No hot water.

[Fredrico84]

Hi guys

I was wondering If someone could give me some advice on this situation which got me alittle bit stuck.

the problem is that my customer is not getting hot water when turning on the tap, not even when the programmer is on heating & hot water. only when programmer is on heating is when boiler start working. I'm thinking its the 3 port valve next to the hot water storage cylinder that's faulty but I need to make 100% sure before draining down the whole system and change it.

any question regarding to this situation please ask me.

 

[Puddle]

You have to start to learn how to use a standard multi meter to check system wiring and circuits, other wise you are changing parts willy nilly,sounds like your hot water circuit is not working, could be power from programmer, cylinder thermostat, or motorised valve, could be a broken cable, a faulty micro switch, all very easily tested and checked
Just seen you say when you turn on tap,is it a combi,what make,model you need to do correct tests,parts are two expensive just to replace on a thought

imho

 

[newbie1]

i see from a previous post you worked for a plumbing company for 4 and half years what sort of work were you doing

 

[Mbear]

As above has stated u need to test the circuit at certain points to see how far the voltage is gettin through the circuit(programmer/stat/valve).If the 3port valve is goosed then try and find a replacement head/actuator and just replace that rather than draining it all down to change the entire valve. Most valves are changeable for example, newer acl's, dimpled honeywells, myson's, sunvic's & danfoss's can all be changed(head only). This saves time and obviously

 

[Fredrico84]

You have to start to learn how to use a standard multi meter to check system wiring and circuits, other wise you are changing parts willy nilly,sounds like your hot water circuit is not working, could be power from programmer, cylinder thermostat, or motorised valve, could be a broken cable, a faulty micro switch, all very easily tested and checked
Just seen you say when you turn on tap,is it a combi,what make,model you need to do correct tests,parts are two expensive just to replace on a thought

imho

Firstly thanks for the reply. As I have never done any electrical test I don't carry any electrical testing kit. So I might just tell my client to get a plumber who is familiar with these tests.

i see from a previous post you worked for a plumbing company for 4 and half years what sort of work were you doing

I've done mostly Installing new systems and repair on anything other than electrical problem. Ofcours I'm far from perfect hence I'm here asking for advice or even to see If I'm capable of doing the job or not.

As above has stated u need to test the circuit at certain points to see how far the voltage is gettin through the circuit(programmer/stat/valve).If the 3port valve is goosed then try and find a replacement head/actuator and just replace that rather than draining it all down to change the entire valve. Most valves are changeable for example, newer acl's, dimpled honeywells, myson's, sunvic's & danfoss's can all be changed(head only). This saves time and obviously

Thanks for advice. As I said I don't have any Electrical testing kit as I always like to stay away from electrical problems. Do you think I should just try change the head on the valve? its honeywells, so it is possible.


Again thanks alot guys.

 

[Mbear]

Firstly thanks for the reply. As I have never done any electrical test I don't carry any electrical testing kit. So I might just tell my client to get a plumber who is familiar with these tests.



I've done mostly Installing new systems and repair on anything other than electrical problem. Ofcours I'm far from perfect hence I'm here asking for advice or even to see If I'm capable of doing the job or not.





Thanks for advice. As I said I don't have any Electrical testing kit as I always like to stay away from electrical problems. Do you think I should just try change the head on the valve? its honeywells, so it is possible.


Again thanks alot guys.

aslong as the honeywell valve head has a small dimple on the top metal casing then it is a changeable head( no dimple means the entire valve needs to be changed).I suppose u could try it, it just means youll be wasting money on the valve if it's working ok and something else is at fault but that's the chance u take by not fault finding properly mate

 

[mrlennie]

I am interested puddle how could it be the cylinder thermostat? Is this linked into the motorised valve by the programmer?

 

[weeman]

it'll be linked from the programmer to the boiler so if its not calling for heat when it should be the boiler won't fire, simple electrical tests would show this

 

[mrlennie]

Thanks for the reply weeman! Is it the same thermostat situated above the immersion heater (if it has one)?

 

[Mbear]

I am interested puddle how could it be the cylinder thermostat? Is this linked into the motorised valve by the programmer?

They are wired in series...

Spur, programmer, stat (hw or ch), zone valve and lastly the boiler&pump.

If any control is goosed then u can trace voltage and find where it is stopping. Where it's stopping is usually the faulty control. It's a bit more complex than that when it comes to the zone valve but u get the jist of it

 

[weeman]

the cylinder stat should be approx one third of the way up from the bottom of the cylinder,

 

[Fredrico84]

aslong as the honeywell valve head has a small dimple on the top metal casing then it is a changeable head( no dimple means the entire valve needs to be changed).I suppose u could try it, it just means youll be wasting money on the valve if it's working ok and something else is at fault but that's the chance u take by not fault finding properly mate

I could always return it back If I didn't need it right?

 

[weeman]

i would check the position of the valve first using the lever on the side of the actuator if you can move it across with no resistance then its stuck in CH and possibly a faulty actuator, if there is resistance then it is in the HW position and more likely a faulty clock or stat but this isn't a definate just a bit better than guessing!!

 

[Bernie2]

Returns!

Err! Some things merchants may not accept as a return. Try taking a PCB back. Some will charge you a handling charge as well if they do take it back.

The thing is of course is learn to use a multi meter. Its simple really and lots of basic tests can be done with the power switched off. In point for some you must have the power switched off.

You can Google for info, but if you can't understand the info or don't have a bit of electrical experience, many colleges run short courses on fault finding, which may include using a multi meter. They are very useful tools.

 

[Fredrico84]

Returns!

Err! Some things merchants may not accept as a return. Try taking a PCB back. Some will charge you a handling charge as well if they do take it back.

The thing is of course is learn to use a multi meter. Its simple really and lots of basic tests can be done with the power switched off. In point for some you must have the power switched off.

You can Google for info, but if you can't understand the info or don't have a bit of electrical experience, many colleges run short courses on fault finding, which may include using a multi meter. They are very useful tools.

hey thanks alot for the top advice mate! I might actually looking into the short courses just to get familiar with electrical works.