float for ball valve
15mm fibre washer


1. Turn off water.
2. Press down valve to check no water coming out.
3. Put down under pipework if you're worried about water spillage (possibly 3-4 glasses worth)
4. Undo brass nut joining pipe to valve (might be chrome on a service valve)
5. Undo outside plastic nut.
6. Remove ball valve
7. Remove bits of fibre washer on pipe
8. Clean pipe as best you can (towel/kitchen roll, stanley knife, etc)
This cleaning is not totally necessary but does help you make a better leak free joint

9. Take off outside plastic nut from ball valve
10. Poke ball valve through side of tank
11. Put on plastic nut but don't tighten - just a few turns
12. Put fibre washer on service valve/pipe end
13. Tighten up brass nut about hand tight
14. Tighten up plastic nut by hand
15. Hold ball valve and tighten brass nut as best you can
16. Tighten up plastic valve
17. Tighten up brass nut without moving ball valve
18. Turn on water and hope it doesn't leak

The pump pliers will hold the ball valve better giving you less risk of a water seap/leak but it's perfectly possible using above method.


Please shout if you're unsure with anything!

 

[robbieh]

Doesnt sound too hard - I might give it a go. I'll buy the bits on the way home from work tomorrow. Thanks again for taking the time to type that up.

Meanwhile if anyone wants to give me a quote before I go and get the bits tomorrow (thur - 6pm), then I could be convinced to chicken out of doing it myself

 

[dontknowitall]

I usually charge £50-£60 (including bits).

 

[SimonG]

Excellent post from dontknowitall, the only thing I would add if there isn't a service valve is to add a 15mm isolation valve. If you get that onto the pipework leading to the tank first with the water off it means you can get the water turned back on downstairs and just isolate at the tank. Saves the legs from running up and down if you don't get it spot on first time.

 

[SimonG]

I usually charge £50-£60 (including bits).

Same here.

 

[helpsy]

£41 all in for me.

 

[dontknowitall]

£41 all in for me.

No wonder I'm quiet at the moment!

BUT - Good for you, Helpsy! I charged that sort of price last year but tried a higher price early this year and my earnings are up significantly for the same work rate.

 

[robbieh]

I was expecting between £40-60.

I have a couple of q's:

The ball valve in the tank is a lot longer than the Part II - does that matter? I shouldnt imagine coz the float will close it regardless, just thought I'd check.

If I was to get pump pliers, what exactly would I do with them?

cheers

 

[dontknowitall]

The ball valve should be fine.

The pump pliers would be used to hold the ball valve to stop it turning.

In my "instructions" I dwelt on the tightening of the nuts in a specific order and you can to this instead of using the pump pliers.

If you had Mecanno when young you'll find this job a doddle - honest!!

The worst bit is turning the water off and hoping the pipe doesn't dribble constantly (making you have to work quicker!) If this is the case, you can try opening the kitchen tap when the stop tap is off as the dribble will usually come out of that instead of the pipe upstairs. I digress ...!

 

[robbieh]

Ah, so the pliers are just to grip it? I get it.

 

[tamz]

Or you could just fit one of these


or these, depending on what ballvalve you have

 

[robbieh]

Wouldnt have a clue what to do with them mate

 

[wiggers]

If your still nervous about doin it give us a shout im in liverpool if you like!

 

[robbieh]

Done and dusted. It was a lot easier than I expected.

Thanks for all the help and offers of help, especially to dontknowitall - I wouldnt have even tackled it without your help and advice. I owe you a pint, cheers mate.

 

[Phil]

I'm glad you got it sorted, just make sure there's no slow drip from the fibe washer and the float is secured.

Personally I only ever change the whole ballvalve if its totally scaled up etc. I just split it and replace all the internal parts including split pin, will be good for another twenty years. Ballvalves are getting more and more expensive and its silly to keep of scrapping a decent valve just because the washer and seat are worn. Too many things are just chucked out these days when they can be easily repaired.

I do the same with toilet siphons, why carry 3 or 4 bulky siphons when you can carry a selection of diaphrams and a rubble sack and some rubber seals. I do have spare ones if really need them though.

 

[robbieh]

Cheers for the advice. I've popped up once or twice to check and will continue to do so for a few days, but all seems good so far. I was thinking of sticking a bit of plumbers mait around the connections, just as an extra layer of seal - is that advisable?

 

[wheeto]

... all seems good so far.

Cool!

I was thinking of sticking a bit of plumbers mait around the connections, just as an extra layer of seal - is that advisable?

No

 

[Puddle]

No just leave as is plumbers mate or anything else around the outside of the pipe joints will not do anything :49:

DKIA had everything you need to do covered,explained so well,I might have a go at changing mine later

Pleased you got all sorted

 

[robbieh]

Okay, I'll leave it as it is. Cheers fellas.

 

[dontknowitall]

Thanks for the appreciation Robbieh and, hoping not to sound patronising, well done!

Job's a goodun'!!!

 

[robbieh]

Sorry to bump this thread. Everything seemed to be okay, however yesterday I was running the hot kitchen tap when there was an almighty vibration that continued for a short while after switching the tap off. I narrowed it down to the hot water pipe by the cylinder, and it seems to vibrate under the floorboards too. It is so loud at first I thought it was a helicopter over the house. Now it happens everytime I run the hot tap. If I run the cold tap it will stop until I switch off the cold tap, and if I run the hot and cold tap at the same time, and switch the hot tap off first, then it will not happen.

I've done a bit of googling and I'm guessing its water hammer?? I tried switching off the mains, running the hot kitchen tap empty, then slowly opened the main supply again (not all the way though) while the hot tap was still open, and waited for the splutter to subside. But its still happening.

Any ideas? Could it have been my changing the ball valve that has caused it? If so why now, a few weeks later?

If its at all relevent, dynorod were in the street a few days ago as there were some blocked drains, and I'm pretty sure they, or someone, was also messing with the brick water supply building thingy (I'm sure you know exactly what I mean), as I saw a few men in there. (Its in my estate by a central grassy bit, fenced off).

Thanks in advance fellas.

(Sorry if I should have posted a new thread, I posted here in case it was relevant to the ball valve issue)

 

[leelister6]

When you changed the ballcock last time was it on the hot water supply tank or the smaller central heating tank? Sounds like the washer in the H/W tank is oscillating due to wear or a bit of crap in the seat.