Noise when running hot water from kitchen mixer tap | Bathroom Advice | Plumbers Forums

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Since July I have had noise coming from downstairs hot water mixer tap when running, it stops while water running, but when turned off starts again. Don't tell me to call a plumber I have had one out twice, new ball valve fitted and water pressure reduced £76.50 a visit and the problem hasn't been solved. Plumber is the one I use for my central heating maintenance. i don't want to call them out again and be charged another £76.50.
 
What sort of noise and is it coming directly from the tap? Guessing you have a low pressure hot water system as you've mentioned a ballvalve. Usually sounds when hot water is run is caused by the cold water storage cistern that feeds the hot water cylinder. Have a feel of the cold main pipework feeding the cistern, is it loose? A mixture of too much pressure and unsupported pipework can cause some odd sounds.

You say they reduced your pressure, how did they do this? A lot of people think that throttling back isolation valves reduces pressure, it doesn't, it reduces flow. If high pressure is the cause, the only way to reduce it is by fitting a pressure reducing valve.
 
Since July I have had noise coming from downstairs hot water mixer tap when running, it stops while water running, but when turned off starts again. Don't tell me to call a plumber I have had one out twice, new ball valve fitted and water pressure reduced £76.50 a visit and the problem hasn't been solved. Plumber is the one I use for my central heating maintenance. i don't want to call them out again and be charged another £76.50.
Why would you pay him again, he did not fix it last time, why did/do you not ask him to come back & fix what he was paid to do in the first place ? If you use him for other work you could suggest that future work for him might be at risk if he does not ?
Otherwise get a proper plumber (not someone who maintains your heating), sorry but with out being on site it is not possible to investigate further.
 
Thank you for your reply. The noise is like a ships fog horn, it is coming from the loft area. It actually happens when any hot water tap in the house or the washing machine is running. He was in two minutes and turned the water pressure down by the stopcock in the kitchen.
 
I didn't realise I had to pay him the first time as I initially mentioned it when they came to do the boiler service in July. The noise had started a couple of days prior to the annual service. I have been told the Heating System does not include the hot water. What do I know! The firm is listed as Plumber and Heating Engineer.
 
Thank you for your reply. The noise is like a ships fog horn, it is coming from the loft area. It actually happens when any hot water tap in the house or the washing machine is running. He was in two minutes and turned the water pressure down by the stopcock in the kitchen.
As I thought, partially closing the stop tap does not reduce pressure, it reduces flow! The fog horn sound is usually a worn ball valve, check they have replaced the correct ballvalve. If you have a conventional system, you should have two storage cisterns in the loft. Check there is a new ballvalve in the bigger of the two cisterns.
 
I really think they have done questionable work:

1) charge you £76 to fit the WRONG ball valve . ..

2) charge you £76 to turn down a stopcock (this is amazing!)

Always, always, always - get a specialised plumber in to do work like this . . . .
 
Agree with Ricky and avatar that the work done is questionable, would not have payed them for the 2nd return as they did not fix the job they were payed for on the 1st visit. As to the noise I suggest getting a part2 high pressure ball valve fitted and maybe a pressure reducing valve if this does not work. Possibly may need to clip pipe on feed to ball valve if pipe work loose, wouldn't do any harm. Let us know how you get on
 
Since July I have had noise coming from downstairs hot water mixer tap when running, it stops while water running, but when turned off starts again. Don't tell me to call a plumber I have had one out twice, new ball valve fitted and water pressure reduced £76.50 a visit and the problem hasn't been solved. Plumber is the one I use for my central heating maintenance. i don't want to call them out again and be charged another £76.50.

Bloomin heck did he were a tricorn hat, pair of flintlocks and the van reg black bess 1. :cowboy:
Did he actually change the ballvalve in the loft. A competent tradesman with pride will guarantee there work, get him back to sort it out. Hes had your money, the problem should be resolved.

I have had a few of these were I have either fitted a new part 2 in conjunction with a prv and its done the trick. However on a few occasions i have found that weighing the float arm stopped it bouncing up an down when filling,causing little back pressure waves and associated noise

Perhaps if you let us know were you are one of the forum members in your area might be able to help you. :yes:
 
Clamp the pipe in the loft, then it will stop. to prove it get someone in loft to let some water into tank and hold the pipe when it starts to vibrate. it will stop proving you need the pipe clamped, works every time. get him who got paid to come back and bring some wood a few screws and a couple of pipe clips. AT NO CHARGE.
 
Thanks for that. he is sending someone on Tuesday am. I had to ring twice some young lad answered and spoke to someone the first time I suspect the owner and said they would ring me back and didn't I had to ring again later that day. Feel that there is no interest in solving the problem. Said they were busy with heating call outs. If there is anyone in the Merseyside area who could solve the problem I would be interested in hearing from them.
 
I have just had a phone calll from the Company to inform me that the part they need to fit will cost me £190. Will this be a PRV then? I said "what if this doesn't work" he said I would not have to pay for it if it didn't. The reason I am being told the problem has occurred is because the Water Company has increased the pressure in the area. Although non of my neighbours have complained although they might have more up to date boilers then I. Mine is 8 years old and is a normal boiler with a hot water tank. There was a water main burst in my area twice (at least 3 miles away) and the water company have worked at replalcing the mains. The work was completed recently having been in progress 18 months or so. Although the noise started in July perhaps that is when they connected everything. Any thoughts apprecuated,
 
I presume the valve to fitted is a pressure reducing valve, probably down to about 3 bar which should be ok. I fitted one for someone and the total cost was about £90 so they are having a bit of a laugh i think. But it does sound as if that could solve the problem for you. Although I believe it is showing up a problem with unsupported pipe anyway. If that can be cured, you can prove it by having someone cause the noise while you get ready to support the pipe by hand, where it is vibrating prob in the loft.If it stops it would be cheaper than the prv to support the pipe. Check your water flow rate on outside tap it is probable about 25liters a min which is great. If it is a lot more then fit a prv.
 
£190 for fitting a PRV?????? When you've picked yourself up off the floor think about your next move. He's already over-charged you for a job which he's not managed to complete to an acceptable standard, and now he's over-charging for putting the job right - HIS JOB!!!!! You are now armed with the knowledge to negotiate a fair price for what is a relatively straightforward job. The accumulative bill, once he's put it right will be through the roof once he's done. Try to reach a compromise on the cost - he's already charged you a lot of money for "work" already carried out, so ask to have some money knocked off. His profit margins are probably massive, judging by what I've read thus far, so there is room for movement on his part. If he won't budge, you may want to consider taking the hit and getting a more reputable, reasonable tradesmen in (who will charge a realistic price). As Peter quite rightly pointed out, around £90 is a more realistic figure, roughly the same as I'd charge. Either that, or I'm massively under-charging!!!!!!
 
Thank you for your replies. I will now update you. I cancelled the visit due last Wednesday told him I was going to get someone else. Went to the local Trading Standards (TASK) for their recommended Plumbers. On Friday a plumber came out went into the loft and reduced the length of a pipe by about 1.5 inches. At least I think that is what he did. He stayed with me for 45 minutes so the tank would fill a couple of times. He did not charge me anything but said to text him if the problem occurred again. So far it is Sunday and there is no problem.
I have still not paid the money for the Ball Valve to the original plumber but I will send payment with a letter saying what has happened. When my boiler service is due next July I will be using someone recommended through TASK The sad thing about this is that the original owner of this business, and he still runs the office sometimes, went to school with my late brother that is why I gave him the business originally.

Thank you everyone for your help I can now have a quiet Christmas. Best wishes to you all.
 

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