Noisy rads

[Glasuni03]

Hi All,

New to this forum and would appreciate advice.
Had a new Worcester Bosch Boiler Installed last year (open vent system) and system flushed. New Grundfos Alpha pump installed in cupboard upstairs (energy saver one installed). Ever since then the radiators upstairs ping, knock like sound and occasional bang at the side of the TRV on rad in one bedroom. Have had British gas out twice and they say that it is just expansion which I really dont know if it is? Why only upstairs Rads that do this and even when the TRV's are closed on the rads they still make loud noises? Rads cold yet still ping? oh and when the hot water is also on itself with heating you can hear the rads sound like they are filling with water?

I have bled the rads but no air is coming out just water? so don't think it is air in the system. I am really at my wits end with this and dont want to buy new rads idf it wont deal with the problem.

If there are any professionals out their that have come across a similar problem and the solution I would be very very grateful

Thank you

 

[Rickster123]

Do you have trvs fitted on every radiator?

 

[Glasuni03]

Hi No TRV on the radiator in the downstairs hall?
Thanks

 

[Rickster123]

Were the trvs fitted at the same time as the new boiler etc?

 

[Glasuni03]

yes - exactly the same time. What I also forgot to say was that when the hot water and GCH are on at the same time the rads get hot at the top but stone cold at the bottom?

 

[Rickster123]

I'd say your system needs balancing up correctly. Croppie has a pre made post on this. I'll give him a nudge. He'll be along shortly.

 

[Glasuni03]

British Gas balanced it once and checked it on the second ocassion? why all the knocking/ping noises? only upstairs rads too

 

[Rickster123]

British Gas balanced it once and checked it on the second ocassion? why all the knocking/ping noises? only upstairs rads too

Im sure they did but they probably need balancing correctly.

 

[Dotty]

British Gas balanced it once and checked it on the second ocassion? why all the knocking/ping noises? only upstairs rads too

Expansion. The rads are moving slightly on their brackets.

How To Balance Radiators Tool List:

Radiator-bleeding key Lockshield valve adjuster or adjustable spanner Screwdriver Digital thermometer or multimeter with thermometer function

1. Make sure all the radiators have been bled. Turn off the central heating and allow the radiators to cool.

2. Familiarise yourself with the valves. The lockshield will usually have a push-on cap or one that is secured with a screw through the top. Remove it.

3. Older models will have a wheelhead valve on the other side —used to turn the radiator on/off.

4. Newer radiators will have a thermostatic valve instead of a wheelhead valve.

5. Open up the valves on all the radiators in the house by turning them anti-clockwise.Wheelhead and thermostatic valves can be turned easily by hand, but the lockshield will need a plastic adjuster to open it up. These come with new lockshield valves. A spanner will also do the job.

6. Turn the central heating back on and note down the order the radiators heat up. Those nearest the boiler normally get hot first. If you’ve got a lot of radiators, get assistance. Turn the heating off and wait while the radiators cool down.

7. When the radiators are cool, switch the heating back on and go to the first radiator on your list. Turn the lockshield valve clockwise until it is closed and then open it by a quarter of a turn. Once the radiator has warmed up, take a temperature reading at the pipework leading to one of the valves.

8. Now take a temperature reading at the pipework leading to the other valve and open the lockshield valve gradually until there’s a 12°C difference between now and the reading you took in step 7 (allow a couple of minutes after each adjustment for the temperature to change). The temperature figures indicated in the last step and this one are relevant to the radiator shown – don’t take them as any kind of optimum figure – it’s the 12°C difference in temperature at the valves that counts. Next, check the rest of the radiators in the system following the order in the list. The further you move away from the boiler, you’ll find the lockshield valve will have to be opened more. The last radiator may need to have the lockshield valve fully open to work at full efficiency. Your radiators are now balanced and should work perfectly.

Getting A Temperature

A key part of this job is measuring the temperature difference across each radiator. Specially designed thermometers that strap round the pipes at either end of the radiator are available to buy or hire, but it’s not really necessary to use these. You can get away with a single digital thermometer — it just means that you can’t take simultaneous readings and you’ll have to move from one end of the radiator to the other.

Digital thermometers are available from around £10. Alternatively, some digital multimeters have a temperature sensor function. A digital multimeter with temperature function costs from £25 and can also be used for taking electrical readings and checking continuity in wires, among dozens of other functions.

 

[Glasuni03]

Thanks. Why does the rads gurgle with water when only hot water on? Also why does only the top of the rad get warm when both GCH and hot water on?

 

[SafeGasInstall]

posible blockage on the cold feed

 

[mutley racers]

Expansion. The rads are moving slightly on their brackets.

How To Balance Radiators Tool List:

Radiator-bleeding key Lockshield valve adjuster or adjustable spanner Screwdriver Digital thermometer or multimeter with thermometer function

1. Make sure all the radiators have been bled. Turn off the central heating and allow the radiators to cool.

2. Familiarise yourself with the valves. The lockshield will usually have a push-on cap or one that is secured with a screw through the top. Remove it.

3. Older models will have a wheelhead valve on the other side —used to turn the radiator on/off.

4. Newer radiators will have a thermostatic valve instead of a wheelhead valve.

5. Open up the valves on all the radiators in the house by turning them anti-clockwise.Wheelhead and thermostatic valves can be turned easily by hand, but the lockshield will need a plastic adjuster to open it up. These come with new lockshield valves. A spanner will also do the job.

6. Turn the central heating back on and note down the order the radiators heat up. Those nearest the boiler normally get hot first. If you’ve got a lot of radiators, get assistance. Turn the heating off and wait while the radiators cool down.

7. When the radiators are cool, switch the heating back on and go to the first radiator on your list. Turn the lockshield valve clockwise until it is closed and then open it by a quarter of a turn. Once the radiator has warmed up, take a temperature reading at the pipework leading to one of the valves.

8. Now take a temperature reading at the pipework leading to the other valve and open the lockshield valve gradually until there’s a 12°C difference between now and the reading you took in step 7 (allow a couple of minutes after each adjustment for the temperature to change). The temperature figures indicated in the last step and this one are relevant to the radiator shown – don’t take them as any kind of optimum figure – it’s the 12°C difference in temperature at the valves that counts. Next, check the rest of the radiators in the system following the order in the list. The further you move away from the boiler, you’ll find the lockshield valve will have to be opened more. The last radiator may need to have the lockshield valve fully open to work at full efficiency. Your radiators are now balanced and should work perfectly.

Getting A Temperature

A key part of this job is measuring the temperature difference across each radiator. Specially designed thermometers that strap round the pipes at either end of the radiator are available to buy or hire, but it’s not really necessary to use these. You can get away with a single digital thermometer — it just means that you can’t take simultaneous readings and you’ll have to move from one end of the radiator to the other.

Digital thermometers are available from around £10. Alternatively, some digital multimeters have a temperature sensor function. A digital multimeter with temperature function costs from £25 and can also be used for taking electrical readings and checking continuity in wires, among dozens of other functions.

When you have 2 or more heating zones, do you balance each zone separately or all on at same time?

 

[SafeGasInstall]

i will go first together operate along with hw on too