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iamzod

I am currently attempting to replace a radiator at my girlfriends house, the problem i am having however is the radiator she has got is a used one with the valves still fitted. Problem is the lockshield in on the bottom left whilst the other valve is in the top right.

I need them both at the bottom but i can't get the part that the old valve connected to out of the rad, nor can i get the bleed valve out of the bottom, it won't turn even in the slightest.

Any ideas?
 
I am currently attempting to replace a radiator at my girlfriends house, the problem i am having however is the radiator she has got is a used one with the valves still fitted. Problem is the lockshield in on the bottom left whilst the other valve is in the top right.

I need them both at the bottom but i can't get the part that the old valve connected to out of the rad, nor can i get the bleed valve out of the bottom, it won't turn even in the slightest.

Any ideas?
if you cant move them the only real option is heat which will discolur the rad and will have to repaint it
other than tha it cut it out with a hacksaw blade down the rad tail
 
I would recomend that you spray it with WD40 and leave to rest for about half hour to an hour, otherwise its a new rad my friend.
 
try "crack it" spray. Once sprayed on this freezes to minus 40, thus cracking the seal. then just unscrew as usual. you may need to spary a few times if the seal is solid. 8 out of ten times it works. in the unllikely event it does not work new rad matey
 
You can buy "crack-it" spray (or something very similar) at Halfords.
It's used in car maintenance for "cracking" those difficult parts that are rusted and will not unscrew.
 
If we sort the problem out for you,, do we get the same fringe benefits you are likely to receive from your girlfriend for doing so???

Just wondered.
 
The Halfords Spray is called "Shock and Unlock".
It contains penetrating fluids and a freezing agent.
£3.99 from Halfords.
Worth a try ... It does work on frozen screwed joints.

Cheers.
Johnsco
 
Have you tried a Stillson? Will trash the old tails but will get it out. Is it a 3/4" dome end tail or a 15mm tail?

If it is on the right side, why not fit it as is with the inlet at the top? - they are more efficient like this.

Are you sure the bleed valve is at the bottom? Doesn't make sense as the air goes to the top of a rad.
 
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why not try a rad tail removal key wassitcalled? you know , the tool for removing rad tails?
or try a cold chisel just the right size to fit into the rad tail and try turning that with an adjustable or a foot print or something.
and some crack that spray.
 
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