Need to change a 3 port mid position acl lifestyle valve

[Alrite-geezer]

Basically, the hw is on but no ch... Tried manually moving the lever to mid position but it's stuck fast!! Iv checked the voltage of the wiring and it's got full power so it's definatly not the motor.. Think the valve has completely seized. Going to change the valve it's an ACL 679H34030L0. I have a fairly new honeywell V4073a1039 sundial y plan valve that I took out of a system last year... Would this be a suitable replacement??

 

[erpkid]

Honeywell for me every time - even if the existing is fixable. Don't skimp on the nuts remove the old ones using an olive splitter or hacksaw to free the olives. Also consider once isolated snipping the old cable at the valve and wiring via a small junction box or 5 point plug as this will save messing with the junction box.

 

[Alrite-geezer]

Yeah, the valve is right at the back under the cylinder, facing the stub wall... It's Gunna be an absolute nightmare to change, just hoping there's no size difference between the 2 as this will cause me big problems

 

[erpkid]

There should be little size difference. If you do have to move a pipe a bit try and avoid the one that goes to the tank coil as on older tanks the copper in this area can be fragile. The reason for the nut change is even if the dimensions are the same and the thread on the nuts identical the olive could have grabbed at a different point on the pipe and will have work hardened so could have a gap that would be near to impossible in a difficult location to nip up. If very tight in removal and you can protect flammable surface a little gentle heat from your gas torch will help.

 

[Alrite-geezer]

Yeah I see what your saying, it will be so awkward to cut the olives off, but peace of mind it will have to be done.... Looking at it, If any pipes gotta move it will be the flow from the motor

 

[lame plumber]

first thing to check whether to acctuator or valve is seized, if its the acctuator just swap the head, why go to the trouble of a drain down if you havent checked if the valve is working

 

[Alrite-geezer]

Well I checked all the voltages to the motor and it's all fine, so there's no electrical problem... And the manual lever is stuck fast. Well I'm gonna do the job tonight when I get home, so il post back and let you know how it goes... Il try get a picture uploaded so you can see what I'm up against! Thanks for your help guys

 

[Alrite-geezer]

Right the valve is in and wired up to a 5 connection plug but the boiler won't fire up now, I filled the system... Followed the instructions on the Honeywell site but still can get it to fire... Any ideas?

 

[Alrite-geezer]

Cant*

 

[tweakyboy]

Stupid question but are room stat/cylinder stat calling for heat?

 

[Alrite-geezer]

Yeah I set both to max (not at same time) still nothing... Pump is working, power to the programmer etc, could it be air lock?

 

[tweakyboy]

Is the pump wired from the boiler or from the junction box? Normally if your pump is working when taken from the junction box your boiler should fire. Check in your junction box and see if the pump is taken from the orange cable from the 3 port valve and do you have 240v to boiler?

 

[Alrite-geezer]

It's wired from the junction on orange, just checked the connections... Everything is ok, boiler has power...

 

[tweakyboy]

You say the boiler has power but do you have 240v on that orange cable? You can eliminate a valve/stat fault if you have 240v on that orange cable when you have a call for heat.

 

[Alrite-geezer]

Just checked now and I have 230 to the orange

 

[Alrite-geezer]

Running out of ideas now to be honest, iv checked with my meter... Everything has voltage, double checked the wiring.... Cross checked it against the wiring diagrams... System is filled, rads have been bled... Boiler is on just not igniting! Oh and I'm very cold!! Ha!

 

[dave1]

What boiler is it?

 

[Sid Viscous]

240v on the white from the valve when c/h calls for heat?
If yes & boiler still not firing, double & triple check for loose connections:- ISOLATE 1ST, obviously

 

[tweakyboy]

Well if you have 240v on the orange you have power going to the s/l on the boiler telling it to fire. The boiler hasn't locked out has it, tried pressing the reset button?

 

[Alrite-geezer]

It's an ideal classic lxff, there power on the white when calling for heat, just about to check the connections now, cant see a reset.... But I did try and light using the instruction given on the panel

 

[tweakyboy]

[DLMURL]http://www.idealheating.com/downloads/manuals/111498-6.pdf[/DLMURL] Page 4 bottom left, it shows you where the reset button is. Check that first. The boiler could have fired up see and it had air in the boiler which caused it to over heat triggering the over heat stat.

 

[Alrite-geezer]

I see the reset button, but it won't push in...

 

[tweakyboy]

Is the reset button sticking out and wont push in or just flush? Do you know if the boiler did fire up for a short period?

 

[Alrite-geezer]

I'd just like to say a big thank you for all the help everyone has given... I'm calling it a night now. I'm really thinking it could be a boiler problem now...

 

[tweakyboy]

Look at it with a fresh head in the morning!